But I’m unable to add the switch to my hub. I use the B button (S is not in use), press it tripple. It makes a clicking sound, even a connected light works (when clicking on the B button) but it doesn’t appear on the App of Smartthings Hub. I put it very close to the hub (on top of it).
Please can someone give me a hint?
p.s. I already added two Ikea trådfri bulb (zigbee). This FGS-213 switch is the first Z-Wave device in my network. I already added the DTH erocm123 : Fibaro Single Switch 2 FGS-213
I was not having any joy today trying to add an fgs212… there was some suggestions on the net
One was :
Turn the power off
Hold down button B
Turn the power back on - keep button B pressed
Release button B after three seconds
Then readd by quickly pressing button B three times
I may be mistaken, but that looks like a type C receptacle to me, which are common in Poland where fibaro is headquartered. Those are usually used with “euro plug” devices which are 3 A or lower. So I don’t see a problem.
They clearly show the 8 A label on the micro as well as have their disclaimer that work should only be done by a qualified licensed electrician, so I think they’re covered As far as the video goes.
Anyone who is not a professional electrician and attempting to install it should certainly check the specs for the receptacle and make sure they match the microcontroller.
Hi @anon36505037
Is the old Fibaro relay FGS-212
and the new Fibaro relay FGS-213 basically the same device, doing the same job? I’m thinking in terms of turning on and off a boiler? In this scenario, is one more suited than the other, or it makes no difference which Fibaro relay is used?
Yes it’s mains voltage. I’m bench testing the new 213 at the moment, I see it gives 220v, then turns off 220v, which is what I want. I’ve been doing too much reading on these devices, about dry contacts and the like, and started to doubt my purchase. But this sounds like what I need to power and control the boiler directly. When the switch is off there’s no voltage. We’re going to bypass the dumb thermostat, so the boiler only gets turned on when we’re home.
True, but the thermostat runs off 24v, and has only 2 wires. And it doesn’t just send one ON signal, but error messages if any, plus it stores the timer information. The boiler does the radiators and hot water on demand. I just want the thermostat to behave the same way, send the ON signal, but only have power to the boiler if I’m home…