You have several options here:
1-Replace by 4-wire smoke detectors. In these smoke detectors the power and the signal are separated so they are easier to work with. For a straight installation, do not use a terminator resistor or a EOL relay. Konnected system (the ESP-12E) doesn’t understand 3 different current levels, so you lose the advantage of the power monitoring.
2-Use a 4-wire smoke detector, but use an additional relay or some other type of circuit to invert the logic so they are normally closed when there is no smoke AND when there is power. Then you can connect several detectors and at the same time keep the power monitoring. That’s what I did.
3-Add a special circuit to the 2-wire smoke detectors so you can detect the increase in current that occurs when one of them senses smoke. That’s how the alarm panel works, I don’t know the exact amount of current that needs to be monitored, but I’m sure it’s doable. Even if you make them work this way, you won’t have power monitoring.
Very good timing on the release to KickStarter! I was looking for a similar idea today - and here you are. Count me in for 1 of the first 1000!
great to hear!
Of course as I get my house more automated, I stumble on to this solution. I’ll definitely sign up for 1 of those 1000, so only 998 more people to go.
I’m curious as to why the ESP8266 NodeMCU and not something like arduino which is where my mind went as I thought about using my existing wired contacts instead of purchasing wireless ones.
Great! We’re launching the new design on Kickstarter tomorrow! I’ll post here again when it’s live.
ESP8266 vs Ardunio – primarily because the ESPs have WiFi built in so it makes it easy for IoT applications. Also they are less expensive in volume than most comparable Ardunios, which allows me to price the product really affordably.
Everyone, we’re live on Kickstarter!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! to everyone here for your incredible support and encouragement. I’ve spent most of this year passionately obsessing over this project, and it’s so incredibly fulfilling to have made it this far and see and hear from all of you how much Konnected has improved your home, security, and life.
Please show your support today and back us on Kickstarter so I can continue to focus full-time on my mission to bring open and affordable home automation technology to everyone!
Thank you! 
So, I’m happy to a backer. Looks like it is doing well. I have high hopes for this, primarily because I was not looking forward to rolling my own solution and I wanted to avoid wireless if possible and I already had hidden sensors for my doors/windows.
Good points on the ESP vs. Arduino.
I know Nate is probably inundated with work right now, but was hoping someone else could explain how to wire up a garage door to open/close using the momentary switch option on the connected device? I’m not sure how he’s spliced into the existing wiring and allowing the existing controller for open/close to work. His video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlv3w3IvJ44&t=334s
There are two terminals on the back of the garage door opener for a physical button switch. Just stick 2 more wires into those terminals. The other ends of the wires in NO & COM of a relay. When the momentary contact is made, the door opens or closes.
Please be careful, as I believe some newer garage door openers are expecting to ‘communicate’ with the remote wall-mounted button/interface box, not just a simple dry contact.
You should verify that your opener can be controlled via just a simple dry contact relay. I’d hate for anyone to short out their opener control board.
Awesome. Thanks.
Yes and Yes!
Wow! 
What an incredible response on Kickstarter. We met our initial $25k funding goal in less than 2 hours yesterday!
That’s a clear message that the world really wants this product. I’m so happy to be able to be the one to bring this to the world. I’m not sure you all know, but I left my full-time job this summer as an engineering manager to launch Konnected in a big way, and it feels great that you’re all there to support me. Just looking at the traffic numbers, people from this forum have been a HUGE support.
I just created another post here on the forums in the Devices category to try to spread the word even broader.
Thank you all for your unwavering support. I love this community.
Nate
Hello I pledged on the kickstarter. Any idea if these smoke detectors will work with Konnected or will they even be able to function at all without my Networx N8-8V2 pannel? They seem to only use two wires and are ESL model 521NCSXT.
Would something like this make them work with Konnected?
Hi Clint,
It does look like that module would allow a signal connection to Konnected. Good find!
HI all just looking for clarification on power requirements please
Just to note, im an electrician so wiring my new alarm system will not be an issue. i have installed many texecom systems and was intending on going the same route before i jumped on the konnected system.
In normal circumstances a traditional panel would have the mains power into the transformer and to the pcb via a mains fuse. Secondly the pcb has a separate set of terminals from which it is fed via battery on mains failure. Therefor the battery must also be charged via the pcb and not directly from the mains because of this?
What is the deal using konnected and no traditional panel for the power side of things? i assume i need to feed the konnected in a UPS manner? how can i achieve this other than the UPS route if needs be?
I have a bought a new build house with no alarm installation unfortunately so im about to prewire for konnected (in the traditional alarm manner with traditional bellbox and pirs etc). I have bought a generously sized enclosure and intend on putting all the kit as par as possible in here including psu etc.
I note some of you will be converting an existing system but i want to avoid buying an alarm panel if i can help it just for the sake of power needs. maybe this will cost the same as a UPS anyway…
After noting the konnected UPS cannot be shipped internationally (but having found the same model in uk) im still tempted to go mains power via transformer and traditional 7ah alarm battery. has anyone done this?#
Given there will be no local keypad to control and disable the alarm, im concerned that ill need to be able to disable the alarm after 20 mins alarm state (UK law) but if the power (and thus internet) are down im confused as to how to go about this without investing in 4g equipment etc. There is also batteries in the bellbox so no issue there. Although i have wired many systems, i have never clarified if the 20 min limit is done in the bellbox but surely it is incase we loose mains power and the panel battery is duff?
I just feel safer with a big 7ah alarm battery in place and all tidied away just incase power is off for some time and it kills most of the power from the battery or is this not the case if fed in a UPS manner?
Sorry for all the waffle! i hope someone can shed a little light from it all.
Cant wait for January!
martin
Hi Martin,
The power requirements are actually really simple. Everything runs off of 12V DC power. You just need a 12V DC power adapter to power the Konnected board and this also feeds the AUX output terminals to power your motion detectors, etc (your kit will come with a power adapter – yes we will will have UK-compatible adapters). The UPS backup battery, if you choose to get one, connects between your 12V DC transformer and the Konnected device and internally handles the power switching/charging logic so you don’t need a separate circuit board or charger.
I will be able to ship the backup battery to the UK ultimately – I just can’t offer them via Kickstarter internationally because of Kickstarter’s inflexibility in shipping calculations. It will be available to international customers as an add-on after the Kickstarter completes. The UPS backup battery is 7800mAh.
One idea to disable the alarm in case of a complete internet/power failure is to use a keyed switch to cut the power to the whole system as a manual failsafe.
Thank you Nate.
Once again your response has answered all my uncertainties. key switch idea taken on board and i look forward to hearing uk shipping post kickstarter
Where are the 5V pins located on the board? The only thing I see labeled is a 3V pin. Trying to hook up the 5v relay to open the garage door, and instructions for the relays (high output) say to use a 5V pin.
they’re sometimes labeled U3
