Aeon Micro Switch Question

I just installed an Aeon Micro Switch for a 2-way application. All is well and the old toggle switch will turn the light on/off and it paired with my hub. My question is around the toggle switch. After the install I was testing all of the wires with my multimeter and discovered that both terminals on the toggle switch are hot (120v) all of the time. Is that correct?

I’ve looked over my wiring several times and I’m pretty confident that it’s all done correctly. I was just surprised that there is voltage running through the toggle switch itself. I guess I assumed that the 120V would be isolated from the toggle switch by the micro switch.

If someone can confirm that this is the way it’s supposed to work I would much appreciate it!


I don’t think that’s correct for a two way application, unless aeon changed something. The two wires from the toggle go directly to the switch input terminals on the aeon.
The three way setup is different.
To be clear, you have one switch controlling one aeon correct?

I found the exact same thing with mine.

Most likely the toggle switch is just an interrupted in the circuit.

Correct. One Switch controls the fixture. I have a wire coming from each terminal on the toggle switch to the terminals next to the 3v terminal. Then the wire going to the light on the load terminal and the hot wire going to L terminal. Then I created a pigtail to the other Neutrals and connected that to the N terminal.

My concern is that the terminals for the toggle switch specify 18guage wire and won’t even accept 14guage. I’m pretty sure having 120v going through 18guage is a not code and potentially a fire hazard since the wire would melt before the breaker ever tripped.

Interesting, we’ll that explains why I’ve been occasionally been zapped by the switch input side…
Yes I work on live mains, no don’t do this at home…
Seems this was required to get the switches to work in a 3 way config with a live traveler. The dimmers do not work this way. I tried a dimmer in a three way using the switch wiring, dimmer go by bye with a flash and a bang…

I wouldn’t worry about that, the lighting load is not routing through the micro switch inputs.
These things are UL approved

That’s my thought… It’s a voltage, not a load do the writing really isn’t a factor.

I measured the trigger current some time ago, it was very small < 20ma if I recall.

Thanks for the insight! On to the next project now.