I am trying to add some new electronic timer switches to the shared hallway in my building. There are 4 light switches that are all currently push button timer/delay switches that control the lights. Each light switch has 4 wires (2 live, 2 neutral) and an earth that is connected to the back box.
I need to identify the Live In and Live out wires to be able to add the new electronic light switches. I have disconnected each light switch and used a multimeter to try and see which wire has a current. I connected one terminal to the neutral wire in the back box and the other terminal to the Red and black wires in turn. None of them had any current running through them.
I am not sure what I am doing wrong but I would have thought that one of the wires would be live?
This is how the current wiring is laid out for the 4 switches and the bottom circle is how the wires are connected to the terminals of each light switch.
I can’t make sense of your diagram. If you are trying to maintain timer switches but still allow for smartthings to control your lights/devices whether or not your timer switch is on you will be needing to do some creative wiring and using a device like the Aeon Labs in wall micro controller (link below).
You will also need to have one of these on each device/timer switch you are using.
Omg buddy please don’t be checking current on ac voltages by shorting hot to neutral… not the best idea. Man… I hope I misunderstood you. You should check Voltage between each leg (for me here locally id be checking between any combination of black,red,white,ground in a non commercial/industrial setup (color coding means nothing especially in those applications)and don’t use a cheap meter (u can get badly hurt from using cheap probes nevermind a cheap meter)… also… never rely on anyone else’s work. In my neck of the woods it’s common place to use a 3 wire+ground as traveller plus power and ground for 3 way applications. Or even neutral, hot, switch leg plus ground… Or even 240 between red and black with no neutral and ground (white left floating)… Or 240 on red and black with neutral… and so on… and yes… this is in “my part” of North america
Your circuit doesn’t make sense (at least with the wiring standards I have been exposed to). Maybe post pics/more details/model numbers of everything. Please don’t go blindly measuring things… for your own sake