I have a RGB changing colors light in my pool. It is powered by the breaker box in the pump shed but one romex wire runs to the house to a simple switch. I have hot on one side of the switch and neutral on the other with a ground. It’s in a 4 gang box with other toggles so I need toggle instead of paddle. I found the GE Jasco 45717 (almond) but it says it won’t work with LED. (I assume my RGB light in the pool but me LED). Any other way to interrupt power to a LED light like a simple switch? OR… can I jumper off one of the other neutrals in the to the GE Jasco 45762 I already bought before I realized there was no neutral? Is the neutral spot on the 45762 just to power the zwave radio in the switch?
One of these may work for you. I use them in a couple places in my house that do not have a neutral. They have been very reliable.
Thanks. If I can’t find a wall powered one, I’ll try that!
Any ELECTRICIANS thoughts!?? I checked with Jasco today to see if the neutral spot on the 45762 is ONLY to power the radio. They said that it is and that it won’t send any current over to the line/load side of the switch. If that’s the case, I should be able to use the neutral from another circuit to power it. What is the risk if they are wrong!!!?
I’m not an electrician, but that sounds like a bad idea, regardless of whether Jasco is right/wrong. As I understand it, a shared neutral between two circuits is against code. You’re powering a submerged fixture, which isn’t a situation where I’d want to play loose with the rules.
Also, since you’re dealing with a pool light, it should already be GFCI protected. Allowing current to trickle out through a different neutral will probably trip the GFCI constantly.
Could you locate a smart switch or relay closer to your breaker panel at a point where you have both a hot and a neutral? Even if it’s in an inconvenient spot, you can install another smart switch in a more convenient location and mirror them.
No electrician here either, but my only experience with using a neutral from another circuit didn’t work out. At my previous house I added 2 GE switches in to a three gang box in my kitchen next to the door going out to the back porch. The 2 switches I added were for the ceiling fan on the back porch, light and fan. The third switch was one of the 3 way switches for a Kitchen light, that one was still a manual switch.
The box had two bundles of neutrals in it. I assumed it made no difference which bundle I used. I tied the neutrals to one of bundles just grabbed the easiest one to get to. When I first turned on breaker it immediately popped…
I then went back and looked at wiring and couldn’t see I had connected anything wrong, so I then looked at the neutrals. I had used the neutrals for the kitchen light which was on a separate circuit breaker. Once I moved the neutrals to the other bundle everything worked fine.
I’m going to check out the panel in the pump shed this weekend. I think it might be too far from the house to get a signal. There is no switch outside so it would have to be a gfci breaker in the box.
That’s interesting and goes against what Jasco told me. If it truly only powered the radio, any neutral should have worked (and not popped your breaker). I’ll avoid going that route!
I meant to say in my original post that this was probably two years ago and with older versions of the switches.
Not an electrician, but as a network engineering field tech I’ve seen a lot of wiring. In order to power anything with AC ( alternating current) , you have to complete the circuit. You can’t just have power coming in.
So, yes, adding the neutral is “just“ to power the radio, that is to get power to the radio, but it doesn’t mean that there’s no return flow. Because, again, AC.
And the reason it’s against code in most places is that it creates multiple safety issues. For one, someone might throw the circuit breaker for the other circuit but the neutral would remain live because, again, AC and it will feed back power from the new circuit. Not good.
You can also potentially receive power from both circuits at once, overloading your switch.
You can sometimes fish up a neutral that is on the same circuit branch at a nearby outlet, but you need to know what you’re doing.
Thanks. That makes me wonder how they did this switch then. Does it sound like they are just interrupting the hot wire and sending it back out to the pump shed and there is a load and neutral out there? It’s one romex wire coming in and that’s all that is connected to this switch.
Up until the 1970s in the US it was very common that the switch simply interrupted the power going into the light, and the light fixture or pump or whatever the switch was controlling had the neutral wire to complete the circuit.
That’s why it’s called a “switch loop.“ You interrupt the “line” Wire by making a loop that feeds through the switch and then on to the controlled device. Now the switch just lets you cut the current at that point.
Without the switch, the end device just has line in and neutral ( and ground of course).
A normal switch doesn’t need a neutral, as it just mechanically breaks the hot leg. What you have is completely normal, though newer installations should have a neutral at each switch. Out in your pump shed, there will be a neutral wire running straight to the pool light, while the hot wire takes the longer route to your house and back before going to the pool light.
There’s probably a junction box in your pump shed that has Romex coming in from the breaker, out to the switch, and out to the pool light. If you can get signal out there (maybe install a device outdoors as a repeater) then that’s where you can easily pick up a neutral.