Don’t know but I know that my electric car charger pulls about 1500 watts and it killed a peanut but the iris is going strong.
RIB - Relay in A Box. Its a brand of relays. Lets you use a much lower rated switch and then it does the higher rated stuff: They even have ones that can do low voltage to high or 120c to 277 so you can use them on bigger motors with a standard switch.
Funny, I bought a couple of these for my brother before I got into HA. Then he got me into it and now I’m the comparitive pro.
Does it work with a stock handler or just custom?
Zooz Zen 15 has a pretty high amp rating - not sure if it responds to a built-in device type (probably), but the custom device type is well-defined by krlaframboise .
This is what you mean right? I notice it does energy reporting. How much noise does that cause on the network? I have been having zigbee issues so have been chasing a way to shut up on of my noisy zigbee energy reporting outlets so am wary of introducing another source of high traffic. Otherwise this looks great.
the noise level reporting is deeply configurable by the custom device type.
Yes the 0.1w fixed reporting differential of the original ST (Centralite) power outlet, is idiotic for most uses. I think I’ve occasionally seen 20 power updates in one minute. If that was the only device then I would have modified the device type (and I hate working on groovy) but fortunately there are plenty of alternatives.
From ActionTiles overall customer data, we noticed that over 85% of all SmartThings Events are power reporting.
Apparently cloud load is not a concern at SmartThings operations…
I read the install manual on the Zooz Zen 15 and unfortunately it states to not use on electric heaters so thinking that’s out. What do people think of this? Although I would prefer a plug in model so its easy to move to a new location, this is 15 amps, notes good for 1800 watts of resistance, and its z-wave which is a better network in my setup. UL rated too.
I’m not sure that’s due to a physical limitation of the device.
I think they recommend that because unattended use of an electric heater could increase the risk of a fire. You’d want to be very careful about where you place the heater, to make sure it can’t tip over, or something flammable can’t come in contact with it, etc.
So the same warning likely applies to any smart switch (whether the manufacturer acknowledges it or not), or the heater itself.
Fair enough. . .and a valid warning. My plan around that is to only have this ever be a off switch with no automation around on. On would only be manual. I was actually checking out some other switches yesterday that seem to have firmware settings you can set that allow that to be enforced at the device level. Not sure what it would take to actually set these options (if ST can do it, and even if so, can I figure it out) so not relying on that.
That may not be foolproof, but if you find a device that can take a setting like that through its firmware that should (probably) prevent random ST cloud problems from flipping the switch on when you didn’t intend it to be.
Assuming you’re talking about a z-wave device, if there’s no setting in the device handler, you could use the z-wave tweaker device handler. You just temporarily change your switch device to use that handler in the IDE, then go to the device’s settings in the mobile app, change the relevant parameter (which should be listed in the device’s manual), save, and then change back to the normal device handler in the IDE.
Edit: even with the use case you describe, keep in mind that the “off” command might fail to send occasionally because of some issue with your mesh, the hub, ST cloud, etc.
Definitely not foolproof but my thinking is as long as I keep it off based, it will be an improvement over having no switch at all. With no switch, if they turn on and walk away, it stays on. That being said, with automation, people tend to get lax with those types of things. For that I just nag them when I discover its been left on which has been pretty effective as I rarely have to do it. To combat the cloud flakiness I have several independent triggers that turn it off. Motion based, time from on based, and leaving the house based. Thanks for the suggestion on the Tweaker, will check that out if needed.
states to not use on electric heaters
that manual is revised by lawyers to ward off nuisance suits by idiots that point an old heater at something flammable. Anybody can start a fire with an amp of current to a faulty device or unwatched hazard.
In the end I chose the Jasco 12719. It met amp rating, is UL listed, has the lock out on firmware setting, and I have found all my GE/Jasco devices (have many wired switches & 1 outdoor) to be rock solid connection wise as long as they don’t die. Have had 2 devices die but not so sure I didn’t cause it. On the upside Jasco warranty support was solid. I wasn’t aware they had a 15 amp outlet so didn’t even think to check for it. They have a zwave plus device now too but didn’t have great ratings yet and figured the cheaper one would be fine. Thanks all for the help!
Where did you see the info re: configuring that parameter? I have one of those switches but I don’t see it in the manual.
I found it on the Jasco site. I ordered from Amazon so maybe I got a different version, but the model number was the same. If you don’t see on the site let me know and I will grab a link. Just not at a computer atm.
Here it is. Wasn’t in the manual but a support page.
Ah I see.
I’m no z-wave expert, but I think that’s referring to a type of group command to turn on/off (ie a group of devices). I don’t think that will cause the device to ignore all on commands from the z-wave controller.
Anyone who knows more about this than me, please feel free to correct me.
Re-reading it I think you are right. Not ignore all On/Off but specifically All On and All Off commands. I took that to mean you could configure to ignore any sent On command not specifically an All On command. Oh well. . .it still has the other positives I was looking for.