Osram Lightify Smart Dimmer "talk" to a GE Smart Dimmer?

I have one GE In-Wall Smart Dimmer paired with my ST hub. That controls my ceiling LEDs. I would like to add a second switch on a different wall, but that wall is not wired for a switch and does not have any electricity. Is it possible to get the Osram Lightify Dimmer to ā€œtalkā€ to the GE Dimmer to control the lights? I have not progressed to the point of the codes and stuff I see some of you folks using. Honestly, I donā€™t even know where you guys enter that stuff yetā€¦and itā€™s intimidating at this pointā€¦

Any other piece of hardware (not codes) that would make this happen exists, do tell.
Thanks!

These two devices canā€™t talk directly to each other because they use different protocols. The GE device is Z wave and the Osram device is zigbee.

But they can both talk to the SmartThings hub, which is one of SmartThings big advantages. So you could have the Osram switch send a message to the hub which then sends a message to the GE switch to turn on the lights.

Having said thatā€¦ The Osram device itself will require custom code to work with SmartThings. Thereā€™s no way around that right now. Thatā€™s going to be true of pretty much every zigbee device which is not on the official ā€œworks with SmartThingsā€ compatibility list.

The good news is that most certified Z wave devices can work as a generic on/off/dim switch with SmartThings without requiring any custom code, whether theyā€™re on the official list or not.

And you can use the official SmartLighting feature to have one switch ā€œfollowā€ another, which would solve the use case you described.

And there is a Z wave battery operated switch which is very similar to the Osram.

So if youā€™re willing to use the gocontrol device, you could make it work without using custom code.

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/

Custom code sounds confusing at first, but really it just means that you are going to copy the authorā€™s code and paste it into your own account. Itā€™s pretty straightforward. And if you are willing to use it, it will open up a whole additional set of features and devices.

The following thread explains the basic custom code concept. You might take a look at it and see if itā€™s something you would be willing to consider. If not, thatā€™s fine, you should still be able to do most things, but as in this example it may mean choosing a different device than you were originally looking at.

You, sir, are AWESOME!
Thank you.

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Are you talking about this guy?

This pairs to your Hub but doesnā€™t mimic the functionality of a lightswitch. Itā€™s more like a wall mounted remote than it is like an actual dimming switch.

It sort of usurps the intended use of the product, but itā€™s better than nothing. I have mine set up like this: push top = on, hold top = set to 100%, push bottom = off, hold bottom = set to 6%.

Yes Chris, that is the one. How does the your action of ā€œpushā€ vs "hold"
change anything? If you perform either action to the top of the switch, it
results in the light coming on to 100%, and same for the bottom - light
reaches lowest brightness. Is there no ā€œhold then releaseā€ somewhere in
between max and min brightness so that it truly acts as a ā€œdimmer?ā€ Thanks.

Newbie statement, then a question basic:
To me, it is easier to replace bulbs than it is switches. So if I am
simply replacing regular bulbs with smart bulbs, I have to get my family
and myself out of the habit of turning off switches? The smart bulbs would
always have to have a flow of electricity ready so my phone can turn them
on, right? Otherwise, if the switch is turn off, didnā€™t I just make it
useless?

AND finallyā€¦code is copied from these forums, but where is it pasted
to??? :wink:

There are several options for what to do about switches when you have smart bulbs. See the following. (This is a clickable link)

As far as the copy and paste method for custom code, that is fully detailed in the custom code FAQ. Again, this is a clickable link. :sunglasses:

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If you were to use this device with the OSRAM Lightify Bridge, it would work like a traditional dimmer:

Pressing the top rocker turns things on
Pressing the bottom rocker turns things off
Holding the top rocker increases brightness
Holding the bottom rocker turns things off

Our implementation isnā€™t nearly as elegant, though one could argue that itā€™s more flexible, as you can control pretty much anything with it via SmartThings. We treat it like a button controller with only 4 distinct actions:

button 1 pushed
button 1 held
button 2 pushed
button 2 held

You can configure the length of time you need to hold the button down for it to be considered ā€œheldā€. I have mine at 1 second

So for me, the only way to turn my light off is to push the bottom rocker. Pushing the top rocker turns it on to the level it was at previously. If the lights are on and at 100%, pushing or holding the top rocker does nothing, but holding the bottom rocker dims to 10%. Holding the top rocker brightens it back up to 100%.

I would most definitely like to improve this device integration to behave like originally intended, but currently we donā€™t have any code that would provide this kind of ā€œincrease/decrease level while being heldā€ behavior.

Thanks Chris. That is how I thought your switch was working and that will work for me. The convenience of having a switch on my far wall is worth any shortcomings of fancy performance. I look forward to learning more and you have been a help. Thanks.

So thereā€™s an official button controller device type handler for the Osram lightify dimming switch now? Thatā€™s cool. :sunglasses::level_slider:

BTW, there is a community created device type handler for this device which does give you press to hold dimming, but it sort of an odd duck: itā€™s using zigbee commands directly, so it canā€™t be used for dimming with Z wave devices and youā€™re basically limited to one hop. So itā€™s similar to the people who are using the GE remotes with their Z wave devices. Itā€™s known to smartthings, but doesnā€™t have the flexibility of a button controller.

Pssht. I was born in California, raised in Montana, served the US army for 10 years as a soldier and 5 as civil service. I now live in Florida. Iā€™m not British.

My error, sorry. :sunglasses:

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