It’s very tricky, but not impossible, as long as you can move the micro somewhere upstream from the light.
http://aeotec.com/support/1219-micro-switch-wiring-schematics.html
Probably easier to use any no load switch as the aux and then use The Big Switch SmartApp to set up a virtual 3 way.
Thanks, putting it upstream really is not a good option. How do i wire it all with a no load switch?
You can sometimes put the micro in the light fixture, but it usually has to be between the incoming power and the light.
I honestly don’t know if the micro will work if it just interrupts power from the light fixture to a downstream master switch, you should check with the manufacturer. But I don’t think it will work if the downstream switch is an aux.
Are you saying you presently have two nonnetworked switches that control the same light, but both get their power from the light? Or is there only one switch now and you want to add a second switch?
Anyway, back to the question…
In order to control the light, you have to have one networked device that can interrupt the load to the fixture. There’s no getting around that except by using a smart bulb, which I assume is not what we’re talking about. So you can’t do it all with no load devices. But if the load-controlling device is the micro, you usually have the option of putting it either at a switch or at the fixture.
Once the micro is in place controlling the load to the light, you can use a no load switch for the second switch and it can communicate wirelessly.
So you can avoid all the wiring issues for the second switch by making a virtual 3 way using The Big Switch smartapp.
But the first device still has to be on the same circuit as the fixture and still has to control the load. Again unless you can use a smart bulb.
Ok the way it is now power comes through the the light(can lights in ceiling close to the eve very hard to get to). Then it runs to the first switch and from there to the second.
It’s just going to depend on exactly how it’s wired. I would bring in an electrician, that’s an unusual configuration.
Ok thanks for the help unfortunately I have 5 3 way switches in my house all wired like that 
I feel your pain. Take pictures of everything, including where the wires connect to the screws, before anything gets disconnected.
Also be aware it’s really likely that there are wires that change colors, maybe with taped striping, for different legs. People have different conventions for downstream switches, but they’re all confusing, unfortunately. So I would leave this one to an electrician.
Is this what you have? If so, depending on the junction box at the can light. If it’s big enough for the micro then you can put it there. Otherwise you can ask the electrician at home depot for a bigger compatible one and switch it out.
Not sure about code in your area but most place won’t allow a separate hidden j-box.
The problem is the micro requires a neutral. There’s no neutral at the switches in your diagram. Once you get past the fixture, the whites are taped black hots, not neutrals.
If the OP wants two networked switches, the wiring is going to look different.
All the wires should be at the can j-box including neutral unless his house doesn’t have neutral. He has to rearrange the wires at the fixture to make it work. The micro doesn’t need a neutral for the input switches. It just sensing open/closed to change state. The only problem he has is acesss to the can. Hopefully he can provides us more into or like you said. Get an electrician.
Yes that diagram showes what I have. If I can get to the junction box how should it be wired
The Black power source wire goes to AC power L of the micro switch.
The White (neutral) soure wire goes to AC Power neutral of the micro switch.
The black and white wires from the switch go to the two holes label (wall switch). Don’t worry about polarity.
As for the light. there will be 2 wires coming from the socket to the junction box of the can. Black to load of the micro switch and white to neutral of the micro switch. Don’t forget about the ground wires.
Ok thanks I will give it a try!
New here, and I’m trying to do some due diligence before I purchase a bunch of these micro switches (because my house has all old wiring where the power comes into the light first).
@Thegame539 I crudely modified the diagram you posted based on what @Navat604 described. I just want to make sure I got the right idea, plus it should help others visualize the modification. Essentially this is what you did and you confirmed it worked?
Thanks!
Yes that’s right, I’ve done this to 4 total in my house and they all work great! One thing you might want to know that I don’t think was anywhere in the instructions is that the terminals that are for the switch are for 18 gauge wire. Trying to stuff the 14 gauge can strip the screws on the terminal.
So this schematic online and the one that is packaged with the switch seem to contradict each other. The link you posted it looks like they are “good” with allow you to connect any external switch to the 3V outlet. The instructions that they ship with state “The “3V Out” terminal should be used only with the Aeon Micro Touch.” So can I use my micro smart switch connected to any external switch on the 3V output?
There are several different models, and different generations of each model, so there may be some differences. I would check with the manufacturer if you have any questions.
Oh man how embarrassing I just can’t read after a long long day of work. There are specific terminals for the switch and then one 3v.
I think this may be how my kitchen is set up. If I use the Aeon Microswitch by the light fixture, do I still use Smart switches, or do I keep the ones I have now? I’ve read a few threads, and that’s the only part I don’t see any comments about.
Adding a follow up question: will the GE add on switches work in both switch locations if so?
