Zigbee relay and contact sensor in one

Devices & Integrations
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I am looking for a simple Zigbee 3.0 relay (switched NO/NC contacts = output) and digital contact sensor (sense if a circuit is open or closed, i.e., the opposite of a relay = input) all-in-one, in one device. Aka, at least one output (one relay) and one input.

Any suggestions?

I got this MHCOZY device https://a.co/d/htsD7Iv that has four relay outputs, but has no inputs.

The purpose is to integrate with Truth Sentry WLS II motorization systems. A manual is here: https://www.truth.com/main/pdfs/WLSEnglish.pdf

Basically it automates opening and closing casement windows and skylights. It has two inputs (controllable by dry contact relays) to open and close the window, and one output (a relay itself) to indicate whether or not the window is in a fully closed state. So I would like a Zigbee 3.0 device that matches all of the inputs and outputs.

Ideally the device should be mains powered or DC low voltage powered, rather than battery powered, so it can fit in a wall box with the rest of the wiring.

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Frient I/O module has both inputs and outputs

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Shelly Uni has all requirements but it is wifi.

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How well does Shelly Plus Uni integrate with SmartThings? Is there a native driver/edge driver?

Also how well does the Gen1 Shelly Uni integrate with SmartThings?

I looked at the specs and I think I may need multiple ones, but only need the Gen1 Shelly Uni digital input/output features.

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@TAustin has made driver for Shelly Devices.

Problems with the latest firmware have also been reported.

Maybe it’s good to wait a while.

It’s also possible to use Cloud to Cloud connection but I don’t know if Uni is supported.
Shelly - SmartThings connection

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Here is some research from the past couple of days. As pointed out, I am looking for a ratio of 2 outputs (2 dry contact relays) to 1 digital input (1 digital sensor). In my configuration there will be one wall box (area) controlling two motors, which means 4 outputs and 2 inputs. Prices researched are in USD shipping to the United States.

Shelly Uni (Wi-Fi): 2 outputs, 2 inputs. $12.99 Walmart. Need 4x Shelly Unis = $51.96 plus input equipment (resistors etc.) plus 2x Mean Well RS-15-24 $7.95 (Amazon.com) = ~$73

frient IOModule (Zigbee): 2 outputs, 2 inputs. €57.01 per item at Amazon.de. Shipping is around €17.39 for one, €17.42 for two, €19.69 for four from Amazon.de. Need 4x plus 2x Mean Well RS-15-24 $7.95 (Amazon.com) = €247.73 (~$276.13) + $15.90 = ~$295.

I looked for the “Develco IOModule” but was not able to find it.

The “MHCOZY” products are actually in some generic Zigbee relay series called the ZG-001 through ZG-005. Here is a comprehensive review:

MHCOZY 4-channel device aka ZG-003-RF (no plastic case): has DC 5V USB and DC 7V-32V power inputs.

MHCOZY 4-channel ZG-005-RF Amazon.com $22.90: has AC power input. Does not appear to be UL or UR listed though.

Two ZG-005-RF = ~$50, no AC/DC power supply required. No input sensors.

Two ZG-003-RF = ~$50, plus 2x Mean Well RS-15-24 $7.95 (Amazon.com) = ~$68. No input sensors.

I am looking for Zigbee input sensors that take hardwired power, other than the frient IOModule, but I am coming up a little bit short. However a bunch of Googling came up with this AliExpress listing 3256805946030308. It says “7-27V AC85-250V Tuya 8 Way WiFi/Zigbee Remote Switch Signal Control High-level Signal Input Mobile Phone Display Circuit Status” “Bundle: DC7-27V zigbee” $12.91; “Bundle: AC85-250V zigbee” $14.52.

My understanding is that this module supports 8 inputs and 8 outputs. However, the outputs are not dry contact relays–instead the outputs are switched to 5V (AC version) or whatever your DC input voltage is (DC version). You can buy a 6-position dry contact relay board for $7.79 that runs at 5V or 12V.

If this is correct, then I only need two of these (AC version) plus two boards, and can skip the MHCOZY ZG-003/ZG-005 devices as well as the power supplies. Total would be $14.52 x2 + $7.79 x2 = $44.62 (free shipping).

This is whether it works at all. Has anyone else ever seen this product? Do you think the AC version is safe or would it be better to go with the DC version and use a UL/UR listed Mean Well power supply?

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