I am looking for a solution. My home sits below the municipal sewer line. So I have a pump outside my home which pumps my waste water to the municipal line. (Similar to a sump pump, but heavy duty).
It has a weatherproof control panel. The control panel has an “alarm” that if it is activated turns on a light and audible alarm. I was wondering if there is a zigbee/z-wave device that I could also wire inside the control panel that would send me a notification to my phone?
I have attached a photograph of the inside of the control panel as well as the wiring schematic. Since the pump already has the “alarm” function, it would seem I should be able to connect a fairly cheap device that can notify when the “alarm” is on. Just not sure which is the best.
As per the schematic A1 & A2 are the alarm. Any thoughts on what can accomplish this? Zigbee would be preferable because I happen to have a zigbee outlet (repeater) right on the inside wall next to that panel. But I believe that I also have z-wave devices close enough that either would not be a problem.
On the cheap side, I would measure the voltage that powers the light and wire a mechanical relay in parallel to match the voltage. From there, use a contact sensor that accepts an external connection, such as the Eclolink door sensor.
The contact will then report the open/close status to SmartThings.
Here is a basic relay. You would simply wire the input to the light and output to the contact sensor. You can either configure it to be normally open or normally closed. Doesn’t really matter.
I don’t have a scenario like yours, but if there’s a way to wire up something to those terminals, you could get an ST (or Centralite) Zigbee water/leak sensor and solder wires to the contacts on the case and then connect those wires to the terminals, or even the light?
I did that with one of mine with wires and probe from an old Everspring leak sensor. I have the probe sitting down inside our washer drain tube intended to catch any backups and then it shuts off the washer. Give me a sec and I’ll post a picture.
RBoy, your solution is basically the same as Ron’s correct? I would still have to have a rely in there somewhere? Or does the device you link somehow eliminate that step?
Assuming the relay is wired in - Would the inclusion of the relay effect the reliability of the “light” alarm in any way. This is basically a luxury, so I don’t want to do anything that would impact the reliability of the system. For example, if the relay failed would the light then also fail?
Following the wires from A1 and A2 I see they go into that white Schneider box where I see NC and NO terminals meaning normally open and normally closed which is what the contacts that others have posted accept. Using a multimeter I would measure voltage there putting one contact on A1 and NO and also A2 and NO when it’s alarming to see what voltage is because you don’t want to fry a contact sensor. If it’s low voltage you could leverage the NC terminals that aren’t used for a contact sensor.
I remember @JDRoberts has some devices in his catalogue that you can put on control panels/lights to detect the light goes on/off. I tried digging in last years post but… finding just one post in the thousands JD contributes is just mission impossible:)
The Fibaro motion sensor would be worth trying as it also detects both light and vibration. You might be able to find a place where you could put it where the siren would set off the vibration alarm. And you could get a separate trigger for the light level. It’s Z wave plus, so the range will be pretty good. And it’s quite small and battery-operated. So I think that would be the first one I would try. No wiring required, you just have to figure out the best place to stick it.
To make it work with smartthings, make sure you get the Z Wave model, not the HomeKit model.
If you are in the North American region, Homeseer has a light sensor intended to detect when the indicator light on a dumb appliance comes on or changes color. So it may also work, but it’s not available on the European frequency. It’s battery operated, so no wiring is required.
If those two don’t work, then you could try one of the various in-line devices. There’s an FAQ that lists quite a few, including the ones already mentioned:
Again. Thank you everyone for your thoughts. Looks like through these various options, I might be able to get something to work.
I appreciate all your thoughts and suggestions.
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RBoy
(www.rboyapps.com - Making SmartThings Easy!)
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Dry contact sensors can only detect when the contact has been closed or opened externally. It could via a magnet or relay. Some devices have outputs which can be connected to dry contact sensors. For example you have an Aux alarm, not 100% sure but may be that could be a proxy for connecting to the dry contact sensor if they don’t have any voltage associated with them and are connected to a relay internally.
I don’t think we’re talking about the same thing here.
A contact sensor typically detects a “closed” event when the magnet piece is moved close enough to the other piece that the magnet can pull the thin metal “reed” inside the other piece of the sensor into position.
