@JDRoberts newer/latest switches/dimmers/outlets have date code and model on top of the switch along with QR code.
Perfectly acceptable to do this and this method takes up less space in the box.
I had a GE/Jasco outlet do this to me recently, always indicated exclusion but it wouldn’t pair. I ended up returning and buying another and it worked just fine. My suggestion is to reach out to Jasco support for guidance as they can swap them or provide other options.
Try adding them using the Z-wave “brand” from the list. If there is a QR code on the face of the switch, make sure you leave the switch plate cover off because you’ll need to scan it as part of adding. If you get the error again, try backing out to the devices tab and scrolling through your rooms or use the all devices list in the upper left menu to see if it added despite the error.
A minimote is a now discontinued handheld remote from Aeotec that was useful back in 2015 and 2016 for adding zwave Classic (4th generation) devices to the network when they couldn’t be brought close to the hub since those devices didn’t have Explorer Frames. Old technology for an old problem.
These days the problems and the solutions are different. if you did use a minimote on the current generation at the very least you’d be forcing it back to the oldest security level, and you’d also likely screw up associations.
If you happened to have an old model switch and a still functioning minimote you could use it, but it wouldn’t be recommended for a current model switch.
I continue to ask for the specific model number of the switches involved because, among other things, as @Automated_House noted, if it’s one that supports “SmartStart” with a QR code, that method would definitely be worth trying.
First rule of home automation: “the model number matters.”
I am in strong belief that the devices are being added…This is confirmed because when you go to exclude, then they get excluded. I would go through the process but this time click up, click down, click up, click down. Wait in the App until it times out. Close the App or even log out, then open the App back up and look at the device list for devices not assigned to a room. It will more than likely be there. I have about 40 of these switches and I’ve learned to deal with the nuances of installing them in the New App.
Just a horrible experience.
You could also go into the IDE and in Live Logging and you should see when its added. Wait about 5 minutes and refresh devices in the IDE and it should be there.
You must have gotten some new, old stock sitting on the shelf for a while. All the GE/Jasco models in the past 3 years or so will have a QR code.
What phone are you using? As @rontalley said, if they are being excluded during that process then the switches themselves believe they are added to a hub.
It shouldn’t matter, but here’s one more thing you can try.
Each device should have an “air gap” switch at the lower left. Carefully pop that out with a small screwdriver. It should remove the device from power. Do that for 2 devices at a time and try to add the remaining device. It’s possible that there’s some radio interference.
Again, this should not be necessary. If it does solve the problem, then I would highly suspect at least one device is defective or at least out of specification.
I had a friend give me about 60 of these. He was going to make his home smart, and then never got around to it. I know they are a bit older, but I would hate to just dump that many devices. I am using a Samsung Galaxy Note 10+ phone.
I have a ton of these switches and the dimmers are notoriously a pain, temporarily relocate your hub so it’s closer. Then repeat the pairing attempt.
Three up and three down on the switch, wait 30 seconds, then pair in the app and when it starts, one press up on the switch. . You can also try to ‘scan nearby’ option instead of selecting the make and model.
They are about 6 feet from the hub. Added a switch to the den where the Hub is located at the same time I did this 3 gang. It paired up just fine, so I think the distance should be ok at 6 feet…
So… Update time. Kept trying to add them, to no avail. Then the middle one added for some odd reason. I considered it a small victory… tried all day on the other 2, and nothing. Then for some reason, the left one added, and Alexa immediately picked it up, and announced a new device had been found, etc… One small step for man!
nothing the rest of the day on the right one… Finally, taking some advice from here, I used the Air-gap switch on the 2 that were paired, and the right one finally connected. Super weird, but hey, in the end all 3 are paired. Thanks for all the help. I have many more switches to go, but at least I have a small bit of faith.
No one else said it that I noticed but next time reboot your hub and your app and try again. I have had it on more then one occasion it just didn’t want to add devices until after a reboot.
I just paired a GE switched yesterday with no issue. Add device → By Brand → GE - > Switch Dimmer → GE Z-Wave. Took about 5 seconds after I hit start.
I have never bought a Z-Wave switch through retail. All mine have come from eBay or OfferUp. Many were still sealed. Some were store returns. Others are obviously used. I highly recommend a “jig” for initial testing. I use a 3-wire extension cord that’s been cut. I tinned the bare wires with solder. This is potentially dangerous and you may want to use a proper electrical box. You can sit right in front of the hub and preconfigure your devices. This is how I weed out the occasional DOA device. I move the good devices to a room called “Offline”. Also, if you find your wall boxes to be very tight, sit at a desk, drop multi-gang installations into the wall plate and link the devices with as many small jumper wires to screw terminals as possible. I prefer the “push” type wire connectors with preset number of connections. With some planning, you can have the whole mess ready to snap in. Sometimes I tape cardboard beneath the wall box so I don’t scratch the paint while devices are dangling. While you’re in each wall box, it’s helpful to label the hot coming in and the loads going out. I use colored heat shrink, but electrical tape will work. I use red for hot, blue for fan, yellow for light. I’m sure others will have strong opinions.
Been thinking of just such an item! Get them all paired up initially, close to the Hub, etc. Test them to make sure they sync up, etc. Then actually install them where intended…
I’ve done that as well. I don’t have a dedicated “place”, but use either a workbench or a counter I have that is close to the Hub, Has E-net and is non-conductive.