Does anyone have any recommendations for LED under cabinet lighting. I think I need to do hardwired 120v LED’s since this is how the electrician wired it coming out of the wall. They are wired to two switches right now (dumb, I know). And I don’t know if it can be combined to one dimmer so I’m orobably gonna end up linking some zwave dinners together to control all of them at once.
Thanks.
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many people have done similar projects. You can find project reports by looking on the quick browse lists in the community-created wiki, looking down near the bottom of that page for the “project reports“ section and then down even a little further for the “projects by room.“ Look on the kitchen list, that’s where most of them are. There might also be some on the lighting list. 
I used these 12" and 18" dimmable LED strips that wire directly into 120v without the need for a converter. They come in warm or cool white.
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Thanks All,
Tyler, did you wire nut the plug of the LED’s directly to the bare electrical wires? There’s no outlet for me to plug these into.
Thanks.
Yes. I used to have fluorescent lights that were wired directly to the A/C lines. I actually bought a few plastic junction boxes that actually had a compatible connector for the LED wiring and pop out holes for conduit just to keep things tidy if anyone bothered to look under the cabinet.
Here is something similar to what I used, but not exactly the same. I believe I had to give the wire end caps on the LED strips a “sex change” so the connector would work. It involved slipping the end cap off the wires without breaking the metal pins and swapping them with the other side. Of course you could cut to the chase and just cut and splice and forget about using that connector box.
I did not connect the ground wire that was in the conduit since the strips are two wire. Also, because I use a dimmer switch (I think this is the reason), there is always some small amount of current in the line even when switched off. This causes one of the strips to emit a low amount of light that isn’t noticeable during the day. I’m guessing there could be a way to resolve this by wiring in a small resistor (Don’t take my amateur advice without some ample research.) , but I left it alone because it serves the function of a nightlight to provide some visibility to an otherwise completely dark room in the middle of the night.
That’s perfect. Thank you. Do you remember where you got the junction box or perhaps have the link? This is exactly what I need.
I just edited my reply with a link to the junction box…or one pretty similar, as well as an explanation of how I had to change the end caps on the wires of the LED strip. You may not have to with the box I pointed you too since it’s not the same box. And again, you don’t have to use those boxes and could just use a junction box without the compatible connector to hide your splicing.
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Thanks again. Really appreciate the help.
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I want to revive the this to get current suggestion for my project.
I have most light in my house LED controlled through my Samsung hub and Alexa access.
My kitchen and Dining light are controlled with two connected switched, can be programed and dimmed as desired. But I would like to upgrade my old under counter lights.
9ft kitchen, cabinet on both sides. Need non color dimmable LEDs, under counter and above uppers.
no problems connecting, or wiring. What I need is a single point control large enough to handle and be able to connect to Samsung Smartthings hub for dimming and programing times, and strips of single leds etc.