Did you get the V3 hub or SmartThings WiFi?
I purchased the wifi with built in hub
Excact description here: Samsung SmartThings Wifi Mesh Router Range Extender SmartThings Hub Functionality Whole-Home WiFi Coverage - Zigbee, Z-Wave, Cloud to Cloud Protocols - White (3 Pack)
Yeah that’s SmartThings WiFi, which is different than V3 hub. If the WiFi isn’t going to work , you have a very expensive hub with a couple repeaters. On top of that, a potentially illegal to operate expensive hub since that model uses the USA zwave frequency, which is different than Dubai’s.
Thanks for that
The good news is that its all working fine , except the plume app, which makes sense reading what you wrote
Hi, I am in Thai and live in Bangkok that I use V.2 for 2 years without a problem.
The hub support 110 - 230v that I assume V.3 will be the same. No need to worries about the hub.
But the outlet supports only 110v. I use step-down converter to solve this problem.
Siren, I use Aeotec Siren from US that supports US frequency z-wave. The siren use 110v that I put it through step-down converter.
Light bulb on ebay mostly support only 110v, I orders Osram lightify from UK (or EU) that support 220v to use. Lightify is ZigBee, no need to worries about frequency like z-wave.
Smart switch. Normally Thailand uses 2-wired electic, you may need to have some modifies 3-wired version before use.
But my house use Xiaomi Aqara wall switch 2-wired version, with DH it’s work perfectly.
For ADT panel I have no information, but if it’s using a power brick I think it should support.
Hope this help.
Please consider creating a new thread to discuss your questions so that this one stays on topic.
i politely asked you to start your own topic to get questions answered specific to you that were straying from this one.
you chose to respond with derision and sarcasm.
good luck with your new ST setup.
Well turns out this wasn’t the answer either. Let me hopefully help anyone thats going to do this…just nuke your entire setup and rebuild under the default location. Its the only way and let me tell you why.
Turns out, as mentioned, when your Samsung account gets migrated over you start with a single location called “Home” in the new app which was whatever default location from the classic app. OK. Also turns out that if you use Samsungs “Smart Home” app for say a washer and dryer they only add devices to this default “Home” location. Still mostly ok. Also this “Home” location cannot be deleted. Getting less ok. So even though I added a new location and added the new hub to it and all 50+ of my devices it still was just a second location that wasn’t the “Home” location. So now I had the default home location which I cannot delete that had my washer and dryer and the secondary location that had my hub and devices. A annoyance that I wanted to fix.
After lots of back and forth I decided to move the devices from one location to another which support articles said were possible. I went to delete my second location which had my hub and devices. I got a pop up “Are you sure you want to delete this location? All your devices will be moved to Home”. Awesome! Exactly what I want to do! I clicked Delete. The location deleted. NOTHING MOVED. ( @tpmanley @nastevens Is this a bug or is the wording on the prompt wrong?) I now had a hub linked up to 50+ devices that had no location. I went through trying to add the hub back in. Wouldn’t add. Talk to a support person. “You’ll have to factory reset it to get it added back in”. Perfect. Factory reset the hub, added it back in. Now I had 50+ orphan devices that needed to be reset, 1/3 ZigBee which was just holding in reset buttons so relatively easy and 2/3 + Z-Wave which involved me physically moving the hub into the center of the house and doing a General exclusion in the app and manually doing each device. Good thing new hub has wifi. Speaking of which the “General Exclusion” option only works for one device after which, even though it says its still in that mode, you have to click Cancel and then click General Exclusion again (Another bug?). So there was a whole lot of “General Device Exclusion” → “Remove” → hit button on device → get pop up a device was removed → “Cancel” and repeat over and over.
