I’ve been searching with (no luck) to find a simple wiring diagram (not the one Aeon Labs supplies) to show what wires and/or jumpers are needed to wire a nano switch to a regular 2-way toggle where the power comes into the light.
I think I understand what goes to L, N, IN and OUT…Live AC power, neutral, jumper from L-IN, and wire to load (light) respectively…but what connects to the toggle switch?
In the 3-wire going to the switch (B/W/Ground), does the black connect with the Live AC, and White is connected to S1 (or vice versa…don’t think it matters which is which)?
If your power comes into the light and your switch only has a black, white and ground, you can’t install a device that requires a neutral without replacing the wire from switch to light with one that has 3 current carrying wires: black for constant power, red for switched power, neutral for the device.
I forgot to mention, I’m putting the nano switch in the light junction box.
My understanding was you put the nano switch in the light junction box because that’s where the neutral is located (and no new wires need to be run). So in the light junction box, the white neutral from incoming AC 3-wire goes to N on the switch and white to the light. Why would I need neutral to the toggle?
Can someone please provide a wire diagram showing how this is supposed to connect?
I’ve seen instructions where they jumper from L to IN. Like we said earlier, Live AC needs to go to the White wire that’s going to the switch, then the black wire comes back and connects to S1. Is that still how you guys are reading this? So when S1 gets line voltage, the relay opens and OUT sends power to the light.
Yep, looks right to me. Technically the relay closes though. L, IN, and white to switch, connect to incoming AC power. N and white wire to light, connect to incoming neutral wire. Black from switch connects to S1.
This is a pretty swell device as it runs off 120-230V AC or 24V DC for power, and the in/out is a separate relay that could switch another voltage of 230V or lower, AC or DC.
I’ll let you know how the install goes…It’ll be a few days…got a winter storm bearing down on us here in Indiana. Guessing delivery of the device will be delayed.
You got the white and black for the switch reversed. You always have constant hot run down the white wire, through the switch, and back on the black. It’s electrical code. This a single case usage, where the power comes into the light, and feeds down to a switch, then back to the light.
Here’s a wiring diagram for anyone else that needs it. I’m not an electrician either…and these type of drawings seem to sink in better for me. It’s not depicted in this drawing, but the nano switch in this scenario is located in the light junction box where the power comes from.
I drew it with a jumper from L to IN based on other info I’ve seen for these devices. But as @TN_Oldman stated above, you could certainly bring a wire in from where the black/white wires are wire-nutted together also…same, same. From what I’ve read, the connections on this device work best with 18 ga. wire…so all the connecting wires will need to be 18 ga. including the jumper. However, I’m certainly going to check and see if 14 ga. fits before connecting everything.
Just something to be aware. The 18 Gauge is only for the external switch and not for all connections.
From the installation manual
2. Preparing connection wires
14 AWG power wires for Input / Output.
18 AWG copper wires for external manual switch.
Use the wire stripper cut the metallic part of the connection wire and make sure the length of the metallic part is about 5mm.
I got everything wired up today…using all 14 AWG wire (solid). I also used the 6 space push-in “Wire Nuts”…they worked great…highly recommend them over traditional twist on wire nuts.
I ended up skipping the jumper and wiring both the L and IN directly into the Hot “Wire Nut”.
I also had to manually set up the Configuration Command Class using the Z-wave tweaker. The auto detect wasn’t working. When I first powered it up, I could turn the light on/off from ST, but not the toggle switch. Now it all works like it’s supposed to.
Those push on wire nuts are great for low current connections but I wouldn’t trust them for motor or heating loads or if your switch feeds through to receptacles, just as an aside. The spring clips inside are tiny and only contact a small area.
L, IN, and white to switch, connect to incoming AC power. N and white wire to light, connect to incoming neutral wire. Black from switch connects to S1.