Help a noob with under cabinet led products

I’ve searched and can’t seem to find any definitive info regarding:

The brightest led strips (has to have warm white…WAF)
One power supply to control all lights under the cabinets
Wired to a switch (required for wife) that will be specifically installed for these lights

The kicker? There are 3 seconds of cabinets. One section then a break for stove hood to a long section, then a break for the window above the sink.

Im redoing my backsplash so itll be easy to add the switch, but ive got no clue on proven products. Has anyone wired this type of lighting to a switch?

Fibaro rgbw controller? Solid app written for this?

What led strip sould I get and what power supply would provide enough power? Rough length of cabinet lighting will be 12ft not including the breaks for appliances/window.
Extension cable for said LED strip?

The biggest concern is the light switch requirement.

The “switch” requirement could be handled a number of different ways. You could put in a z-wave or zigbee switch that isn’t connected to any load… it just turns itself on or off. Then set this up as a master switch that turns on/off the LEDs when it’s turn on or off (Smart Lighting app can do this).

Or you can use a remote such as the AEON minimote. I think I’d probably do that myself. In theory if they are dimmable you could set the Minimote to use the 4 buttons to do preset dim levels like:

1 = off
2 = 33%
3 = 66%
4 = 100%

I have a minimote that I use to open/close my garage doors as well as setup my alarm. I put a bit of velcro on it and just mounted it inside a cabinet door in the kitchen. Hidden, but easily accessible, and with the velcro I can pull it down when I need to charge it.

Well, since you’re wiring in a switch, why not wire in some outlets too?

You can put one beneath each set of cabinets, either up high on the wall or on the bottom of the cabinet. If there is room in the cabinets you could put the outlet box in the bottom of the cabinet.

Another option would be to put the outlets above the cabinets, if there is room.

This way you can experiment. And, if something dies then you aren’t stuck running me wires, just plug and play.

There are already plugs under each set of cabinets, so theres no need to add any. I dont like to see wires, so plugging the controller into a outlet and seeing the wire run up to the cabinet base is the last resort, but may be necessary in case of failure, Id hate to rip everything out just to get to the wiring.

This interests me as it would require less wiring and fishing the walls. Ultimately just getting “line” power to the switch, right? What light strand and controller would best fit my requirements in my OP, for this to work? If I go this route, where would the controller go? In an outlet box and the lights would be plugged into that outlet, I assume?

Id rather not use a remote as I have kids and it would be sat down somewhere and they’d lose it, for sure.

Parts list:
GE toggle switch (wired to line)
controller that’ll handle the distance in OP AND connect to GE toggle switch (Z Wave)
brightest RGBW light strips
…construction items for gang boxes, etc.

So my plan has a deadline of this weekend. Needing to order ASAP.

I have in my Amazon cart, the following:
Fibaro RGBW controller
Supernight12v 5050 RGBWW
LEDNET RGBW extension cable
GE 12727 toggle switch

Will this all work for what Im wanting to achieve?

Take a look at these. It will help your install look better and the lighting looks more even.

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Would you recommend these over the shallow channels? And does my “shopping cart” cover everything Id need?

I dont want to buy the strips if theyre not BRIGHT. the wife wants light, not just accent lighting has very bright American Lighting LED Rope/Tape Hybrid Lights for only $3-22 (up to 45 feet) on sale today only. Plug it into a dimmer outlet and this is probably the least expensive solution.

I bought these lights, as well as some that are 3000k, along with these adapters.

When I built my house I had outlets wired in above my cabinets and ran from a switch. I also had lights wired in beneath the cabinets on a separate switch.

What I’ve done is, using the light channels, I built my own lamps. I built a set of the 2700k for accent lighting above and below the cabinets. The wires from the underneath lights runs discreetly up the inside corner of the cabinets, connects to the light above and plugs in the wall.

I built a second set of lights using the 3000k fit under cabinet work lighting. These took the place of the halogen lamps that were installed by the builder.

As for brightness…
The 2700k led’s required a total of 6 led’s on top and 9 on the bottom. They are a warm white and give a good glow. You can still work with them without turning in the others. They are great for looks and for getting a drink.