So anyone that is going to upgrade I highly recommend just wiping it all out and starting from scratch. Start at your Z-Wave devices furthest from the hub, remove each one from the current location, and work your way back to your hub. The new app thankfully has a “how to reset your device” when you are adding them that goes right to a web page that tells you have to do it. Once everything is put back in do your ZigBee repeaters if needed (I have three outlets) then your ZigBee devices, then your Z-wave moving back out from the hub. After that do your cloud stuff (for me EcoBee, MyQ Lite, ST_Anything, and Konnected) then your SHM/SmartLight and/or Web Core.
It wasn’t horrible and I cleaned up/simplified a bunch in the process but it was a huge kick in the balls when it said it would move everything and didn’t. On the plus side since I just went though the process it didn’t take nearly as long to do it again.
If only there was a backup/restore or migration path…
I’ve read many times that as long as this Location is not tagged as the “Default”, then it can be deleted. To remove the Default tag, you must first designate a different Location as the Default - obviously choose the Location with your Hub and Things already in it.
If the extra and empty Location cannot be deleted (or cannot be made “non-default”) then it should still be safe to request Support to remove it, as long as they remove the correct one (using Location ID, not name).
Yeah…you’d think that but I had already changed the “default” location and it still wouldn’t let me delete it. I even forced close both apps and wiped their data (cache and storage) then logged back in. Both apps thought I was a new user and both logged into my secondary location correctly as the default location. Still wouldn’t let me delete the “Home” location in the new app (but WOULD let me delete the old location from the classic which somehow wasn’t the same location).
There is something goofy with this…someone else can play with it. I’m 95% back to getting it re-setup so I’m done playing. If I had to guess:
- Have one location by default in Classic app through SmartThings (Loc A)
- Account gets “migrated” to Samsung. New location gets pulled in as default “Home” location in new app on Samsung servers (Loc B)
- I created a new location using classic app (Loc C)
- New app sees new Loc C.
- I set Loc C as default.
- I tear down Loc A
- I add new hub and devices to Loc C
- I delete Loc A. Loc A deletes.
- Loc B still exists but is now empty
- I now have two locations in the new app, the “Home” location (Loc B) and the one with all my devices (Loc C). Old app only has Loc C
- I delete Loc C from new app. It say devices will move. Location deletes. So do devices. It lied.
- Loc B now shows up in Classic (empty)
- I rebuild from scratch in Loc B
Not saying you didn’t experience that, but here’s another example success just reported…
I’m probably too late for this, but I also had the same issue. I would change the default location and it would not stay. Click on the email tab, there should be two of the same email showing up. Choose one of them and try again. If that doesn’t work, choose the other email and try again. It should then allow you to change the default and delete the empty location.
Yeah, I have that same issue too…two identical email addresses in the drop down. Oh well, everything is back up. (Still have two emails in the drop down though)
It’s clear you guys have been through the “ringer” so I’m quite sure someone can help me make a choice. Here are my issues:
Facts = Two locations with different networks. VAC has been running V1 forever. HOME will be changed to ST.
Q1 - What version (V2 or V3) best for Home? I don’t care about WIFI or Battery BU.
Q2 - What app should I use to combine both locations on the same App.?
Q3 - I like to fiddle. I read V3 does not have a community network development. Is this correct?
Q4 - Is there any experience running the apps through Google Asst/Home? Working well?
Any comments greatly appreciated.
- either
- either SmartThings app
- incorrect. New app doesn’t work with custom handlers, but you can still use classic app
- lots of people do
I’m sure I’m not the only one but I wish they’d spend more time on fixing/improving existing features than waste time with all of these different iterations of the same hub. I have a v2 (had a v1 and upgraded when v2 came out) and now there’s a v3 that seems kind of 2 steps forward and 1 step back sort of a thing. Definitely not worth an upgrade for me as I can tell.
I get it, Zigbee 3.0 et al. and some might find that valuable, but basic support of products that have been out for years now + functional replacement app + stop removing perfectly functional features etc…I dunno, seems like there are so many other things for the teams to be working on. Seems like priorities are backwards, even for the other 99% not represented on these forums. I understand perfectly that this was a hardware design team and a lot of complaints come from the software and/or infrastructure side, but someone still has to QA all of this, now all hub versions, someone has to develop software for the different hub iterations.
