Pairing Leviton ZSS10-G0Z Switch

I didn’t see this anywhere else on the forum, so for anyone else having problems pairing this switch, this is how I did it.

  1. Hold down the bottom (off) switch until the light flashes red, then let it go. Takes about 10 seconds.
  2. Click “Add Device” in the smartthings “Things” menu.
  3. While the red light is flashing, hold down the bottom (off) switch again for about 5 seconds.

At this point the light should flash green a few times and the device should show up as detected in Smart things.

The directions included elsewhere on the Smartthings site said to hold down the bottom button for 5 seconds - this was completely wrong.

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Can I ask where you got this and how much you paid? It doesn’t seem to be readily available online.

And do you have it connected to neutral?

Hi Mark,

I bought them from the following. They are pricey, but they have a deal if you buy 2 or more ($87.50ea)

http://www.onestopbuy.com/leviton/ZSS10-G0Z-74011.asp?sin=ZSS10-G0Z

I wanted something to control my Kitchen lights and they DO NOT need a neutral which sold it for me. So they were easy to wire up and work like a charm (once you figure out the pairing thing of course).

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Do you use LEDs? Any issue with the bulbs staying lit because of the current leaking through?

So far I have only used them on fluroescent lights in the kitchen. I do plan on installing one more in the hall which could use an LED, so I’ll let you know.

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The hall switch is hooked up and using a 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb. Seems to be working fine. I don’t see any light bleeding when off.

So just that one bulb? Probably less than 10w right? And no flickering while on?

Yes, a single bulb. 9.5 watts. Looks fine, there is no flickering or weird behavior.

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That’s awesome, thanks for answering my questions. Smart lighting without neutral wiring is such a PITA that I’m generally willing to pay a premium for a solution that works well. Maybe Leviton knows that and has priced these switches accordingly…

There are two models of this switch. The ZSS 10 – G does not require a neutral, but does list a minimum load requirement of 25 W.

The ZSS10-N does require a neutral, and should work fine with one A19 LED.

I suppose there’s no guarantee, but based on this super scientific study with an N=1, they (switch without neutral) seem to work with <25W despite what’s in the specs. :grin:

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You can always try them if you don’t mind swapping them out if they don’t work. There can be a lot of factors because they’re relying on leakage, so the fixture and anything else on the circuit can make a difference as well. The 25 W minimum load will apply to an isolated circuit with a pretty standard fixture.