Thank you that wasn’t the one I tried.
That code makes the switch turn up in the app with all the buttons available but I only seen to be able to assign actions to the main section of the switch.
Basically, I can’t sign actions to the individual buttons as the app kind of closes out to the main interface.
If I assign an action to the main button, all the buttons do the same thing.
Edit: I also can’t seem to unassign actions from the main button.
Have you tried webcore pistons?
I’m using and i have no complains, I can use both switchs individually
No, I have never heard of webcore pistons.
If the official smart lighting feature is available in your country, try that one. It works with older DTHs that don’t always work in the new V3 app, and specifically it handles buttons in the old way. 
Steps one through four in the following FAQ have screenshots showing you how to find the smart lighting feature. You can ignore the rest of the FAQ. (The topic title is a clickable link)
If that doesn’t work, webcore is a community created rules engine for smartthings. (A “piston“ is what Webcore calls its automations.) Very powerful, but also can be a lot of work to set up. Here’s the FAQ on that:
No, no official lighting app available in smartthings here.
I’m not sure how to do the WebCore thing though. What do I install and from where?
I’m not opposed to learning how to do the coding and all that but it seems hard to get in to initially.
Hello guys,
I was wondering if the orvibo workaround is still working for the double switches after the last movement done by smartthings some days ago.
Today I tried to pair a new double switch, same brand and model as the ones I already had perfectly working with a modified dth created from the stock zigbee multi switch dth.
The switch is correctly recognised, but, to my surprise, the child device is not created anymore!!!
If I change the dth to the stock zigbee multi switch, the child device is created, but the 2 minutes problem starts happening.
Could somebody else confirm a similar problem?
OK, no patience so I decided to modify woobooung’s dth, which is correctly creating child devices, in order to deal with the 2 minutes problem.
Here it goes my modified duh which at the moment is working perfectly.
All my greeting to Woobboung who made the hard work.
I sent a pull request to him on GitHub so he can add the mod to his nice dth.
Can anybody tell me if the (yagusmart) zigbee light switches act as zigbee repeaters?
I don’t think so, at least, mine don’t
This popped up on amazon recently. looked too good to be true. It wasn’t, its great. Works perfectly, native compatibility with ST, perfect sync with manual dimming and switching. Also a very nice smooth dim, no noise from using them on multiple types of lighting, and best of all…no neutral!
The only other thing to say is that I’ve really only just bought these in the last 48 hours so cannot atest to longer term reliability.
Also ofcourse they are of a new brand I’ve never heard of and cannot find a trace of online so buyer beware I guess.
Although saying that the only potential safety issue I’ve ever had with a smart device has been a smartthings official plug!
Which wall switches do you recommend to use with my yeelight?
I am still looking for my own solution as I have not yet found something that meets all my own criteria.
However after looking at the Iolloi link on Amazon provided by @mkdr30 I also saw another brand called Samotech. Samotech appear to be OEMing Tuya products but are making them easier and cheaper to acquire here in the UK.
The interesting thing here is that supposedly Tuya have some HomeKit support which is one of the criteria I am looking for.
Does anyone have any experience of Tuya or Samotech? Can anyone confirm whether HomeKit works either via the Samotech/Tuya SM310 hub or if one links the Samotech/Tuya modules to a Philips Hue hub?
Note: Officially Philips Hue only exposes to HomeKit their own brand products.
Samotech is a decent budget brand, I have several friends who have them and they’ve been pretty popular in the forum.
HomeKit support depends on the exact configuration.
Tuya makes both WiFi and Zigbee devices which are then rebranded and sold under many different brand names.
None of the Tuya Zigbee end devices have HomeKit support themselves.
However, tuya makes a bunch of different gateway models, and one of those gateway models does have HomeKit support for some of the Tuya Zigbee Devices connected to it. That model is sold by Zemismart in the US and some other brands in the UK. But if you are using that gateway, then you don’t get any integration with smartthings. 
There are some Tuya Zigbee products which can be added to a Phillips hue bridge, but like other third-party products such as Gledopto Or INNR, the hue bridge will not expose them to HomeKit. This is an Apple certification issue, and it’s the same reason that the Tuya Homekit gateway doesn’t work with third-party devices. In order to get home kit certification, the bridge company has to individually certify each model that it will expose to HomeKit. Some reviews have said that one or two of the Samotech models did end up being exposed to HomeKit, but if they were, that’s an error you can expect to be resolved eventually so I wouldn’t rely on it.
https://www.samotech.co.uk/products/zigbee-dimmer-switch-hue-compatible/
I found this thread whilst trying to debug why I am having problems with my Yagusmart 2 Gang switch.
I am replacing a simple 2 gang one way standard switch controlling two lights; an LED Floodlight and a Halogen Ceiling light.
My experience so far is that if the Yagusmart is wired as per the old switch, nothing happens.
If I put an earth wire into the N terminal, the switch becomes active, and I have it configure in the ST app.
Unfortunately the 1st gang does not operate - the light is permanently on, the 2nd gang works perfectly.
I have the capacitor across the 1st light as recommended, but it seems to make no difference.
I have previously installed a Yagusmart 1 gang switch (earth wired into the N terminal) and it works OK.
Any observations or suggestions.
(I am an aging IT professional [1970] so understand logical stuff, but not an electrician)
Earth (called “ground” in the US) and Neutral (the N port on that device) are NOT interchangeable. Remember that your goal is not merely to get that particular switch to turn on and off: it’s to get that particular switch to turn on and off without burning down your house or creating a shock hazard.
Sounds like it might be time to bring in an electrician.
And here is a UK reference on the same topic:
It also sounds like you might need a different model of switch, one designed to work with two wire rather than three wire systems. But don’t connect earth to a neutral port, you will create a safety hazard. 
As @JDRoberts says, never use your earth wire instead of the neutral. Whilst it might get some switches to work you would then be passing some current through your earth wire which if a fault were to occur could turn any metal fixing/appliance in your home live!!!
You obviously don’t have an RCD/ELCB (Residual Current Device / Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker) in your home or this would have tripped your electricity supply (unless you don’t have your lighting circuits protected).
Earth connections are there to protect you and your home do not misuse them.
I am based in the UK so understand our wiring and have been doing switch replacements in my house for many years – not blown anything up yet!
So, UK house – 2 wire lighting circuit. But the Yagusmart does not even become live until there is a wire in the N terminal. One there is a wire there, I can see it in the ST app, I can switch switch 2 on and off, but switch 1 remains permanently on.
What I am seeking is some advice from someone who has overcome these challenges, not read the instructions and implemented and the worked first time.
To me the problem is that without a wire in N nothing happens but the wiring diagrams for UK 2 Wire don’t see things that way. Hence I am stuck in a logic loop.
Any one else got a view?
Simon Thompson
The simple answer is you’ve bought the wrong switch. You have to ensure you by the 'no neutral ’ type for our type of wiring.
I didnt intend to come across condescending in my message above and if I did I apologise. I was simply trying to explain what you’ve done is both dangerous and against regs/code in the UK.
Whilst it will make the switch ‘work’ its working incorrectly and both dangerous to your property and family.
