Fibaro switch 213/223

Looking into either the single 213 or double switches 223.
I have some 2 gang switches controlling dual circuits and in other cases just 1 gang switches for single lights.
Not interested in dimming lights as such, so looking at the 213/223?

For the 1 gang switches, they control a single light and fan. There’s a seperate isolator switch for the fan. Likewise, for the 2 gang switches, it controls a single light for one switch and the other a light and fan. Once again there’s a isolator switch for the fan.

Haven’t had a chance to open up these switches and check out the wiring but know it’s a 3 wire setup as other switches I’ve changed downstairs are in a 3 wire setup.
So assume the 213/223 would be suitable…

Price of the 213/223 are the same…
Are the 223 flexible such that you can use them as a single switch configuration instead?
Would mean I could just get 223s instead and install for the 1 gang switches as well as the 2 gang circuits?

Yes, and yes.

It usually makes sense to get the double, the single is only required if you have a load higher than the 1.5KW (6.5A) per channel of the double.

It’s interesting that you are not interesting in dimming. I use the Fibaro Dimmer 2 in my bathrooms which allows me to use my Nightmode feature, which is really useful as when I get out of bed in the night the lights automatically come on at a low level instead of blinding me.


I hear what your saying as dimming would be useful in your scenario. But I would concerned if the dimmer 2 module could cope with the load and the various bulb types and fannunder the same circuit switch that I have? In some cases I’m unsure what load the extractor fan takes?
S1 - main light (x4 G4 @ 40w) = 160w

S2 - shower GU5.3 (X1 @ 25w 12v) with extractor fan (power load of fan unknown) and
Mirror lights GX53 (x2 @ 4.5w 240v)
The extractor fan has a seperate isolator switch as shown in previous picture.

So figured the bog standard high load Fibaro double switch would be a safer bet?

I found my extractor fans are connected to the lighting circuit just for signal. They draw their power independently, hence can stay on after the lights are turned off (based on timer+humidity). The particular ones I have seem to activate at around 30% on the lighting circuit.

You can quickly test if the fans are drawing their power from the lighting circuit by seeing if they stay on after turning off the lights.

So long as the bulbs are the same construction you should be okay. I.e. Don’t mix LEDs / halogen / CFL. When I installed my dimmers I converted all my bulbs to LED anyway as they’re so cheap now.

In my case, assuming the fan isolation switch is on…when you switch s2 off the lights and fan goes off as well. Likewise, when s2 is on the lights and fan goes on.
However, if the fan isolation switch is off. The fan will not operation when s2 is on.
I don’t beilieve there’s any timer as such as the fan goes off whenever the s2 turns off assuming the fan isolation is on.

So presume lights are drawing power from the light circuit right?

The lights in this s2 circuit differ and not really an option to change bulbs.
I.e GU5.3 (X1 @ 25w 12v) and GX53 (x2 @ 4.5w 240v)

And the s1 controls a light fixture with 4 G4 40w bulbs.

So does this change the options of using the dimmer 2 module? Or would the double switch 223 be a safer and guaranteed option?

You could probably put a dimmer on S1 if you really wanted, but not S2. Since the Dimmer 2 is only single channel, that would mean you’d need two modules, which would double the cost. So I’d probably just stick with a double relay/switch (FGS-223) at the end of the day.

Not sure what you mean by the dimmer as single channel?
Doesn’t the dimmer 2 module support s1 and s2?

Or assume you mean it only supports a single light circuit and not 2 independent light circuits that the double switch will handle?

yes, it has two switch inputs, but only one (dimmed load) output.

sorry about the NecroPost.

Robin, Where did you put your relay in line from your diagram?

I’m attempting the same with a Sonoff single switch. I have L and N input, and L and N output.

My first instinct was to put the Sonoff between the Isolator, and the fan, but of the four L options at the switch, none of them worked.

Thanks Robin.

This diagram makes it seem as though L2 is actually passing through Ground from the Ring Main, is that the case?

I think the issue I have with placing the relay at the light switch end, is that the lights on the circuit are Philips Hue, so permanently ON.

If L2 is indeed Ground, then it stands to reason that L1 and N, on the fan side of the switch, should be what I interrupt with the Sonoff?