Is it this?
Reads like it’s for the 6580 and the one you are talking about is the 9580. Does that code work on both?
Had a nest but got rid of it after Google acquired the company. Will probably be getting a Ecobee 3 soon. Looked at the zen but it was too boring.
Have 2 Homeywells and they both periodically drop off the network. Going through forums it sounds like this is a known problem with these units. I HATE THEM and have decided that I’ll get what I can on eBay for them, eat the loss, and get something else (friend has Ecobee and I’m digging that).
Search the ST forums for info on Honeywell. There are MANY complaints about networks issues and poor cust serv
@joel, I did exactly that with my Honeywell thermos. They started off good, but soon became the most troublesome devices I had. So glad I got rid of them.
I have a RCS Z-wave thermostat, which is excellent. It was the third stat that I tried and with out a doubt the best. I had a couple of questions on installation and received great support from RCS.
I had a Nest and neither my wife of I liked it, since we could not set the range that it would start and stop at.
Two weeks in and my Ecobee3 has stopped working. It will no longer send a Start, Stop or Setpoint signal to my heat pump. The IR remote control that came with the heat pump works fine and has no problem controlling the system. My HVAC company, who installed both the heat pump and the Ecobee (and the CT100) came out, inspected the thermostat and wiring and confirmed my diagnosis that the thermostat is not functioning.
The CT100 however, continues to work like a champ.
Ecobee is having me jump thru hoops to return the defective unit to them and I’m wondering if anyone else has had experience returning product to them.
I have the Honeywell 9000 series wifi’s and they work reliably (three of them). The polling without Pollster is not reliable but that’s a SmartThings issue, not Honeywell’s.
As I understand it any Honeywell that works with the Total Comfort website should work with the code posted above.
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Since I have yet to get Internet in my house I can’t hook any of my automation stuff up. Help me understand the polling issue you’re talking about in detail please.
You have to run a Smartapp called pollster to get relatively accurate current temps. Otherwise they will update here and there but not reliably. The Honeywell and Pollster threads do a better job explaining this than I could here.
I use the white Peq thermostat. My home has heat only, so it suffices. It was $45 new from eBay. Connected to ST no problem.
Ecobee3 plus remote sensors (a must) due to draft issues on the sensor on the main unit, dumb CT100 zwave thermostat (doesn’t require common but add it and you have a zwave repeater) and now of course there is Nest 3 (yet to be reviewed by ST guru’s).
Do you remember if this is a two wire thermostat or if it is three? I have read that some of the thermostats require the use of a third wire which must be installed by an ac company.
I have a Trane 14i system that I installed when I built my house in 2003 so I wanted to make sure this thermostat would work with it.
Also was it difficult to sync it to the ST hub?
Do any of these thermostats work with a Carrier Infinity unit, or am I just SOL on being able to use a thermostat other than the one that came with the system?
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It synced up with no problem. I’m not sure what you mean by 2 or 3 wire. There’s 5 wires in total for my air handler. Power, heat, fan, cool, and return.
Older systems that are heat only can have just two wires. Not sure if that is only for boiler type systems or not, because that’s what I have.
Wifi thermostats (at least like the Nest and probably the Ecobee3) need more power than previous thermostats. They have rechargeable batteries, so they don’t draw power from the system 100% of the time, but they do need to top it off.
With a two wire system, power only flows to the thermostat when the heater is running. When it’s off, the circuit is open and the thermostat can’t draw power. If the heat doesn’t run long/often enough to charge the battery, then the Nest will try to pulse the circuit to draw power without truly activating the system. Depending on the heater, this may or may not work well. If the heater responds slowly enough, you won’t notice, but if it’s too quick then the heater will go off and on rapidly.
This can be solved by running a third wire (the common wire) that allows the thermostat to draw power without activating the heater. But since older thermostats didn’t need that, many older houses were wired without it.
Our house has forced hot water baseboards, and the old boiler only had two wires. The Nest seemed to work okay with this, with the “pulsing” not triggering the heater. But I did shut the boiler off in the summer so we would lose the ability to see temps on the Nest when they dan out of battery.
When we replaced the boiler, I asked them to put in a common wire. They did, but they weren’t able to get the common working that day. The Nest definitely did not react well with the new system in a two wire config. We ended up putting our old programmable thermostats back until the electricians came back to fix the common.
I suspect that anyone with forced hot air and a/c probably has all the needed wires.
That’s interesting, I hadn’t thought of the possibility of “stealing” some volts from the circuit when it’s closed. Seems like it could work, but as you point out, you need to have it run often enough. The trane that I have requires the always on 24V circuit so it comes in the power wire and returns it on the ©ommon wire to close it. I also agree that if you don’t have a fan or A/C that requires signals for those to the air handler 2 wires would work just fine.
Thanks for the reply… I was able to pull my current thermostat off the wall and there are a bunch of wires in there so it looks like it will work just fine with my Trane ac system.
Thanks again for the info
Usually the Nest or Ecobee will have documentation on their site about which wires to use as a sanity check before purchase. They’ll tell you how to compare what’s hooked up in your current thermostat to what needs to be hooked up to the new one.
Usually you can sub the Fan wire as it’s a 24V circuit as well. The pro is you don’t need a separate 24V C wire. The con is your fan will always be on.