cost $20 for the zwave door sensor on sell, rfid keypad/reader $15
Optional 12v acess controll PSU $16, 12/24v to 3.3 step down $2, Door maglock or latch lock $20.
I already have a zwave deadbolt on my house so I didn’t put that in the cost since any zwave deadbolt will work or you can hard wire in a mag-lock or a latch hooked to the door access psu.
This shows a cheap $20 zwave door sensor hooked up to a RDIF door access system from amazon/ebay.
These systems are cheap and work pretty well.
You can just run ethernet or thermostat wire to the RFId reader and put everything else in a wall box in the garage or basement.
5 wires
12v+
12v-
PUSH ( this sends high.low to the power supply to trigger the NC/Com/NO switches )
This is optional I do not use this but if you use a 12V door lock/mag lock you will want this push to trigger it on/off.
COM ( COM from/attached to RFID reader NOT power supply come )
NC ( normally closed ) or
NO ( normally open ) however you want to sensor base state to show.
I have my NC and COM. There is no voltage passthrough from the NC/NO and COM coming off the RFID reader. it just lets your sensors 2 wires make or break connection.
the NC/NO and COM on the power supply use a 12V for the NO\NC and the COM acts like a ground for the 12v+ NC/NO headers.
I have mine set so if a code or RFID ( mine came with 1 and i lost it before making this video but it was working with the RFID tag too ) gets the “good” signal it triggers the push and the NC/NO to switch and make the loop on my sensor then smart things is set to trigger the unlock of the front door lock on seeing the rfid-door sensor change status. I then have my door set to auto-lock after X minutes.
other thoughts to consider is this would probably work with a smart things water sensor since its just 2 contacts that when bridged ( supposedly with water ) change the status too. I’ve seen these as low as $15 on sell.
Also if you wire it elsewhere and run a set of wires to the keypad you could hook up all the wires on the back of the keypad even the ones not being used. Just in case anyone were to try and take it off the wall they would see a ton of wires and not even bother touching them together vs seeing 4 or 5 wires and thinking "its a 50/50 shot just touch 2 together )…