More diagnostic information would certainly be helpful.
@April, if ST has (or creates) some kind of FAQ document, this might be a good post to add (#12 above) with a bit of cleanup.
How to use an aeon minimote to pair devices to ST:
Pair the minimote to your ST hub.
Follow the instructions in post 12.
I suspect a LOT of people would find the information to be extremely helpful (and if the minimote can be found for $25 or so, itâs well worth it just for the ability to pair far-off devices without physically moving the ST hub.)
I think this is a very valuable discussion. I have two questions.
Any thoughts about the resilience of a Z-Wave vs Zigbee network?
I thought that in principle only a primary controller can do inclusion or exclusion unless SUC/SIS function is included in which case a secondary controller can do inclusion. Is my understanding correct?
Yes, thatâs true for zwave.
As far as zwave vs zigbee, both are good. Personally, I like zigbee for battery operated sensors in commercial installations because you can build really large networks with excellent power management. I think zigbee handles sleep state more efficiently. Doesnât matter much in a home installation, but with several thousand nodes in a commercial installation it can matter a lot.
Again personally I like zwave for most home automation because no matter how many times we say wifi shouldnât be a problem with interference for zigbee, I find it often is in residential installations where there are many nearby wifi sources. But I like to have control, so it may just be me.
And I havenât tried anything at all with ZLL.
Both are improving, though, and zigbee 3.0 is definitely making home automation a priority.
Edit - my sensors were zigbee unrelated problem!
Diagnostics will really help.
Arenât SmartThing sensors Zigbee?
The ST motion sensors (v1 and v2) are zigbee devices. A zwave heal wonât affect them at all. To heal a zigbee network, you need to unplug the router and leave it offline for about 15 minutes.
If that doesnât do it, start looking for interference from WiFi, old cordless phones, or other RF sources. Or any moveable large metal objects, including shredders, trash cans, metal frame furniture, etc.
The following article explains further:
Orphan nodes can be a problem in any zigbee network, but particularly when an installation is deployed without any particular plan, as is common in residential homes.
Just as an example, a V1 ST motion detector can act as a zigbee repeaterâbut only if itâs plugged in with the USB cable. But if you later unplug it and let it run on battery power, it can no longer act as a repeater, and you can orphan any other devices who had been dependent on it.
Better tools would certainly help in either case, of course. 
Thatâs right. Totally forgot. Edited my post. I still wonder what the problem wasâŚ
I did unplug the hub for a few minutes and it didnât help. 15 minutes is good to know. Nothing changed on my router side and the 2.4 and 5Ghz band channels have been locked for months for best coexistence, least overlap with zigbee.
Agreed
Problems can be tough to find.
Since you lost multiple devices in different locations, Iâd start by looking for problems near the hub, especially if, again like most homes, your hub is on the edge of the installation rather than in the center.
A friend of mine swears the following story is true. Iâm not sure I believe him, but the thing is, it COULD be true. He uses it as a cautionary tale with clients who complain about preinstallation planning, but itâs a good reminder for debugging anyway.
A zigbee hub was inside a metal cabinet. The doors were kept open, and it worked pretty well. A wifi router was on the next shelf down ( bad idea, they should have been 10 feet apart). A work station with a large rolling chair was nearby.
One technician was lefthanded. When heâd been working at that station, he rolled the chair away from the desk in the opposite direction from most employees, and about half the time the zigbee router ended up losing contact with a large group of nodes. Very hard to troubleshoot, because when he was sitting in the chair working at the desk, signal strength looked fine. But then as soon as he got up to go get coffee, it might all die again.
Again, might be a made up story, but not an impossible one. 
Two of the motion sensors that failed are 4 feet line of sight, and 5 feet through a wall from the hubâŚ
Various gateways implement wifi and zigbee. For example Almond+. Is this a bad idea?
Best practices would say yes, bad idea. But there are lots of people who stack routers right on top of each other and things work OK for them. It just depends on a lot of local factors and some design decisions. Because you have joint control of everything, itâs possible you could do some balancing in a multiprotocol unit, like throttling, that you wouldnât be able to do easily with two separate devices.
The Almond+ is still very early in its release cycle, so really too soon to tell from a practical standpoint.
Have there been any new updates regarding z-wave healing on v2?
anyone have advice for plug in devices used for holiday lighting? I use a couple outdoor dongles and a couple indoor walwarts for my christmas lights.
theyâre in places i wouldnât (and wont) leave them all year, nor do i like the idea of them being plugged in wasting wattss (no matter how tiny) for 300+ days a year doing nothing.
Should i remove and readd them each year? (sint there a relatively small number of devices allowed on a zwave network- and i know it wont reassignâŚ)
Should i just suck it up and leave them added but move them to a power strip in some out of the way place like my basement?
either way i need to run a heal process after i do it.
sounds like the consensus is unplug my hub for 15 minutes just before bedtime (v2 so yank batteries too) then plug back in and run a heal. And then maybe do that a few times?
The SmartThings hub is one plastic box with several different radios inside. You have a Z wave controller and A Zigbee Coordinator. So these are actually two separate networks but both associated with your one SmartThings account.
Just unplugging the hub and leaving it off power for 15 minutes and then plugging it back in will force your Zigbee devices to rebuild their address tables but it will have no effect on your Z wave devices. To get your Z wave devices to update their address tables, you need to use the Z wave repair utility. Your outdoor plugs were probably zwave, but check to be sure.
Z wave allows for a total of 232 devices.
I am currently using ST as the primary and Honeywell L7000 as the secondary. My controllers are located in different parts of the house. My Kwikset lock seems to constantly loose connection to one of the controllers. A z-wave repair seems to fix the ST, but the Honeywell lacks any heal capability when itâs the secondary. The Honeywell will usually reestablish connection on its own after a few hours, but then I notice that ST doesnât respond reliably, and I believe these behaviors are connected.
My hypotheses is that z-wave devices arenât able to maintain 2 separate routes to the primary and secondary controllers. Does anyone know if z-wave devices establish routes independently to the primary and secondary controller? Do I need to move my controllers closer together to solve this problem or is there possibly something else I might be missing?
yep
z-wave so need that utility- thatâs what iâve been doing late at night when no one is doing anything. Sorry assumed this was âthe z-wave threadâ so was obvious. ya know how that goes- lol.
it gives some weird errors with no explanation. Something about not being able to update routing info on device X (name) - one device is an OLD (maybe my first) ACT (later homepro- now maybe defunct or an ODM) - so i suspect it needs replacement. A second is newer (one of the latest iterations of intermatic). Both work fine reporting in and being controlled remotely so not sure it matters.
The last is Device 16 without a name. Thing is I have no device 16 anymore- i removed it (probably a forced remove of a dead thingâŚ) Guess i need to open a ticketâŚ
But anyway- 232 devices is NOT that much. Iâm on like 40 now and going to do nothing but add in life- wasting 4 slots each year seems like a bad idea. Is there a way to just unplug them and ârepairâ and then the hub will chill out about them?
NOT an expert. I suspect JDRoberts will know best, but my understanding is:
ONLY the primary controller creates and maintains the routing table. It will (for lack of better terms and certainly not the official one) âhand off a copyâ of the table it created to the secondary when asked. I seem to recall maybe you have to tell the secondary to âlearnâ the routing table from the main, but forget the expect terms.
I also believe any changes made on the primary are not automatically sent to the secondary so any time something is added or removed from the network you need to ârelearnâ
again no expert