4 pin CFL bulbs

Hi Everyone!

I have a few CFL fixtures in my apartment hallway that I would like to add to ST. They can be turned on/off by 3 different switches.
There are 3 caveats that I face ~ 1. There is no neutral wire available to add new switches, 2. I’m not 100% sure that the new switches would fit into the box and 3, I live in an apartment that I rent and whatever I do I will need to undo if/when I move. I also cannot update the boxes as my building is very, very old and it would cause havoc with the landlord.
I figured I would throw this out there and see what happens.
I changed all the other light bulbs to GE Links or Cree and have everything set up on ST. It all works well. I have to say that I’ve learned a lot from the community since buying my ST hub last year. You guys are a wealth of knowledge! I’m looking forward to working on my Echo + ST project soon. My plan is to have voice control over all my electronics.

Thanks in advance for your input!

I would stick with smart bulbs in your case. Phillip hue bulbs are expensive but really nice. Quite a few of us have problem with GE link bulb and Smartthings but a cheaper alternative for sure. Maybe get An Aeon minimote for easy access.

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If this is a four pin fluorescent with a ballast, you probably won’t be able to find a smartbulb that works with it. Phillips makes hues for 2 pin, but I don’t think they make them for four pin.

If that’s your situation, given your other caveats (no neutral, rental apartment) , I’m not sure you’re going to be able to find a solution that is directly compatible with SmartThings.

A Lutron Caseta switch would probably work to give you Smart switch control of that particular fixture, but it doesn’t integrate directly with SmartThings. You could try using IFTTT for indirect integration, but it’s going to be pretty limited.

You can contact Phillips and see if they have a Hue that works with a four pin in a ballast structure but I’m guessing not. Doesn’t hurt to ask though.

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Thank you for pointing out the 4 pins fluorescent tube @JDRobert . I know home depot sells LED 4 pins tube for some model. Unfortunately not smart one. I now understand your issue.

@JDRoberts the Lutron might work. I use IFTTT now so that’s not an issue. I would like the 4pin cfl fixtures turn on when the front door opens in the late afternoon, especially when during the fall & winter months.
I’m guessing I would need 3 of the Lutron switches to make this work. There’s a switch by the front door, then on the first floor and another on the second. No big deal, if they don’t work, I’ll return them! LOL
I will contact Phillips about a 4pin Hue and see what they say.

Thanks for the input!!

I found this; https://www.ledlight.com/g24_4-pin_male-to-e27_female_converter_adapter.aspx?gclid=cnunio39xmccfuerhwod_9omlq.
I think this might work with a Cree bulb in the fixture. Providing the Cree fits.
If this works, then I’m golden!! lol

The problem is potential overheating.

Most networked lightbulbs have their radios in the base very close to where screws in. They don’t handle heat dispersion the same way nonnetworked lightbulbs do. So they can overheat in situations where other bulbs would not. Most have warnings on the box or manual that say not to use them in “enclosed fixtures,” this is why.

So personally, I would be hesitant to use that kind of adapter. You could write to the bulb manufacturer and see what they think.

I know this is an old thread but I’m actually running into this EXACT same issue, minus the multiple switches (just a single pole). I haven’t found any four pin smart bulbs (and don’t really expect to). Regular single pole smart switches don’t work in this case, though the building is very new and there is a neutral wire.

I had the thought of using a 3 way wiring smart switch even though it’s a single pole. Anyone tried this?

Why don’t regular switches work? :thinking: In most cases the ballast itself has a transformer and the wall switch is just a regular wall switch. If that’s the case and you do have a neutral at the wall switch, there should be multiple models that would work, you just have to match the load specifications.

Well, if I’m missing something and this is an easy fix for a regular smart switch, it would make my day. The outlet box is as follows:

Line/Load (incoming/outgoing) wire bundles located directly side by side.
Left side:

Right side:

^ It’s that damn red wire that’s causing this to become a thorn in my side. It’s wired like a three way switch, but it’s only a single pole. Any insight would make you my hero!!

I’m not sure it’s wired like a three-way switch: have you mapped the circuit to see exactly what’s going on?

In any case, it’s outside my skillset. Why don’t you start a new thread titled “Smart switch for a 4 wire 4 pin fixture?” And describe the setup And hopefully someone will have some ideas. A picture of both the fixture and the wiring inside the light switch would also help.

You can put it in the following section of the forum:

Will do now- thanks a lot!

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