The keypad does not use codes for Arming (away or partial).
However if SHM Delay requires a pin we can have the DTH report 0000 as the default pin when armed using this keypad model.
This won’t impact the functionality of other apps such as Lock User Managment or SmartLocks and they will continue to work (i.e. direct arming without pin codes but need a pin code to disarm)
Do note however that the keypad does not accept or report a pin while arming as this is how the hardware is designed.
I don’t like the fact that anyone can arm the system. It makes no sense to me.
This contradicts the device’s product description
I’d say that being able to have PIN-less arming is fine as I don’t see a disadvantage other than a child doing it and causing the sirens to go off and so on. Granted you might want to know who armed it but really all you probably care about is that it is armed.
In other news, I just dumped the V2 Centralite and got the V3 iMagic GreatStar (really, WTF?). It’s acting odd (misbehaving and seems to have a poor connection) for me with the @RBoy DTH but I’ll need to collect some more data and possibly do a reset before I comment further.
@maddie I’m having little to no joy with the Iris v3 Keypad. I did a reset and the behavior is the same afterwards so something is funny…either I am doing something wrong, there is something up with the way that the keypad is working with Lock User Manager, or maybe a bad unit.
Setup:
I did the join per the updated instructions at the top of the thread. Unit blinks blue, I pair, and then I set the battery option (Alkaline). To keep it simple I am using the latest Lock User Management for these tests and I set up a new user that is only applicable to the keypad and at the bottom of the user profile I select the Custom actions/notifications and have Unlock Actions options “Disarm SHM” and “Control SHM” as well as Lock Actions options “Arm SHM to Away” and “Control SHM” all enabled and that is it. At this point the battery light glows green, the Iris logo purple, and the pairing light is off when I wave my hand in front of the keypad. In the IDE, I get motion active events. All is seemingly good.
DTH Use:
From the device view, if I press either the Beep or Alarm button, the device responds as expected. I can also see the current temp and battery without issue. If I do a lock, the SHM tells me it is Armed (Stay). If I do an unlock, the SHM tells me it is Disarmed. Seems good so far.
Keypad Use:
With the SHM Disarmed, I press the On button on the keypad and SHM tells me it is Armed (Away) and the DTH shows Locked. I then enter the user code and Off but nothing appears in the logs except some Motion Active events. I also notice that the On, Partial, and Off buttons all blink red at the same time. This seemed odd to me but after some period of time (or keystrokes, not sure) I tried it again and it disarmed. I tried this a few times and each time, the On button works immediately and the Off button does seemingly nothing. No errors in the IDE for the DTH or LUM. At some random point later, the unlock does work.
I’m at a loss. It’s like the keypad goes into some mode and has to do a reset before it will talk to the hub again or something but I just don’t know.
When all 3 lights (On, Partial and Off) are blinking, this means the keypad has lost communication with the zigbee mesh. This is confirmed by your first statement that nothing appears in the logs. If the keypad is connected to the mesh you should always see a log entry, even if the code is invalid. We internally refer to this as a “stuck” keypad.
There are a few ways to “unstuck” the keypad (i.e. resume communication with the mesh)
The v3 keypad is little more sensitive to the mesh than the v2. I’ll also update the instructions in the first post to reflect to how handle a “stuck” keypad which has lost comms.
Ok, I did the refresh. I’ll see if that has any long term help.
It’s not encouraging if it’s losing signal as it is about 10 feet from the hub and about 3 feet from a Halo device. I like the look of the newer one but I may have to go back to the v2 if it’s a constant thing. And by chance I happened to do a reboot Friday due to replacing the batteries in the hub.
Also I still think it’s odd that On/arm always seems to work reliably as well as the beep and slarm but who knows.
So seems like the latest rev of the DTH, 01.05.04, is working much better with the v3 IRiS keypad, at least for me.
One thing that I noticed when messing with the Panic button is that if you clear the panic, which is doing an disarm / unlock, the Panic state doesn’t reset as visible in the app. You have to go into the ST app and click on the button.
Could you tweak the code to add the ability to clear the panic after a disarm / unlock? This would (apparently, from some testing I was just doing) allow it to work seamlessly with the Intruder Alert with Alarms, Lights and Camera Pictures app to trigger and silence the panic alarm from the keypad.
This would be awesome!!!
Also - what is the size difference between V2 and V3? I am hoping that V3 is smaller in order to fit inside a weatherproof box outside.
Well, if you look at the top of the thread you’ll see a summary and pics from @RBoy but sadly other than being a bit more sleek and rounded looking it’s almost the same size (approx. 3 1/8” x 4 7/8”). But, it does allow you to use regular batteries instead of the expensive CR123 ones which is a plus and the button layout is better. So cosmetic mostly. But since the v2 is on its way out you can also get it for much cheaper at Lowe’s. One negative that I have experienced is that the v3 connectivity seems to be not as great as the v2. It seems to drop its ZigBee connection and take time to regain it.