The 3000k are a more white light. I used a total of 15 led’s to make the very bright work lights on the bottom.

These rolls are able to be cut into 3 led sections. So, when I say I used 9 led’s, that’s means three sections. Also, I used telephone wire to connect between all of these. I cut them into sections to spread the light more evenly, and the diffuser helps as well.

If it’s not bright enough, just add more led’s. But these are very bright.

I used Wemo light switches to control everything. I am changing these over to GE toggle switches, I just haven’t done it yet.

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Thanks for the info. I went ahead and completed my order to Amazon.

I chose to go a different route than you with the LED strands, solely for the RGBWW capability. The kids will love it and eventually the wife will too.

Now, onto the wiring.
I will place the GE switch in a “remodel” gang box, on an interior wall (no insulation, easier to fish) that is almost directly above the circuit breaker panel. I do plan on connecting to existing wiring for the kitchen to feed the GE switch the “line” power.

My question is, configuration of the device type and smart app/ virtual switch combo. What is needed for Fibaro to be triggered by the “line only” GE switch. This is the most crucial step for me. If this doesnt work, WAF goes WAY down. and I just wasted money on the kitchen.

That part I can’t help you with. I’ve never used that device.

Just stash the forum, I’m sure something will answer your question.

Also, run a 4 wire romex. You need that neutral line.

The wiring will only be used for the sole purpose of powering the Z Wave/controller in the switch itself. There will be no load on the switch. Do I still need a 4 wire romex?

Hmmmmmm, I honestly don’t know.

An advice for you just in case. I would run that wire from the GE switch to the Fabio strip lights. With your current setup. No internet equal no light control. Wife won’t like that for sure.

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I didn’t see, maybe I missed it but did you get a 110V AC to 12V DC power supply in there?

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Thanks @Navat604. After discussing it aloud with my father (for a sanity check) this morning, it was agreed upon to do just that.

@Benji, the LED kit came as a kit (remote, power supply, lights). Is that what you’re referring to?

During this process, I’ll be relocating a 3 way switch for the overhead kitchen lights, to the other side of the wall its currently on, and using its original gang box for the GE switch. Hopefully that 3-way has the line lead (and enough slack), so I can tap into that for line to the GE switch. Then Ill run a load wire to the receptacle the Fibaro will be in, and break the connection from each receptacle to have constant power in one plug and switched in the one for the LEDs.

Sounds simple, but Murphy is sure to show up.

Went to a home improvement box store (Hoods) and looked at tile back splashes with the wife last night and the displays had LED strips under the cabinets. Cool white in color and the wife now has concerns about my solution… even though I bought the warm white option

Ah you got a kit, you should be okay then.

And now my wife doesnt want a switch. She wants a button mounted under the cabinet edge.

I picked up a GE Z Wave receptacle that the power supply will be plugged into but now Im stumped on a good Z wave button to buy for my wife.

Any recommendations? Single button and doesnt need to be fancy (hold for X seconds to do something else). This is for her and it will probably only be used by her.

Edit: Are there any negatives with running the extension cable for the LED strips, behind the stone backsplash other than they might get cut or stop working? I cant seem to find a better way to traverse the sink/window gap from one cabinet to the next. Would you recommend cutting a channel in the drywall to do this?

So with the Fibaro I believe you can connect a momentary switch to the input contacts to allow you to do this without changing anything else, have a look for ‘momentary’:

Or have the tile cutter section and remove some from the underside of the tiles rather than removing the surface material from the dry wall. One can use a 4 " diamond cutting blade installed in an angle grinder to just remove some of the rear of the tile without actually cutting through the tile all the way.

Actually it would be best to run the wire completely behind the space in the dry wall as long as there are no vertical studs in that area of the wall. Reason being is that if you ever needed to connect a new wire from one section of LED’s to the other then one could use an electricans “fish” that would allow new wire to be pulled and attached to each section of LED lights.

Doing it where the wire is stuck to the drywall and then tiled over will not let that wire move once all the tile and grout is in place.

Always have a backup plan! If you must do it this way and tile / grout over the wire then run two wires so that if one fails you have a backup.

Assume the wire will fail at some point and approach it that way.