I’ve been very happy with my leaksmart valve. Haven’t had any issues with it after nearly 4 years.
The device tests itself. If you don’t open/close the valve it will automatically do it very briefly to ensure that the valve won’t stick when needed.
Steerpike,
Just a heads up that there are Watercops available with extreme discounts, , I have one of those and I learned later that it has an outdated firmware and results in disconnects from the zwave network. The work around I have employed is nightly power cycle via a scheduled smartplug. Which to date, knock on wood, the watercop rejoins the zwave network after the power cycling. Not ideal. Otherwise the watercop seems pretty beefy.
Watercop I believe is a rebranded Fortrezz.
Otherwise, deployment of leak sensors is a guess, as you can imagine the leak could occur anywhere in your home, hopefully your leak sensors are in the right spot…
Have you tried (and failed) to get the firmware updated? Seems like something you’d want to address! Where do you find the ‘extreme discounts’?
I’m trying to decide which I want more - a shut-off valve or a flow meter … or both. the specific location I’m targeting doesn’t have too much room so I am thinking a combo device would be best.
Yes, leak sensors are a challenge … in each bathroom you have the toilet and the two sink lines, plus the shower controls. Then you have the kitchen, and the fridge, and the hot water heater, and the sprinkler system, and … etc. You could spend a LOT on leak sensors. Going with ‘flow’ is a whole other approach; you have to really understand your home before you can infer too much from flow. I’m currently reading my outdoor (utility) meter every few hours to build a picture of my actual usage. I have a garden irrigation system that can’t be turned off, and I have a whole-house softener that does it’s own ‘regeneration’ event every several days. I’m about to leave for 4 weeks and will be turning off the ‘indoor’ water (at the softener) since that doesn’t affect the irrigation system.
I just install my Water Cop and figured out the regular disconnects. I will be installing a smart plug to cycle the power, as well.
Curious to know what you mean by – " … figured out the regular disconnects." Does that mean you have an out of date version of the device that regularly disconnects?
I put a Zooz twin plug (zen25) to control the watercop and as well as my UV and water softener. Of topic, i like the Zooz twin plug.
And regarding Steerpike’s comment about updating the firmware of the watercop - i attempted to contact the company and got an uphelpful reply - essentially I believe I bought a really old version of the watercop on amazon. I found no method to update the firmware. I can still control the valve, but wouldn’t put much trust in it for responding to water leak sensors. Bummer, but this currently is a second home (to be a full time retirement home soon) and I basically use the watercop as a primary shutoff valve when we are not at the home.
I meant that mine does what you were saying…after about 2 or 3 days, it disconnects from the network and power cycling will allow it to reconnect and then it does it again. I got mine from The Smartest House a long time ago (finally got it installed!).
Thanks. For what is worth I setup an automation for the powerplug at midnight to turn off then turn back on one minute later. The water softener [hellenbrand] that I have does supposedly integrate with a watercop, it has a flow monitor in it that you can use to trigger the watercop. I may look at later when we move.
I’m using the Dome valve actuator. The control arm can be expanded to accommodate a valve handle that is not perfectly vertical (or horizontal) which mine is not. Closes main water valve as soon as it receives a trigger. I have a ST water sensor as well as a StreamLabs Monitor which you can set in Away mode and will trigger a wet status if it detects ANY water flow.
Also, since I have a Grundfos Manifold upstream of the main valve (where a leak could appear and cause pump to run constantly), I wired a 220v relay ahead of the Grundfos controller. It has a 12vdc coil, so I use a TP-Link/Kasa Mini Outlet with a 12vdc power supply plugged into it. When the wet status triggers, not only will the Dome close the main valve but the Kasa turns on and powers the 12v supply exciting the relay coil and opens the relay (pump wires are connected to NC Normally Closed on relay) cutting the power to the well pump. I had the relay and 12v power supply sitting around, but you could get a 120v coil relay ($40 on AMZ) and plug an extension cord into the Kasa and cut the plug off of the other end and connect the wires to the coil terminals on the relay. Now any leak detected will close main valve and turn off the well pump so no chance of any water flooding.