Sheesh. One thing after another with these guys and yet another awful upgrade path for anyone over 10 devices. It’s not even an upgrade path, it’s an uninstall/re-install path, which isn’t even a path at all. I would have expected they would have learned from the v1->v2 debacle. At least we’re being listened to, right?
The one thing I tell my team is mistakes are okay, as long as you don’t make them again and learn from them. What’s not okay is repeatedly making the same mistakes over and over out of ignorance, apathy, skill, etc. I’m just…ugh.
EDIT: I really don’t get the business decision for this. I truly do not understand it.
- You wanted to offer wireless support? Use the USB ports you included to make a dongle.
- You wanted cheaper? Ask yourself if $20 was really stopping sales when most single devices cost twice that.
- You wanted Zigbee 3? What 99% customer (not us here) has any idea what Zigbee even is. Just…wow.
All you’ve accomplished is wasting valuable development time on real products while simultaneously making a weaker product. Can’t think of another industry where that’d be acceptible. Slower and less resources? Sign me up.
Where do you enable access to 5Ghz? it doesn’t see my 5GHz network. It does see the 2.4Ghz
SSIDs are different.
I would NOT use different SSIDs on your wireless network for 5GHz and 2.4GHz. I don’t know who started this practice but it is really not the best way to go about preferring 5GHz over 2.4GHz. I blame residential ISPs for this and I think they do it for marketing reasons because it makes absolutely no sense to do it from a computer networking point of view.
I would use a function called “band-steering” on your wireless access point that delays the acknowledgement on the 2.4GHz band when a client tries to connect on both. With that slight delay, clients are more apt to connect to the 5GHz band when they are in range and when out of range, they would revert back to the 2.4GHz band. People using the equipment will see no difference.
Remember, with 5GHz, you get about twice the carrier frequency speed, so you get more throughput but you sacrifice range for that throughput. In order to have good coverage for 5GHz networks, you have to have a lot more access points in your coverage area.
SmartThings is NOT going to need the heavy 5GHz bandwidth. Seriously, it is not that chatty on the network side. You could lock it down to 2.4GHz and call it a day. You really only see advantages of the 5GHz band if you are using bandwidth intensive applications, like video streaming, unless you have a very densely populated wireless network. That would be more than 20 devices covered by one Access Point and if you run into that, get additional access points to split up the load.
To give you some perspective, I run sound for live bands and I commonly do it using two laptops connected over 2.4GHz to the stage box that is actually the mixer and I can control everything and get meters and RTA from the mixer and the band can even run their phones over WiFi to modify their mixes, all on 2.4GHz and nothing breaks a sweat. In my house, I have two access points and I am able to get well over 150MB/s over WiFi when I test it and I have about 15 devices in total on a 200MB/s connection to my ISP.
Wireless is great if you do not like to wire but you give up bandwidth. It is a shared medium, like the old Ethernet hubs. If you have a 300MB/s 802.11N network running on 2.4GHz and you have 20 devices, each device gets an average of 15MB/s. If you have 10 devices, that goes up to an average of 30MB/s per device.
I will always prefer wired over wireless, though. That is a switched connection and you get dedicated bandwidth.
The UI will only show the one SSID if the two are sharing the same SSID and the connection manager/supplicant in the hub will select the BSSID with the best signal according to its own heuristics. If your router supports band steering you may be able to affect this decision.
We have considered patches to further bias the decision to favor 5G (there is some weighting builtin to wpa_supplicant already) but this can go sideways quickly so we have thus far avoided fiddling with the established norm in that regard. Being lower frequency, 2.4GHz does sometimes have better penetration but it also has to content with greater noise from it being a part of the spectrum with a large number of transmitters.
Summary: If multiple APs have the same SSID (including across bands), they hub supplicant will use standard algorithms for picking the “best” AP and connect to that one. If things change significantly or it loses connectivity, it should connect to a different AP with the same SSID/credentials.