I peeked and the change was pretty simple:
if ((device.currentValue("button") == "pushed") && (map.value == "unlocked")) clearPanic() // Clearn panic alarm if it was triggered
This would be after line 1208 in createCodeEntryEvent(). It’s probably unnecessary to check to see if the panic was already going as you could assume you blindly want to clear it but security-wise I guess you never know was my thought.
Works nicely to stop the panic alarm for all sirens - as long as you’re using the @RBoy Intruder Alert with Alarms, Lights and Camera Pictures app or similar to stop all the sirens.
We’re looking various options on how/when to reset the panic. Different keypads process this differently. The v3, for example, also triggers an alarm. The v2 doesn’t. Some keypads don’t have panic triggers while others reset the panic button themselves.
We’re also looking at how to support apps that use the panic event but don’t use the lock/unlock or the arm/disarm features. Some folks just the keypad just for the panic button and nothing else to trigger an alarm. One suggestion we’re looking (which has also been used with regular Locks) is to have the panic button reset itself after a predefined period (e.g. 1 minute), so it can be re-triggered.
Yeah, the complexities of a single DTH with disparate devices I suppose.
If you want to have the panic button reset after a time that is OK since the sirens usually only run for like a max of 3 minutes on ST if I recall. But I personally wouldn’t enable it as if there were any emergency I wouldn’t want it to stop unless I did it or, hah, whoever claims the body. Maybe a timer that ensures the sirens are still running (or if not, restarts them) until the panic is cancelled?
For clarity, the Panic button and Siren and are separate features. The siren will never be turned off until the user manually turns it off of as a SmartApp turn it off (for keypads that support sirens).
The reset as I understand is purely for the “display” notification that the panic button was pressed on the keypad, which is currently done manually by the user.
Right, they are separate but at least on the v3 IRiS keypad, the panic forces the siren (or actually I think the panic sends a status and the DTH sends 0700 which fires the internal alarm). If you either press the panic button in the ST app or do the same in code as mentioned above, this clears the panic and that also stops the alarm. I’m actually not sure if you could have a panic on the v3 keypad without introducing a new setting that in effect turns off the 0700 status…but I’m no expert.
Did you figure this out? I’m having the same issue. Keypad is working ok, but I can adjust these settings and save out.
It’s a bug in the ST Android app which causes it to enter a decimal point by default where it shouldn’t. Just remove the decimal points and tap Save and it should work fine. Also report it to ST with the reference Ticket number provided so they can fix it. See this post:
I know this has been somewhat discussed but I’m struggling to understand a few things about the DTH and Lock manager app. I’ve recently picked up a couple of the Iris v3 keypads. I like the design and everything but I’m starting to have some concern over connectivity, as has been also mentioned recently.
Here are a few general questions (may be specific to my Iris v3):
Hey @Rboy, so while I still have off and on connectivity issues with the v3 IRiS keypad, it seems that it does work for the most part. Not sure why it’s so bad at staying connected, even with a new Sinope ZigBee device mounted on the opposite side of a wall, go figure. Not sure if that’s something that is solvable unless they release a FW update or there is some secret sauce in the protocol that IRiS has with their hub since I would think they would have the same problems that I’m having.
Two questions for you (or anyone else with v3 keypad experience):
Battery life - seems that the keypad slowly burned through the OEM Alkaline batteries over about 2 weeks, albeit with a lot of trial and error on my side. I replaced it with Lithium batteries but I was just wondering if you’ve seen any issues after the latest DTH changes? I know the latest DTH made a difference in functionality but I see a lot more pings with the 0000 status so I was wondering if it could be related.
Garage door keypad replacement - I’m experimenting with having it control the garage door to replace the traditional keypad from Chamberlain. With LUM, I set up a code with only the action to open the door when unlocked and that seems to work fairly well. However, closing the door is another thing. Since the v3 keypad arms without a code, I can’t think of a way to get it to close. Any good ideas or mods that could be done?
Regardless, thanks for the great support. This is exactly why I’m an RBoy Apps lifetime subscriber - you have actual support. While I enjoy writing and publishing my own little apps, my first stop is always to the RBoy website to see what’s on the shelf because I know I’ll be getting something that’s battle tested.
Glad to hear you’re on the same mission as myself regarding Iris v3. I really like the keypad but there are def some bugs to work out.
For the garage door question… are you using a virtual door opener smartapp? If so (and I have not tested this), couldn’t you just trigger the relay switch that opens, and then the same code would open and close it?