[OBSOLETE]Intermatic PE653 Pool Control System

It has been forever since I did this, but I think if you get the Out of Range message, you have to remove and add the batteries and it will start working properly again… that is a really vague memory though. I’m sorry. The unit I’m working with is on my parents system so I do not get a lot of chances to review the steps unfortunately.

The pump does not work after changing the code. I didn’t think it would, I think there has to be a modification to @bigpunk6 s code.

Now that you mention it, I did not. I actually excluded everything from the network because I had to, then added the ST then added the remote back.

When you say “added the remote back” was that to the ST or to the 653? If the 653, was it then a secondary controller?

That’s why I am confused myself. The manual for the PE653 and PE953 clearly delineate the difference between the remote being the primary versus the secondary controller. As far as I can tell my screen shows the remote as the primary controller.

Just kicking up the thread again. Anybody want to take a stab at modifying @bigpunk6 code to include the ability to control the variable speed pump?

or just plain work? I’ve been silent the past week cuz I’m dead-ended with just getting the device to work with a multi-switch smart app… Need to hone my skilz with debugging groovy and trying to figure out what isn’t working right, but don’t have enough spare time right now.
I’m sure there’s a magic recipe out there somewhere for configuring this stuff to work… apparently it does for some (single speed). Maybe if we all send emails and call in to Samsung and Intermatic we can get native support? (I know, I’m on crack, right?)

I am ordering mine shortly. I will be attempting to getting this to work, and then move to working on modifying his code to make it work.

Just joining the thread. In a burst of optimism ordered my ST hub without reading the whole thread. Arrives tomorrow. Not terribly excited about dumping my 953 programming and facing the issues getting it paired.

@JDogg016 you are relentless mentioning the vspd request! Here is my thought. Assuming remote still works, after getting paired, leave pump speed on schedule. You turn your heater on and off with switch 5, and the flow control does it’s thing. For me, I have the pump at low speed for 18 hours a day, so any time the controller calls for heat, heat pump comes on. Would something like that work for you, and get around the multilevel control issue for vspd?

The magic button I care about is Pool/Spa. For me, hitting P/S on the remote controls drain and return valves and resets the temp to the spa set point. @magicshot , if you happen to get yours working, could you advise any way to add the extra switch to the code above? Hopefully just works as another switch that bigpunk6 didn’t need. Goal is to be able to remotely turn the spa mode on, as it takes an hour to get to target temp.

Wish me luck folks! A bit nervous that I will manage to brick my controller.

The issue with putting the pump on a timer is that the pump just be set to a certain speed to run the heater.

So if I set the pump at that speed on the timer, my electric bill goes through the roof even when I don’t run the heater.

This is why I need the flexibility.

Wow, your heater must need a lot of flow! Luckily if I set mine for 30 GPM or so, my heater is fine. Much lower than that, and I don’t get enough turnover of the pool through the filter. Pulls under 300 watts/hr or so at that speed.

2700 rpm if my memory serves me correctly.

I usually leave it on its lowest setting and run it about 12 hours per day. But when I knows everyone needs an little heat I have to turn it on higher.

@JDogg016 you must have a lot of head loss to have to run it that high, or your heater requires an insane flow. If I remember correctly I can run mine @ about 1700 and heat the pool.

@JDogg016, I checked mine and it runs at 1500 RPM which actually gets me close to 40 GPM on a clean filter and the heater runs just fine. I am curious why it takes 2700 RPM to get the heater to come on. It is possible the flow switch on the heater is just not working correctly and is only registering at high flow. ‘Typical’ minimum flows tend to be about 20-30 GPM for pool heaters from my extensive research of mine and looking at a Hayward manual online. What model is your heater?

OK, was able to pair 653 with ST, include 953, and then pair 953 back to 653 (eventually). I actually found this quite helpful: http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=24372.0

The tiles were installed but the only thing responding was circuit 1 on the 653, but at least I had communication. Figure I could debug later with the previous comments in this thread. So I wanted to get my programming back on the 953. And, as feared, had a problem. Everything seemed fine except I could no longer see the temperature set points or change them for pool and spa. I could see air and water temperatures at the bottom, but in the middle on the right, they just weren’t there.