I have had a leakSMART for almost a year now with no issues. That is even after a pipe burst and completely submerged the unit and still no issues.
@englanddh2
Hi, I like what I see about the LeakSmart products. It is just very, very disappointing they only sell to the US market. 
As far as I can see there is actually a good chance it would work fine in Europe since it uses Zigbee and has a 110/220v power adapter. As a user are you aware of any issues that might prevent it working e.g. stupid limitations on creating user accounts so they need a US address or phone number?
Do you have the (newer) model linked to their hub? As far as I can see the valve and sensors use Zigbee to talk to the hub and the hub uses WiFi to talk to the Internet and therefore again there should be no issues about using it in Europe.
Sadly it looks like still even if fitted by a qualified plumber there would be zero chance of qualifying for the five year warranty and they don’t appear to be CE certified.
I see far too many smart products where stupid design decisions make them unsuitable for use outside the US but in this case this is one of the rare cases this does not apply so their ignoring the opportunity to sell to Europe is bizarre. I can tell you we here in Europe also have indoor plumbing (we invented it!), we also have electricity, we also have this new fangled thing called ‘The Internet’ and yes we also get water leaks!
I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work in Europe. I believe the frequency for Zigbee is the same for the US and Europe.
I just have the valve and I use a ST hub with several ST leak sensors. I have also automated it through Routines where it shuts when I leave home and opens when I arrive. I didn’t have a warranty on mine since I purchased it used on eBay.
I am VERY interested in either the Dome or EcoNet shutoff value device, but went into my basement and I saw this.
As you can see, the water meter pipe is about 4 inches above the shutoff value, which means that any device that needs to sit on top isn’t going to fit due to a lack of clearance.
I have no idea what it would take to change that water meter to something more compact with less piping.
Does anyone have any suggestions on an alternative?
You could rotate your shutoff valve so that the handle is in front instead of on top.
but all the devices I’ve seen don’t sit on top of handle, instead, they sit on top of gray part which will still be beneath the water meter pipe.
If you have 3-7/8" from the top of the nut holding the handle on your valve to the pipe above the Eco Net Bulldog will fit nicely assuming you have a 3/4" valve. Also you can gain another 1/2" if you can remove the black indicator on top of the Bulldog valve. You can call tech support and send them a pic with exact measurements. They were helpful with my install.
Or someone with a torch could just rotate that whole valve so the handle is in front instead of on top.
After reading many solutions and feedback I decided to buy a motorized valve that has normally open contacts available that confirms the valve is either fully open or fully closed. These contacts only only close once valve is either fully open or fully closed.
One of the high percentage of feedback on motorized valves was after so much time the valves would not fully close. This is the reason I selected the valve I did.
Now I have the valve triggered by my smartthings water leak sensor and I receive confirmation also from my door/window sensor that the valve did indeed close all the way.
So which valve did you choose? 
I like that idea, what valve did you choose that has those contacts available?
I bought these valves from Ali Express. So the worst part was the 8 week delivery time, but they only cost $35 each. So I actually an extra one as a spare. I installed 2, one for my main water shutoff and a second one for an outside water hydrant that has a leak somewhere underground. So far the valve on my water hydrant is used everyday, it works great, either turn on via smartthings app or just ask alexa to turn on the water on. I have it setup to automatically turn it off after 5 minutes since it has a water leak underground.
Works pretty cool, when I turn valve on, I can then watch the status and only after it is fully open the status changes to on. I need to setup an alert that when it turns off, if status doesn’t show off within 10 seconds to alert me that something is wrong.
Heres the valve I used.
DC 24V 12V 5V BSP/NPT brass 3/4’’ electric actuator valve 2/3/5/7 wires motorized ball valve with manual override and indicator
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dW9qu1W
I also use an arduino to help control both the on/off and the status feedback. This allows me to use only one sensor for both the fully open and fully closed status’.
This one is not approved for drinking water.