A few more random thoughts…
Even if you decide to go with nonnetworked receptacles for now, I would still have the deeper back box put in just so you have options in the future. These really shouldn’t cost much more than shallower ones unless you have cement walls already up. (Back boxes are also called “Pattress boxes.”)
whenever possible, get Pattress boxes that are plastic, not metal. Metal will degrade the signal of anything put inside the box. Sometimes you don’t have a choice though and the Pattress box will be a thin galvanized metal. If that’s the case, or actually, even if it’s not, it’s best to not use metal faceplates for switches and outlets. It just means the signal will be that much harder to get through. Again, this is true no matter which network protocol you select.
Walls and Doors and Signal Strength
Also, avoid metallic wallpaper. That can also degrade signal.
If you have metal doors, you have to think about how you’re going to get signal past them. The worst case is A typical residential building in Europe is usually metal doors in a brick wall. If it’s a metal door in a wooden wall, you’re probably OK. But if it’s a metal door in a brick wall or a metal wall, you have to start thinking about things like putting rubber weatherstripping on the door to give the signal a place to get through.
You can usually find a way to work around all of this, but if it’s a new build, you might as well make things easy on yourself.
The following shows the amount of signal loss for different types of materials. The higher the number below each material, the more difficult it is to get signal through
Ceiling line devices? How will they get power?
Also, seriously consider putting an outlet or two near the ceiling line if you can do so in an aesthetic fashion. This gives you the option to put security cameras or plug-in motion detectors or LED light strips or mains-powered smoke or particulate sensors up high without having to run cord and cabling vertically.
Motion Sensors work best at 90 degrees to the line of travel
If you’re thinking about motion sensor placement, these are typically most effective when a person walks across the sensor plane rather than straight on towards the sensor. It can literally save you a couple of seconds in response time, which is particularly noticeable if you’re using motion sensors to control lighting as someone walks into a room.
WiFi and Zigbee
Very strong Wi-Fi is valuable, but it will tend to drown out some of the other home automation protocols, particularly zigbee. So if you’re thinking of smart things or any of the other controllers that also have zigbee, you’d like to have those at least 3 m away from a Wi-Fi transmission point.
where to put the home automation hub?
Also, if you’ll be using any home automation protocols which use mesh relaying, you want to put the hub centrally in the house both horizontally and vertically. So if you have three floorS, ground, first, and second, ideally you would put the hub in the center of the first floor so that the signal can go both up and down and cover the whole house. If you stick the home automation hub in a closet on the side of the house on the ground floor, you may not be able to reach the second floor easily even with repeaters.
I just mention that because sometimes people doing a new build imagine sticking a utility closet someplace, and then putting all of their electronics controllers in there, but this is often the worst thing you can do as far as good home automation coverage, particularly for zigbee, Z wave, and Bluetooth mesh. These three are all low-power protocols, unlike Wi-Fi, and so you need to do a bit more planning about how you will get coverage throughout the house.
Of course, the bigger the house, the more challenging this is, so people living in a small flat may not have any issues at all. Again, just something to be aware of so you can make things easy on yourself from the beginning.