Types of devices to measure individual power consumption? (Compatible with ST Energy)

Hello,

What types of devices you use to measure individual energy consumption aside from smart plugs?

For example, I have an Oven that connects to the wall directly, and I didn’t want to change the DIN Rail switch, although the Oven has its individual switch.

I was thinking about something that I can connect to the wire but I don’t want to use any of those zigbee switches because I don’t know if they can handle the power of the Oven… also, I would like it to feed the energy consumption to Smartthings Energy and since the oven has its on/off button, the device doesnt need to have a switch functionality.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers

There are basically only three options:

  1. Attach a device like this to the individual phases of the power cable (not recommended):
  1. Attach the same device in the distribution box.

  2. Mount a device like this on the DIN rail:

Hey @Andreas_Roedl,

Thanks for your reply. Do you know any DIN Rail Switch that is compatible with Smartthings Energy?

Not personally. You should avoid any WiFi devices (some Shelly devices are supported), better chances with Zigbee or Z-Wave devices.

If I had more time now, I would do some research.

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No problem.

Most of my devices are Zigbee, and I prefer that way. I was trying to search for Smartthings Energy compatible devices but I always find pages for compatible brands with Smartthings in general

I would have to respectfully disagree, and I think so would most network engineers.

The choice about whether or not to use Wi-Fi devices is a personal one, and depends on your router, the other devices you’re running, a bunch of other stuff. But there’s certainly nothing wrong with WiFi as a protocol, and indeed, as a network engineer I have argued for about 10 years now that it is the only one suitable for real time energy monitoring with SmartThings (other than ethernet, of course) because with anything else that currently works with SmartThings, you’re going to flood your network with the monitoring messages and that can wreak havoc with either Zigbee or zwave. Zigbee and zwave just aren’t designed for the volume of traffic that real-time energy monitoring brings.

So certainly, Shelly should be a candidate. There are also a few systems specifically for energy monitoring which get connected to the circuit breaker box, but The issue with those is they don’t generally report down to the individual device level, just circuit by circuit, so that may not be sufficient for the described use case.

Energy monitoring is now included in the Matter 1.3 specification, and SmartThings is ready for that, but it will probably take most manufacturers six months to a year before they have devices available that can support it. So there aren’t a lot of choices right now, but theorem likely will be in the future, and it’s probable that almost all of the ones with that feature will be Matter over WiFi.

That leaves two questions, and this may have been what you were thinking of.

1) does the device work well with SmartThings?

Because with the exception of matter over Wi-Fi, Wi-Fi communications are not standardized the way zwave and Zigbee are, so it can be hard to find ones that work out of the box with SmartThings. Again, this should change a lot in a year or so once we see matter devices with energy reporting. They’re just aren’t many here yet.

For example, there are a bunch of different Tuya devices sold under at least a dozen different brand names, but none of them work straight out of the box with SmartThings and the integrations can be fidgety.

2) is the device safe to use?

One of the nice things about the Shelly devices is that they do offer UL listed versions of many of their products. They do cost a couple of dollars more, but there are very real safety differences, as Shelly themselves has described.

There are a few additional testing marks which are to the same standard as you well. The following FAQ discusses those:

FAQ: Does UL Certification matter?

If you’re just using a batterypowered door sensor with a single AA battery, there may not be a big difference. But for something that’s wired into the mains, I personally only get devices with a real safety certification (which again leaves out all of the Tuya stuff Even if you can find a way to integrate to SmartThings.).

——-
So, it may be that you just wanted to steer the OP away from a bunch of unsafe and hard to integrate devices in which case of course I agree on device by device basis. But it’s not the WiFi protocol that is the problem.

Particularly in Europe, I think it is likely that we are going to see some energy monitoring options available, indeed some may be available now, that will use matter over Wi-Fi for energy monitoring of individual devices and I wouldn’t want to leave them off the candidate device just because of the protocol.

If you open the SmartThings app, choose “add a device”, and then click on the three vertical dots. You can see “supported devices.”

There is a category in that list for “energy” and a sub category for “energy monitoring.”

Many of those will be using Wi-Fi, and I think that’s fine.

JMHO, of course. :sunglasses:

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Hi @JDRoberts thanks for the reply and thorough explanation.

I agree with the idea that there is nothing wrong with Wifi but for this specific case I would prefer something like Zigbee if there’s any, because of the ability to relay messages through other devices and the first places I would like to try this may be a bit far from the Router, and want to avoid connectivity issues.

I know how to check supported devices and all on Smartthings my question is if they are compatible with Smartthings Energy, and are able to show-up on the Monthly Reports… I just bought an Aeotec HEM Gen5 and it is configured on Smartthings but doesn’t show up in Smartthings Energy, I want to avoid this type of problems.

Also want to avoid turning the wire in some sort of socket just to add a Smart Plug to it. I have a couple of Aqara Smart Plugs and they are amazing and compatible with Smartthings Energy

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Wi-Fi has much longer range and much stronger signal than Zigbee. Plus, it just has to connect to your Wi-Fi network, not your Zigbee one.

It’s almost always going to be easier to find something that connects well using Wi-Fi than Zigbee, particularly for longer distances or areas where there’s a lot of metal or concrete or other materials that can block out weaker signals.

As for what works with SmartThings energy, that can be tricky to figure out in advance, sometimes you just have to research model by model. :thinking:

I have edited your topic title to add the SmartThings energy reference. Hopefully you will hear from some other community members who have that working with specific devices.

Unfortunately the first Smart Plugs I bought are from Frient. They are better looking and smaller but don’t feed into Smartthings Energy. After that I got some from Aqara, fortunately they work with Smartthings.

That is what I’m trying to avoid, spending money and then having the devices that don’t fulfill what I want laying around the house.

As far as Wifi goes I’m not disagreeing but had some cases of tricky connections specially when the devices will be closed inside wood furniture, and the case of the Oven is going to be like that.

I was thinking of Zigbee because I have some Zigbee devices just outside of the furniture that could act as relays and help.

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No harm in trying, but I would still bet a virtual beer that a Wi-Fi device in the same location would have an easier time connecting. :man_shrugging:t2:

Also, if the device offers true real time energy reporting where it samples, say, every five seconds or so, you’re going to flood your Zigbee network with a very possible outcome of degrading the quality of service of your other Zigbee devices because they can’t get their messages through.

Same reason we don’t try to run video streams over Zigbee. Wi-Fi literally has the bandwidth, Zigbee doesn’t.

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I will see what I can find for that purpose without looking at the protocol.

Thanks for your valuable inputs

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You probably already know that, but make sure to have these drivers installed:

If it still doesn’t work, contact them. Pretty chill guys there.

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May I respectfully ask why this type of device is not recommended?

The device is fine but it’s not recommended to split open an insulated cable to get to the phases…

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Ahhh, a phased power supply in the UK has 3 (3 phase :yum:) cables to the (pre) consumer unit (at least in my case) so clamps are discreet before they even hit the consumer side - no need for anything invasive.

Thanks for the reply :+1:

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Yeah, I have their EdgeDrivers, 1.5 I believe. But is pretty much the same with the default driver

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