So I undid everything, reset device (653), controller (953), removed all the tiles, and went back with just the intermatic. Still same problem. I can switch pool/spa, set schedules, even turn the heater on with circuit 5. Just no temperature set points.

So, given that what I wanted was remote access to set spa/pool. And 90% of what I want the 653 is now gone (I put the heater control back with the heater, but now have to switch to spa on 953 AND heater), I am going to try to get that back first. Opened a support ticket with Intermatic. Hoping for the best.

Anyone else ever see this with the 953?

@Barrett_Richardson Thanks for the report. This is the type of thing that has made me unnaturally cautious about messing with this. Please keep us apprised of how it works. I have found Intermatic support to be very responsive, if not really up-to-speed on their Z-Wave technology outside the standard use case. The go-to-guy is Frank Pomeroy (ref: their branding of “Ask Frank”). Suggest you call him at their standard support phone number - should be Wisconsin.

I find the 953/653 communication to be intermittently problematic, even w/o ST in the mix. Programming simple timers, in my experience, is hit-and-miss: often, after putting in a new time, it just reverts to the pre-existing value. With this experience, introducing the vagaries of ST doesn’t seem prudent. I’m waiting for a big success story, so please press on!

With a little help from (Maybe Frank?) at Intermatic I learned that when you change/add a time schedule you need to be very close to the 653 and then you need to let the 953 screen timeout/blank. By that time the schedule change/update will have downloaded back to he 653. I was trying to set sw 3 for my pop-up pump and I could cycle through and review it repeatedly but then hit enter and walk away… check again later and see that sw3 programming was blank. Did this a dozen times and after the tech support call just left the 953 sit there until the screen blanked… woke it back up and reviewed the schedule and my sw3 changes had stuck.

@CAL7, I have good news. Intermatic wrote back and said “Please give us a call and we can walk you through setting up the fireman switch.” That was really all I needed! I set the unhelpfully named Fireman Switch to 0 minutes, and I was back in business. Having thus practiced getting there and back again, I went ahead and paired the ST hub again. Basic steps are:

Assuming you have the ST hub and app working, and added BigPunk6’s device handler.

  1. 953 choose Reset Device {clears the 653}
  2. 653 push Include button {wipes programming, Include light starts blinking}
  3. 953 choose Reset Controller, choose ‘reset net & config’
  4. From ST app choose ‘Add things’
  5. 653 push Include button
  6. App should pair and prompt to select name, handler, app, etc
  7. 953 choose Controller Copy {another non-intuitive step, this adds the remote to ST}
  8. 953 choose Receive Net Only
  9. 953 should report ‘Successful’ and lock up. {really! at least on the software rev I am on, I think v3.1}
    10: 953 remove and replace battery {I am guessing this is where I lose you…}
  10. 953 choose Include device
  11. 653 push Include button {one more time!}
  12. 953 should report ‘successful’
  13. Voila!

All three devices are now communicating, and the 953 is set up as a secondary controller.
Now you get to reapply your configuration, schedules, vspd labels, fireman switch, etc.

That is as far as I have gone. They are communicating. Now it is a matter of trying to sort out the ST applications. The ultimate goal for me is to get the P/S button, and ideally, the state of the P/S, and temperature. Everything else I am more likely to be at the pool anyway. But switching to spa from the office, getting feedback that it is in spa more, and knowing when I get to target temperature would make it worth it. This is all I am currently planning to do with ST, literally do not have any other ST device for the hub.

Wow! Very cool.
you have what looks like two step #9s
do you really need to remove the battery on the 953 at that step?

also, your assumption of having the ST hub and app working, adding the BigPunk6 code & ms_2_vt/vts apps is where I’m stuck… can’t get that stuff working. But if I ever do, these steps look solid for moving on to adding the 953 back into the soup.

There was no ‘working’ for the three files, I copy and pasted them in, and hit save. They just sat there. When I paired with ST, it identified the handler, so I picked that, and then the handler allowed me to select one of the smart apps for multi-switch…

Really have to remove the battery. Found this online in other places so I guess it is not just me. I found reference that if you upgraded the firmware to 3.4, it doesn’t happen. But I don’t want to pay $50 for the zWave USB dongle.