Video Cameras, Video Doorbells and ST


(TG) #1

I recently purchased the ST gateway, a smart deadbolt, window and door sensors, a siren, and some outlet controllers. I’ll be installing it all this weekend. One of my primary goals was to immediately add a few video cameras and a Doorbot-ish video doorbell. I was absolutely floored that I cannot find any of these device types that are officially supported yet.

I’ve searched this community for an answer to this question, but came upon a lot of developer discussions and no clear answers.

Are these type of devices supported or should I send the ST back and go with a more mature solution?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


(Convinced ST will never be unbroken…) #2

I’d send it back if you’re looking for some tight integration in the SmartThings app. What exactly are you expecting? I mean other than what the DoorBot app does?


(Brian) #3

For only being funded 2 years ago I think ST has matured pretty quickly.

That note aside, there is no official support for video cameras yet, foscam and dropcam are hacks at best right now.


(Matthew Bial) #4

It would be great to be able to use the Doorbot to trigger a door strike or gate motor. We still don’t have a great gate access solution. Eventually (allegedly) the Doorbot will include integration with Lockitron to release door strikes (if you use a Lockitron Access buzzer).

Lockitron integration with SmartThings would also be a big help.

Does anyone have any ideas for a good gate access solution for SmartThings? Thanks!


(TG) #6

Actually, after buying and installing a Doorbot last week, it’s already back in it’s box for a refund. What an awful, awful piece of technology. Video is pixelated crap, the audio worked twice out of about 50 tests and was too garbled to hear, and there is no motion sensor built in, which is a shocking omission. $200 of utter crap. Save your money. I just ordered a Skybell in hopes that it’ll be better. No HA integration for Skybell yet, but they’re working on it.

As far as the ST gateway, I realize it was a kickstarter project, but after working with a Revolv gateway at my friend’s house and helping put that system together, the ST solution feels extremely immature. I can’t even get the ST to pick up half of my sensors. The Revolv picked up a few things we didn’t even realize were compatible (some Sonos equipment).

Going to send the ST back for a Revolv or Veralite. It’s not a terrible solution, especially for the price, but it’s not even close to best of breed yet. WIthout video compatibility, it can’t be relied on for a serious home security solution, and that was my #1 reason for purchasing.


(TG) #7

Apparently my hub did have issues. I unplugged it yesterday and then plugged it back in an hour later and all has been well since. Now that everything is connected, I’m having some fun. Aside from the app needing some serious UI and usability work to correct for some awkward navigational gotchas, the platform is pretty damn nice. I’m going to mess with the existing DropCam support and count on SkyBell being supported at some point. Heck, I might even put my developer hat on and start writing some SmartApps :smile:

Sticking with ST for the time being. I didn’t realize the power of Smart Labs until recently. Definitely a difference-maker.


(B Denton) #8

I know this is an old thread, and I’m a newbie here, so maybe someone has already suggested this, but here goes. Most gates, and automatic doors I’ve seen use a dry contact for activation.

It would be simple for someone to take one of the smart outlets, and use that to power a 110v ac relay.
If your gate has separate open and close buttons, just use two smart outlets, and relays. One for open, one for close.
The only drawback I see to this is that someone could accidentally trigger both at the same time, which might or might not be a problem depending on what sort of gate you have.

The same setup would work well with an electric strike. Just use a smart outlet, and an appropriately sized transformer of the correct voltage. Power the strike directly off the secondary, if it runs on AC.
If it’s a DC model, then just install a bridge rectifier between the strike and the transformer.