Two GE switches in a 2-gang box


#1

I am trying to install 2 GE switches in a 2-gang box. While I think I can barely jam all the wirings inside the box, two 2 switches are too wide to fit into my existing Leviton screwless wall plate.

Does anyone have any success installing 2 switches in a 2-gang box? What wall plate do you use?


Need help installing my ge zwave
#2

They are made to fit in a standard two-gang box. If you look closely, you’ll see tabs on the sides of the metal plate- break off the tabs on the insides for both switches and it should fit well. As for the lack of the room in the back of the box behind the switches, just try to trim your wires as best you can so you don’t have an excess taking up so much room.


(Ron) #3

Just installed two yesterday :slight_smile: As previous post suggests you break off the tabs on the side. Just grab them with a pliers and bend back and forth a few times and they pop off cleanly.

As for space in the back I always have a heck of a time getting these in the box. With the neutral bundle, ground bundle, and my house is wired crazy with jumpers from switch to switch to supply power from in hot wire. Pushing these things in scares me something will touch once in. But can’t really take them back out to find out because once I get these suckers in I don’t want to touch them :slightly_smiling:

Good luck!


(Brian) #4

Ha! You think 2 are bad? Try cramming FOUR into one box. I’ve done it once, and it was absolutely brutal.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71HXNRz9VfL.SL256.jpg

You do need to break off the tabs,but that’s the least of your worries. The worst part is definitely the wiring. Because you end up adding four new neutral wires into the bundle, you end up needing to break it out into a new bundle that you chain to the original bundle. And you probably need to do the same thing with the ground wires. Then physically fitting all of that mess back into the box - that still gives me nightmares. I hope I never have to touch this gang box again.

I got a 4-rocker switch cover from Home Depot. One other thing I had to do was buy longer screws because the box itself kept sliding back as I tried to squeeze everything in.

Here’s a full Amazon review I posted on this whole experience: https://www.amazon.com/review/R227LPSCT5QFRV/ref=cm_aya_cmt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B006LQFHN2#wasThisHelpful


(Matt) #5

what works best in this case is daisy chaining the neutral. Put one in the bundle and hook it to one of the end switches then just jump the neutral from one to the next


(Brian) #6

How can you do that when the neutrals terminate into the GE switches? Same goes with the ground wire, which was previously daisy-chained with the old toggle switches but won’t work that way when they just plug totally into the GE switch.


(Matt) #7

look at the screw port for the switch. The neutral has 2 holes one can be your feed the other can be your next switch. . You can daisy chain your lines too if they all feed off the same breaker. all of my multi switch boxes are wired that way. Saves a ton of space in the box.


(Brian) #8

Did you hear that? That was the sound of my head exploding.

LOL. Wow, I feel silly now. All this time I never stopped to think why there were always two holes and either one worked.

You, sir, are awesome. This will be a massive improvement for the next few switches I need to put in that are all 2 and 3-switch combos. I’ve been dreading the task, but now I’m actually excited to give this a try.


(Matt) #9

dont feel bad I wired my first one with a huge bundle and then on the second had, pardon the pun, the light turn on


(Paul Haskins) #10

I’ve found, it’s much easier to rip out the old box and install the deepest one you can. Probably better code wise as well. There are limitations as to how much is “stuffed” into a box.

I know sometimes can be difficult.


(wmbest2@gmail.com) #11

The neutral has 2 holes one can be your feed the other can be your next switch

So much this. I just replaced a single switch in a 4 gang where space was already limited. The Lutron dimmers I was working with couldn’t handle the 12 gauge wire from the load (chicago code is weird); so, every one had a pigtail. Plus the multiple bundles for ground and neutral, it got tight.

I’ve debated just dropping the money on three more of these just so I can daisy-chain them together and cleanup my box.


(Allan) #12

Keep in mind those tabs are there for a reason…they are heatsinks. If you are using these for regular incandescent lights, especially a bunch of them, you can overheat and potentially start a fire if you do not have the heat sinks. Granted the chances are extremely low but that is whey they are there. Breaking them off reduced the load the switch can handle. They didn’t put them there to look pretty and waste money on extra material.

-Allan


(Paul Haskins) #13

Load also varies depending on how many are in the box - again heat rise.


(Matt) #14

and yet the instructions tell you to break them off if you have multiple in one box


(Allan) #15

Like I said for incandescent lights is where you have to worry. Usually a dimmer/switch like this is rated for 600w with both fins, 500 missing one and 400 missing both. Usually. CFL/LED isn’t derated from reading stuff about it all although I would think it should follow the same rations (150/125/100) but I’m not a electrical wizard.


(Ron) #16

Yes, and they also mention this limitation.

Single, Dual And Triple Gang Boxes
When installing the In-wall Smart Dimmer in multiple gang boxes it may be
necessary to break off one or both sides of the scored tabs on the front yoke.
This will affect the electrical rating of the switch (see specifications for details).


(Justin H) #17

I detect some shenanigans here…

From the 12722 (basic on/off) Manual:

Single, Dual And Triple Gang Boxes
When installing the In-wall smart switch in multiple gang boxes it may be
necessary to break off one or both sides of the scored tabs on the front yoke.
This does not affect the electrical rating of the smart switch (see specifications
for details).

The 12723 (Add-on) manual doesn’t say anything, but it should not affect anything since the add-on switch doesn’t do any actual load control

And your quote comes from the 12724 (Dimmer) manual:

Single, Dual And Triple Gang Boxes
When installing the In-wall Smart Dimmer in multiple gang boxes it may be
necessary to break off one or both sides of the scored tabs on the front yoke.
This will affect the electrical rating of the switch (see specifications for details).

Maximum Loads: 600W, 2-gang 500W or 3-gang 400W incandescent, 150W CFL/LED

Looks like the dimmer is affected by removing the tabs, but simple on/off is not. Which makes sense, considering the type of innards in each. I had never noticed this subtle difference in the manual…


(Mark) #18

My fun was jamming two of them into a two gang metal box. :slight_smile:


(Arunjeet Singh) #19

You sir, are awesome. Just spent 30 minutes struggling with the f**king things. Now going back. I am te scourge of the tabs! :wink:


(Arunjeet Singh) #20

For what it’s worth breaking off the tabs does NOT seem to affect rating of the on/off toggle switch. Attached is a picture of the manual.