Smart Dimmer Wiring Help

[JustinT (Justin)]

I could use some help from people smarter than I am. My basement has recessed lighting and I’d like to add a smart dimmer. There’s a 3 way setup:

Switch 1: On/Off switch, 3 wires and neutral wires capped in the back
Switch 2: Dimmer switch, 3 wires, no neutral

Is my only option a Lutron Caseta? I don’t really love the idea of having to buy a separate hub just to control one switch. But even if I put a different brand of smart dimmer on switch 1 with the neutrals, from what I’ve read, I’d still need a neutral wire on switch 2 for a compatible remote switch; or does one exist? In lieu of a remote switch on #2, could I just keep a “dumb” on/off switch there and never use it (I appreciate that it’s not the most elegant solution)?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Glen_King]

I have had the exact same issue.

Here’s the way forward:

• the new smart dimmer goes where the on/off currently resides.
• abandon the other switch, and use Alexa as your ‘remote’ switch.

[kreddad (Reddad)]

See this thread

3-way switch with only one switch having neutral wire

The second box is a single switch, with one 14-3 romex wire coming into it. All wires are hooked up to the switch. Any description beyond that will have to wait till after I get back home.

[Automated_House (Jimmy)]

You connect to the neutral in the master box.

[FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring

I’ve decided to put this FAQ together to help those with questions about installing GE 3-way switches. Definitions of terms: Line: The hot wire from the breaker (usually black) Neutral: The return wire for circuits (usually white) Load: The wire that will be hot when the circuit is completed to your light (usually black) Traveler: In existing 3-way wiring, this wire toggles hot between two switches. In a smart switch 3-way configuration, a smaller charge is looped through the add-on switch. Some things to know: 3-way wiring for smart switches is different than standard 3 way wiring. You cannot use dumb 3-way switches with most smart switches (You must purchase the matching GE add-on switch to wire with your GE smart master switch). If the line is wired into the light fixture, you …

[rontalley]

Wouldn’t say that so quick. Add Ons only need 2 wires which is the neutral and the traveler. If you have 3 wires running from the line box and your line box is also sending neutral and on/off load to light (load) then you have enough wires…

The only thing you need to do is re-purpose one of the travelers for neutral duties. Be sure to tape it up with white electrical to indicate that this wire is now neutral.

On the Main Smart Switch:
Line goes to Line
Load goes to Light Fixture
Neutral goes to Neutral
One of the Travelers goes to Traveler
One of the Travelers ties into the Neutral Bundle (Tape with White Electrical Tape)
Ground goes to Ground (Already Grounded if you have conduit)

On the Add On Switch:
One of the Travelers goes to Traveler (Make sure its the same traveler)
One of the Travelers (Make sure its the same traveler tied into the neutral bundle) ties into the Neutral (Tape with White Electrical Tape)
Ground goes to Ground (Already Grounded if you have conduit)