Please Help with Aeon 3way micro switch install

I’m attempting to install an Aeon 3 way micro switch into a existing system of 3 way switches (2 switches & outdoor lights)
It seems that I have 3 wires connected to the existing switch (Red & 2 blacks). One black seems to go directly to the outdoor light as it doesn’t have a red in the bundle. The other black and red are coming from the other switch (I think) The Red has 120V to G and the black has nothing.
I currently have the lights & switches working by connecting the black from the load to the load L and then the red to the L. I made a pigtailed Neutral wire from the neutral bundle in the back of the box (Box holds 4 switches so there are alot of wires in there). The black that is a part of the red bundle is capped and set aside.
This is the only way I’ve been able to get it to work. Seems odd though that a wire gets left out. I never like having extra parts when I’m finished as I’m sure something is missing. Can anyone please help?!?!
Thank you!

You got it to work with both switches and the ST apps? Or only with the switches at certain positions only? There are quite a few posts about the Aeon micro switch and 3 ways on this forum. Use the search feature and read up to see which one matches your setup.
Were you able to find out which wire is your load, line hot, traveler and neutral? You will need that for your setup.
Here’s a reference to some of the 3 ways

I’ve read a bunch of the posts but not yet met one that meets my set up. So
I’ve finally figured out what my wiring is but not sure how to implement it.

My set up is that power comes into to the first switch box and out to the second switch box is the red & black travelers ( along with the bundled neutral not connected to the switch) In the second switch box I have 2 blacks ( one traveler from the first switch and one that goes to the lights) and the red (traveler from the first box) with the neutrals bundled in the back.
Currently I have my micro switch installed in the second box (solely because I have more room in that box) and i have it hooked up as follows:

  • black from the load to the load L
  • red to the L
  • I pigtailed Neutral wire from the neutral bundle in the back of the box
  • black that is a part of the red bundle is capped and set aside
    So the system works both from the second switch and also from the microswitch given that the first switch is in the proper position to have the Red Traveler hot.
    I’m thinking I have 2 choices to be able to use the first switch also (one useful one not)
    Not so useful version - I can twist the red & black from the first switch with a pigtail and use that as the source hot (pretty much takes the first switch out of the picture) so that what ever position the first switch is in it will allow the source to reach the second switch and microswitch.
    More useful version (not sure this will work) - Leave the micro switch connected as is and reconnect the capped black lead from the first switch to the second switch common terminal. I’m hoping that this would allow the first switch to control the light also.
    Thank you!

I hate to do it, but it’s my professional duty to say that if you have any doubts in what you are doing you should be calling a licensed electrician for help.

That being said if we assume your switches are wired identically to the picture you posted above…

The first approach will work but as you stated it will be at the expense of both of your switches, so you’ll now only be able to control the outdoor lights via the micro switch. If that is the route you decided to go I would remove both switches and install cover plates, and wire your as noted below:

I imagine you would prefer to use one of your switches and if that is the case you can use the following wiring diagram:

Note that the diagram above will work for either switch so you can choose which ever one makes more sense. Again I would recommend that you remove the unused switch and install a cover plate.

If you have your heart set on using the micro switch you will need to pull additional conductors to correctly wire it up. Aeon’s support has a great page on how to correctly wire the micro switch.

Finally, if you really want both switches to work and don’t want to pull new conductors you should look into the GE 12722 on/off switch paired with a GE 12723 Add-On Switch.

Right now I have it working with one switch (the one it is behind) and the app. Now to try to bring the second switch in to play.

If i use the first option ( twist the red & black travelers from the first switch with a pigtail and use that pigtail as the source hot ) and then put the micro switch into momentary mode that should allow the first switch to provide the pulse necessary to tell the module to change states. As the first switch changes poles that should be enough of a ‘moment’ to allow the module to see, Correct?

I don’t think what you are proposing will work, because when you flip switch #1 you are momentarily cutting off power to the entire micro switch. The micro switch won’t register that you’ve sent a pulse to it, because it’s main power supply has been cut off.

Hope this helps!

Were you able to figure out how to have both switches working?

I never tried getting it to work off both switches. Since i got it working with the one switch, i just left well enough alone. Every once in a while someone will turn off the power switch and it will take me a moment to figure things out but for the most part things just work.