I had shots of dryer and stove but can’t find them. Split the cable down enough to clamp both hots, pretty easy.
I did something similar here in Maryland. I needed to get it done for the state to pay for 50% of my duct sealing and attic insulation.
Wish I had ordered one for my dryer. It’s probably the biggest user. I only have 100 amp. I guess I’ll have to let one of the clamps just sit there.
Is there any reason why you wanted it inside the switch box? I plan on clamping it to the incoming wire on top of the box. Looks like your wires might come from behind. It’s hard to tell from the picture. If so, the I guess I know the reason. . . .
That is indeed the reason. 
They are not doing it for “free”. We are all paying for it… well, anyone who has a gas or electric bill.
The cost comes from the fee that they collect on all of our bills.
They did all of the spray foam insulating in each outside wall bay between the studs, as well as any wire/pipe openings between floors. They were very thorough… it took them a couple of hours.
I also had them replace 12+ light fixtures at $10/ea. (5 of them on my front porch) and they gave me/installed somewhere around 35 bulbs as well.
Very worth it, IMHO.
I want your utility company. I had them come in about 6 years ago and all I got was a couple CFL bulbs and a warning that the insulation ( little pellets that look like crap ) in the attic might contain some carcinogenic dust depending on were it was mined from .
Maybe the deals would be better now? You could always have them do a new assessment. I believe National Grid allows one to be performed every 18 or 24 months, but I am not certain.
Their assessment pointed out that I had insufficient insulation in the attic crawlspace, so I had them add 11 inches of blown insulation. Took them 4 hours and they gave me the paperwork to use one of their approved banks, which facilitated a 0% loan.
I have recommended this to friends and family many times… I could not find a downside! ![]()
I had no idea until a day or so ago that they’d do so much for you. I could have saved hours and hours of work.
I’ve sealed every floor and wall penetration I can find. I also sealed up all the rim joists in the basement, though I probably need to insulate them. I’d love to have someone insulate the walls though. I have a second floor room that’s above the front porch. It’s an ice box. I need some insulation in there!
I moved into this house in August. I’d like to get one winter heating bill in and some Ecobee data before I call them out. And I want it to be very cold so the thermal camera will show cold spots. . . .
That’s most likely vermiculite. Nasty asbestos laden stuff. I’ve got a couple inches of ancient wool or something. My dust mask turns black in a hour. I might wear my respirator up there tomorrow. I went up without a mask and was coughing for hours. . . .
That sound like the crap). I couldn’t think of the name. Mine is all covered by 2 layers of fiberglass, but definitely made a mess when I decided to install new lights in the ceiling of 2nd floor bathroom and bedrooms.
The power factor capability may be important for some users on the v2 model. Motors, fluorescent lights, and (I think) digital equipment are the major devices that have a power factor other than 1 (1 is optimal). From a cost standpoint, commercial customers are charged extra when the power factor is less than 1, so if cost is the main driver, residential customers may not care. Wikipedia has as good of an explanation of power factor that I’ve found. Disclaimer- I don’t really understand power factor, but when doing energy evaluation at my church, I learned which devices are bad news for our electric bill.
I just spoke with Al, great guy, great service. My stuff should be arriving in a few days, big fun!
Received my 2 - anyone have device handler recommendations?
Would like a cumulative Kwh that is reset able as well as rather quick updates of current watts.
extras - KWh * cost, hi , low …
I am currently using this one by @johnconstantelo
The one below is one without the battery tile. I don’t recommend using this device on battery because it sleeps most of the time and doesn’t report very often to conserve battery. Occasionally, this HEM v1 will send out wildly fluctuating numbers (over hundred thousand watts) and this DH can be configured to ignore those. Below is what it looks like.
Thanks - that’s what I THOUGHT I was using - same author, but probably an older rev. Loaded that one and looks fine. (I have 4-5 in my IDE , all re-named.
Looks like pretty much what I need.
Now 1 is showing 96 watts low and all the time - It’s on a split unit AC/Heat unit. I can see 2 -3 vampire watts but not 95. I’ll kill the breaker and check later.
Just received mine and already installed.
So far been working fine.
Just need to find a way to pull those cable nicely through the electrical panel…
Punch out one of the knock outs and feed thru there. Add a 2-screw connector and shim way out with “something”. Could use fireproof foam or caulk as well.
Could use a smaller cord clamp but would need to drill the cabinet.
The electrical panel is recessed inside the wall, I could pull the cable through it but will still end up in the wall.
I have an electrical outlet 3 feet below, I may need to fish the cables out to the outlet… that’s not perfect but I can’t think of anything else…
Definitely need to spay foam in there, I can feel the cold going in! probably from the main cables…
Just installed mine:
Lots and lots of room in my box, so installation was very easy. I just opened a knockout on the side and put a cable clamp in and that was that.
When I have pretty much every light and such turned off, TV off, not running the dryer and the water heater is not heating, it looks like my house uses about 300 watts. When the water heater kicks on, add 5,000! Clothing dryer, wow!
Right now my electric company will pay $750 towards the cost of a heat pump based water heater, and they only cost about $1,000 so I may do that.
Is there a way to export the readings to an external system so it can be logged? I realize a Smart App could do it but I’m wondering if there is already one, or if there is an easier way?
This is what I use.

