I just bought a new house and I’m having a fun time planning out my ST setup. My next step is in my dining room. I have multiple entrances, but only one light switch. I was wondering, if I replaced the light switch with a Z-wave one, is there anything out there that could work as a “faux switch” to put by the other entrance that simply tells the Z-wave switch to turn on or off? I know I can do it from the ST app, but I wanted a switch that guests can turn on and off.
Thanks!
If you have power there, you can use something like the Intermatic CA5100 and use a SmartApp like the ‘Big Switch’ to tie it to other switches.
Yes this is possible using another switch, that switch would need power though. Then you can do this with a smartapp. Or you could use a Aeon Remote.
As for power, if there’s an outlet in the wall below where you want to put the switch, it’s trivial to pull power up to a new junction box at switch height.
Thanks. I’ll have to take a look at what outlets are by that door when I get to the house.
Paul, depending on the layout of house and placement of other z-wave switches you could also use the application “Double Tap” to trigger the light.
Has anyone tried to use the “Big Switch” app with a dimmer? Does that work as well?
Someone got this wireless 3 button switch to work here: Wireless, Battery Operated Wall Switch
We have plans to support the Cooper RF9500 but it’s quite expensive and it may be a while before we get to it.
As I think about this more, here’s the scenario that I’m wondering if it will work:
If I put a dimmer on the “real” switch.
Then I put the “extra” switch that’s not a dimmer and use the “Big Switch” app to link it to the dimmer.
My guess is that when I turn the light on from the new switch, the light will come on to whatever brightness the dimmer on the “real” switch is set to. Is that correct?
How did I ever miss that 3 button switch, guess what’s I’m gonna be buying a bunch of so many ideas for it already and that is just in a few minutes. Thanks @duncan
You could use GE Keypad Controller (45631). First include it in ST network as a secondary. Then, on the keypad, associate it with the wall Zwave wall switch. The keypads will operate the wall switch (but as I understand, NOT relay info back to ST). I’ve got a bunch of these installed. They seem like the perfect “local” or “guest” control solution (not having to loan your smart phone to your inlaws in order to operate the lights). The only problem I’ve found is that the 45631 CANNOT address node#s above 32 so, depending on your network topology, you might run into a limit. I’m kinda struggling with that right now.
The Quirky Tapt might be interesting. I have the same type of problem to solve - a bathroom with two entries but only one has the light switch. There is a switch by the other entry which controls only the fan so putting these at each switch location would presumably allow me to control the light and fan from both entries.
Thats a neat looking device, but my experience with quirky stuff well it was quirky. I sold my stuff that wasn’t zigbee/zwave, I still have a brand new hub in the box that I got for free when I bought some other stuff at home depot. I would rather stay with ST direct connection (zwave/zigbee) looks like that requires the wink hub or wink relay, but maybe they are just saying that, zwave is mentioned nowhere on the product info except in the initial submission to quirky. If it is zwave, and we can get a device type for ST, then I want it!
I agree, and in fact I’m in the process of returning the pivot power geniuses that I bought because they are flaky. I just haven’t seen another switch like that and it appeared in my inbox shortly after reading this thread so I thought I’d share it. It’s exactly what I need but I wish I could get a GE one that does the same thing.
The Keypad Controller look like exactly what I need. I have three lights that are not controlled by switches (smart plugs). They’re a pain if you don’t have your phone in hand.
I’d recommend not getting the GE 45631 Keypad Controller. The node id bug will eventually cause problems for you (and then, incidentally, for me ;)). Also, you won’t be able to use the buttons to trigger other actions in SmartThings with GE/Jasco remotes like you can with other remotes and accessory switches.
Agree on the node id issue - it is a pain. Unfortunately, I have not found any other good solutions. Duncan, you mention “other remotes and accessory switches” Do you know of any low-profile wall mount ones that you would recommend? Do to my set up and variety of users (family members, house guests and clients) I need to have some sort of switch/remote in a number of locations (currently have about a dozen 45631’s). I’d LOVE to replace them with something that more seamlessly integrates with ST. I could put GE 45600’s up (they are pretty cheap on Amazon right now), but they look pretty clunky and all those buttons freak people out (looks more like alarm system than light switch). Scouring the ST Forum it looks like a number of folks have similar needs/wants. Any ideas or recommendations greatly appreciated.
The Lowes/Iris Smart Button is the ideal solution for this issue (if it would work with SmartThings).
http://www.lowes.com/pd_388563-41166-BTN900_0__?productId=3735313&Ntt=iris&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Diris&facetInfo=
It’s $20, no need to wire to anything, small and could be placed right next to any appliance. One click to turn on, Two to turn off.
Could somebody please figure out a way to hack this thing into SmartThings.
Or, could the folks at SmartThings just make one already. I’ll buy a dozen tomorrow.
It does not work with ST. True Iris devices like this don’t.