”Dry Contacts”: on the other hand, are connecting points on a device which complete a circuit when an external device is electrically active. The device with the dry contacts can be pretty much anything: one very popular one is the Mimolite. Which doesn’t do anything else: it’s designed specifically as a bridge to add zwave communication to dumb devices.
As it happens, there are a couple of contact sensors which also have dry contacts, but that was just a manufacturer decision. Because these typically cost quite a bit less than the mimolite, people often use them for simple on/off reports, particularly for low voltage devices like a doorbell.
The mimolite is a much more robust device. Not only can it handle somewhat higher voltage, you can set it to detect with a range rather than just on/off. Or to count pulses. And you can use it as a relay to turn off a 120v device as well, something you can’t do with the ecolink sensor, for example.
So it’s just a coincidence that there are “contact sensors” with “dry contacts”— the word “contact” is being used two different ways there.
For the OP:
As to what happens if the bridge device fails…the dry contacts attachment is just a physical loop spliced into the existing circuit. That part can’t really fail unless the wire becomes physically detached from the contact post, so it shouldn’t be an issue even if the radio communication fails.
The mimolite or other control devices could be more of a problem if they randomly open or close the relay. But that’s an optional feature.
In any case, I’d still recommend trying the Fibaro multisensor first. No wiring required, so even total failure shouldn’t change the pump’s function in any way.
2022 update
The mimolite is no longer being sold at retail, but there are a number of other devices now available. See the faq:
Hi everyone. I know this thread has been idle for a year now but was hoping to get some help regarding my situation which is very similar to Stephen’s. Have a sewer ejector pump with panel inside my garage. Goal is to have notification through smartthings if the pump fails and the alarm float makes contact. The alarm float goes back to the panel and sets off an audible alarm and light on the panel. There’s power from the float alarm so i don’t believe i’d be able to use an ecolink contact sensor without frying it. I do have a mimolite and zooz zen16 laying around. Would either of these work for my use case?
@aai92209,
In the control box I see that everything works with the general AC power.
The easiest thing I see is to use a zigbee or zwave switch that allows an input from the manual switch connected to the line and would place it in the junction box that you have below the box.
I put a photo as an example of the zigbee samotech MS-104Z, it is cheap and works well in samartting.
Connections to make, if you can, check this with a multimeter:
the supply of the switch line (L) to terminal nº 5, red wire comes from the alarm fuse.
The supply of the Neutral Switch (N) to the terminal above the right white wire, which also has to go to the common of the alarm and pump pilot on the front panel.
The input of the manual switch S1 of the switch to terminal No. 6, Violet wire that goes to the alarm pilot and horn switch. It must comes from the float switch, white wire.
Take these three cables to the junction box under the control panel and connect them to the switch terminals N, L and S1 as in the switch in the example photo.
The switch output terminals can be left free, it is an isolated 16A relay or you can use it to connect something if you want.
I would pair the switch to the hub before connecting it and you would already have a switch status event change when the alarm is activated or deactivated and you can send notifications or perform actions.
You can test the circuit by joining terminals 5 and 6, this would simulate the closed float switch contact.
Remember to disconnect the general power to work safely
Hi Mariano. Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I checked online for the device you recommended samotech MS-104Z… and can’t seem to find it here in the US. Is there another similar item that could be used in the same capacity that I can find here in the US?
I found this on amazon… looks like it has the same terminals so would this work?
Fibaro, now, official dth works in cloud.
Aotec, i don’t know if works local. Other users could help you in this.
Samotech and moes work local with stock dth zigbee switch.
Unfortunately no not yet. I am going away for a week on vacation so will decide on one of your recommendations while away. Most likely the aeotec since it seems to be the most widely available and when I get back I plan to hook it up. Will definitely reach out if I get stuck and let you know how it all works out. Thanks again for your help with this.
You can also use the ecolink sensor post n° 2, solution with external contact input and a relay.
Connecting the neutral, white wire, and terminal 6, violet, to relay coil common and 115 vac input, and connect the relay contacts outputs, Common and N.O. to the external input of the sensor ecolink.
So when the float contacts closed, the relay will activate and send a sensor closed event and vice versa.
I have seen the links and there is stock on Amazon.com.
You have time to think about it.
Enjoy your vacations
Hi Mariano. Just got back from vacation and have the relay in hand. Wanted to clarify which connections go where? Im a visual learner so put together this kinda diagram. Would you mind showing me how the connections should be made?
