Mine are the same except my boot up state is yes.
Transition speed is medium.
then what are all those other fields for like IP , gateway , and subnet mask in there for?
i set the IP in my router to static i wonder if i am supposed to change the option in there to yes
i mean
wouldn’t i want the IP to be the IP of the controller? and to enter my gateway and subnet mask in the advanced tab in those fields, ? i do not understand what all these fields are for then
That’s if you want to create a static ip
You can create a static up on your router or on a device that’s all , you don’t want to change both just one or the other.
The Ha controller IP is your SmartThings hub
Nothing wrong with that config don’t worry
The issue could be coming from your router …
The one provided by your cable company check the settings in there , maybe disable a firewall as you should have a firewall on your other router.
Just add it manually then. Create a device, use the mac address in capitals with no colons as the device ID, then allocate the device type handler as the device type. Will work fine, just likely to struggle with some of the automatic programs.
That’s all there is to it, if you just want the device to appear.
no i do not just want it to appear i want it to work and i want the message in the smart app to go away so i can even make programs an configure it
it already will show up if i manually add it in the smart app
i have no clue what you mean here
“Create a device, use the mac address in capitals with no colons as the device ID, then allocate the device type handler as the device type”
create a device where?
yeah not the field for Ha controller IP
i am talking about the 3 fields above that one ,IP, subnet , gateway
but now that you mention it i just noticed something
i took 2 screenshots of the advanced tab , and in one i see that the ha controller IP field is blank and in the more recent one there is an ip in there, so that is weird
i didn’t manually enter it in there so i wonder why it was not showing up before in there but now it is?
no i am asking if i should fill in those other 3 fields above the HA controller IP field manually after adding the controller by clicking manually add in the smart app and entering the controller IP in the smart app
if i should go into the advanced tab and set static IP to yes and put in the controller IP of 192.168.50.254
enter the subnet as 255.255.255 and the gateway as 192.168.50.1
So I have been on vacation and am back and reading about your experience. There are a couple things I can think of. You mentioned that you have an ASUS router? I was not able to get the automatic detection working until I changed the setting mentioned in this post:
Try changing the setting, rebooting your router, and then try auto discovery again. If it doesn’t work, try manually adding the device again, but record the error that is given in the IDE when you try it.
Did you get yours to flash???
Thanks Eric , yeah i tried enabling the the IGMP snooping
it is enabled but still does not detect it
the error i keep seeing in the log during discovery is
“6546ce95-aee4-4aa3-b7c4-efa094bcb353 10:02:07 AM: error java.lang.NullPointerException: Cannot invoke method startsWith() on null object @ line 646”
i see an error in my router log that says
Sep 16 23:14:54 miniupnpd[14350]: Unknown udp packet received from 192.168.50.254:1900
Ok so new development
i tried adding it manually through your smartapp and it still was giving me the not fully configured message as usual but then i logged into the controller in my browser and went to the advanced tab and entered the static IP i set for the controller in my router , set static IP to yes ,and entered my default gateway and subnet mask and hit submit.
After like 4 minutes of clicking back and forth in the smartapp and going to the not fully configured screen hitting back and clicking on the controller again i finally saw the “configure RGBW controller created with this app” screen for the 1st time.
but i have not yet moved the controller away from my router and connected it back to the strip yet or configured it.
So do you think it should work now? or will it still need to be auto-detected?
Did the error log from the IDE or router tell you anything about what is going on?
It figures i pick the problem router.
It is weird that the HA controller IP was not showing up in the advanced tab before and now it does no?
I am not sure at which point that changed or if i enabled the IGMP snooping before it started showing.
So if this works and i get more i should just be able to log in to them on my router and just fill in the gateway,subnet, IP , HA controller IP,HA controller port fields in the advanced tab manually and it will work?
It seems like it should be working now. The error in the log is just the SmartLife connect app receiving a ssdp packet from some other device that doesn’t have the info it is expecting.
The configuration process after manually entering the ip is that device handler tries to get the MAC address of the device. It normally does this automatically, but if you go into the device and hit configure a couple times, it should pull it up. Also, the configure process tells the H801 what the SmartThings Hub IP address and service port is. This is why you didn’t see the info at first, but then saw it after a while.
If the handler can’t get the MAC address, that usually means there is something really funky going on with your network. This means that the command may be getting to the H801, but the response from the command never gets filtered back to the device in SmartThings.
thats a negative good buddy, I ain’t had much time to play around
I found this for the pins but like you it seems to short out the programer but my multimeter says there is none. I got the second one I ordered today and same board…
@DatTech @Behold81
It sounds like they have used a voltage regulator which allows backwards conduction in that case and is causing a short possibly to ground through a reverse biased regulator (and a poorly chosen one!).
I would suggest trying to power the chip through the 5V input, perhaps on the solder hole mentioned above as 5V (coming from the 5V regulator output and going to the 3V3 regulator). That would be the safest option but may still cause backwards conduction depending on which regulator allows it, as a final fallback you can go to a 12V power supply for powering the chip and then a shared ground on the FTDI for RX/TX comms.
So to be sure of them 2 options
First put the 3v3 feed to the 5v input on the board rather than VCC
Second is power off the 12V and ground the FTDI to the powersupply ground on the AL board. then feed from that Ground to GND and IO0
I will try that tomorrow if I get time if not it will be next week. The good news is the AL still works normally so nothing is blown up!!!
If only the HAL801 was on a speedy delivery. I should have gone with that.
Ive also got a spare H801 in the UK you could have at cost! Haha those are the two options indeed, except when powering from the 5V input you will need to use 5V from the FTDI since otherwise the voltage drop on the regulator will cause a brownout on the ESP8266… If any of that makes sense! 
Hi all, this looks exactly what I’m looking for, I think taking a look through a few posts the controller linked below worked with this, but if someone could confirm and also would I need to flash it, if so how I can’t see anything that relates to this model?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162305799782
Many thanks in advance!
Not sure about that chip as I dont think anybody else has used that exact device before (even though it will be based on the same ESP). You will definitely need to flash it, but it could either be hard or easy depending on what they have done internally. You also will need to cross fingers they have used the same pins for the RGBW MOSFETs as one of the above device handlers, otherwise you might need to convince Eric to do a custom firmware build for the chip you have found.
Ahh I see, I’ll stick to the H801 then, what light strips are you using? And how are you connecting to the main box?
They either have a small 4/5 pin connection that plug together, or alternatively just do it manually with the screw connectors. Its only low voltage and not that high a current so it isnt a difficult thing to do.
Cheers, yeah not worried about wiring it if I need to just didn’t know if there were adaptors or anything direct to the strip to keep it cleaner… Any recommendations on strips to use? (I’m n the UK also)
yes it is working great now thanks
i got it working with alexa too but i just have one question
i can set colors with alexa and dimming as well
i am using an RGBWW strip but when i say “turn cabinet lights white” it just turn the RGB to a purple color
and the warm white strip i have connected to the W1 channel on the H801 remain off
so is there a way i can configure this to have it control RGB as one strip and the W1 channel as another device so i can get it to switch off the RGB channels when W1 is switched on?
is that what the virtual switched are for or do i need to use those program presets and configure those to do it or would i need to use core/webcore to do it?is it even possible?
also is 6 the max number of programs i can configure?
sorry i am new to ST i really only got it for this project
oh yeah i also plan on using 3 of these controllers for the kitchen
cabinets so will i be able to sync them ?
would creating a group in alexa smarthome and putting the 3 controllers in that group do it?
or would naming them all with the same device name in the smart app do it?
i have need to control the 3 cabinet lights separately really