Aeotec Nano Switch Wiring?

Hi There-

I just bought an Aeotec Nano Switch and I’m having trouble getting the toggle switch to work. The zwave stuff works fine.

The diagram indicates that I should take a lead from the line (live) to one side of the switch. Then I connect a lead from the other side of the switch back to S1 and S2. I’ve tried bringing that lead back to just S1 and then to both S1 and S2. Nothing works.

I’ve got this setup on my kitchen table with an LED light bulb, etc. I can’t figure out how to properly wire the manual switch. Can anyone help me interpret these instructions? They aren’t great.

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Is this the diagram you are using?

check the minimum load requirement

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Good point about min wattage.
Also check this as well.

Changing mode on the External Switch/Button Control.

The Nano Switch can be controlled via 2-state (flip/flop) external/manual switch, momentary push button or the 3-way switch. To automatically detect and set the mode to the appropriate type of manual switch wired into Nano Switch, toggle the button on the manual switch once and wait 2 seconds for the Nano Switch to detect the type of manual switch.

You can also set the external switch mode through Configuration Command Class.

Parameter 120 [1 byte] is the parameter that will set one of the 3 different modes. You can set this configuration to:

(0) 2-state switch mode
(1) Momentary push button Mode
(2) 3-way switch mode

Yes, this is the diagram I am working with. It shows two switches. Why?

I’ve looked for minimums and can only find that info for the Nano Dimmer. :frowning:

test with a larger load then

I would change the DTH to this z-wave tweaker and check to see which parameter is set for the external switch right now. Change it to 2 state model. [BETA] Z-Wave Tweaker

As for why 2 switches and not just one. I think because this module supports so many type of switches and also auto detect when first installed. It requires 2 inputs. Again, I am just guessing so you have to contact Aeotec to confirm.

You’re absolutely correct in this case.

The Nano Dimmer and Nano Switch have to external switch ports and both can react the same or be modified to directly control other devices directly through group association which depends on your configuration. Although S2 external switch port has an interesting setting for only 1 way triggers which is a slight difference in use between S1 and S2.

I would just suggest connecting the switch to S1 and COM only if using one switch.

@dan-dotson Most users will just use S1 to COM or S2 to COM connections for control over the Nano device. (Doesn’t specifically matter which S1 or S2 port you use, by default they both will control the load).

The schematic shows 2 switch connections, both are completely optional for this unit. If only one switch is to be wired, its easier to explain that S1 to COM only need to be connected while you don’t need any connection over S2.

Perhaps it would be easier to see the schematic as such by removing the second switch:

Some additional information asides from using parameter settings to set it back into auto detect, you can do this manually:

forcing the Nano Dimmer to enter external switch detection mode:

  1. Tap the Nano Dimmer button 4x times within 1-2 seconds which will force Nano Dimmer to enter External Switch detection mode.
  2. Flip your external switch once, then wait at a minimum 10 seconds before you flip the switch again.
  3. Now test your external switch.

Alternatively, you can use Z-Wave Tweaker to force the external switch mode

Configure the external switch mode for S1. //Edited, Thanks @Bill_Crowder
Parameter 120 [1 byte size]
(0) Unknown Mode
(1) 2-state switch mode
(2) Momentary push button Mode
(3) 3-way switch mode
(4) Enter auto switch detection mode

If using S1 to COM connection:
Parameter 120 [1 byte] = 3

@Navat604 - Z-Wave Tweaker is a powerful tool, i think it should be a mandatory SmartApp :slight_smile:

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So I finally was able to test this out using standard SPST switches. This worked great. I then tested using two three-way switches. I simply wired the two outputs from the first switch into S1 and the two outputs from the second switch to S2. I’m assuming that the Nano detects the voltage disruption as a switching event. This worked great in the “lab” environment (my kitchen table).

I then installed everything into its place in the walls/ceiling. Now the switching is funky… It will work great for 2-3 iterations, but then it will miss the toggle of the switch. Maybe once; maybe twice - maybe more. I can’t detect a pattern to it either. It just misses the toggle.

I installed the Zwave Tweaker to look at the parameters. Actually, I set the parameters manually and tested. No luck. I then removed the device from SmartThings, and manually reset the switch. I then re-added to ST and then checked the parameters. 120 and 121 are both set at 2, which is for a 3-way switch.

I’m at a loss as to why this is happening. If it were bad wiring, why both switches? Am I wrong that both legs of the three way should land in S1 or S2?

Thanks,

Dan

Did you find out the minimum load requirement? About to buy some but a few a suppose to switch only a few led-bulbs. Thought load requirement wasnt a thing for switches?

Dan, I am just guessing but it’s possible the floating voltage on the opened dumb switch is causing the erratic problem. I would think the switch far away from the micro switch is the cause.
@Arnqvist minimum load is not a requirement but with very low load. You will end up with glowing bulb in off position.

Okey… what is very low? < 3W? Thanks

Nano dimmer spec here with minimum
https://aeotec.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000165398-nano-dimmer-technical-specifications-

Nano switch doesn’t have a minimum
https://aeotec.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000165731-nano-switch-technical-specifications-

So I installed a couple of these yesterday, I noticed a low, high frequency sound from all of them. My Qubino dimmer is dead silent though. Anybody else noticed this?

I just installed one of these (see here for details) in a 3-way cirucit. I can not hear any type of humming coming from the switch. There is a fairly noticeable “click” when the switch is turned off or on, but no humming that I can tell.

–Jamie

Usually the humming is from a dimmer type of switch and not on/off relay switch. That’s why you don’t hear any humming. Your switch is not a dimmer.

True, but I thought @Arnqvist was asking about switches and not dimmers. A little tricky nomenclature don’t you think. I see the reference to the Qubino dimmer though, so yea, probably not an apples-to-apples comparison.

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Alright, yes it’s my nano switches that makes a high pitch sound. My Qubino dimmer is silent, even though I know that dimmers are usually humming.

Its not loud though, i cant hear it from across the room so I’ll live with it.

Ok can someone just confirm I’m understanding this right for Nano Switch (not dimmer)? Currently switch has line and load with neutral tied off in back. So I need to join Nano N to neutral, Nano L to Line, Nano IN to Line, Nano OUT to Load, Nano S1 to switch, and Line to Switch?, Nano S2 to nothing? Is that right? I was very confused by diagrams use of two switches.