Need help with my fireplace

Wiki Projects & Stories
21

That’s correct. You will have control of both switch and ST. Wiring as follow.

  1. Remove both wires from the wall switch.
  2. Connect that two wires to the normally open set of contacts on the relay. (I use this set so that when the fireplace is off. The Aeon micro and relay are also off)
  3. Connect the load of the Aeon to the relay coil terminal
  4. Connect the wall switch to the switch terminals on the Aeon micro.
  5. Connect line hot and neutral on your Aeon micro.
    One more thing I would do just in case there is no 110v and you still want the fireplace on. Add another switch in parallel to the 2 low voltage wires. This will allow you to turn the fireplace on and also as an ST bypass. You can have a micro on/off switch hidden.

Edit : do this at your own risk of course. That said, there should be no problem but there is a very very low risk involve. Placing all this “beside” the gas valve… well high risk :wink:

22

Dont use one of the aeon switches for that - they have 110V output and will fry your ignition module. I suggest you use something like this dry contact relay:
http://www.zwaveproducts.com/Zwave-Lighting/Zwave-Wall-Switches/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZFM-80-15-Amp-Dry-Contact-Module.html
(I know it is out of stock in most places right now but any other dry contact relay that can be controlled by an external switch will do)

If you put the relay in the line between the ignition module and the wall switch you are all set.

You can also put the relay in line with the switch if you are concerned about safety.

23

No, the 110 vac out put of the microcontroller will go to the high voltage side of the relay (source) the load side of the relay will go to the fireplace where the wall switch is currently installed.

The wall switch will be wired to the microcontroller on the wall switch circuit.

This allows the controller to run the fireplace via the relay. The controller is able to be controlled via ST and via the wall switch.

If I want to I can put in place a total kill switch, but I think that is overkill.

24

I appreciate all of your help… I finally was able to wrap my head around this thing. I’ll post updates once I get it installed.

1 Like
25

Does that mean if there is no update in about 5 days. Watch the news for “don’t try this at home!” ?
Just kidding. Have fun and hope your other half will like it. I know my wife give up on me about HA since the X10 days :smile:

1 Like
26

Probably not a bad idea! Lol

27

Any updates?
I’m looking for something similar.

28

Yeah! Sorry I forgot to post an update. I got the aeon Microsoft to do this so I could still have use of the manual switch. I got everything ready to get the job figure and then the wife figured out what I was about to do…

So, long story short… There will be no locks and no fire controlled items in my house…

Lol.

1 Like
29

Here is a good Reddit post:

30

Hahaha. I Love this response.

31

Soooo…my electrician simply installed a GE Z-Wave switch that I could use for lights (GE Z-Wave) and this worked just fine. Is there any safety concerns or anything like that? Ultimately, this seems so easy, but the significantly more complicated responses I have seen when looking at all this has scared me that the way I am doing it is wrong in some way.

32

That was going to be my suggestion. Everyone in this thread is trying to make it way too complicated. You just need to replace the low volt wall switch, with a smart switch. It doesn’t care what voltage is passing thru it. It simply opens and closes the circuit.

33

From what I understand from the reading is that for the vast majority of people with a wall switch there is no 120 vac in that box. There is only the low voltage line coming from the fireplace.

I know this is the issue that I have, thus making the conversion more complicated.

34

@bamarayne Any dice on this? I have a similar setup

35

@desertblade
I actually didn’t go through with this because the wife was adamantly against it. But, this is what I was going to do…

Hardware - aeon micro switch and an extension cord. Use a 3 prong cord, it has the neutral wire.

I have a small power strip beneath my fireplace. This is a built in part of the install.

Cut the end off of the extension cord and splice those wires into the switch in their proper locations.

Cut into the low voltage woes going to the wall switch. Connect them to the micro switch.

Plug in the micro switch, add it to the system, and it should be good.

The micro switch knows the state of the wall switch and they will stay in sync.

I’m thinking about find this install anyway… I’m kind of bowed today. Lol

36

I really hope you correct this. We’ll miss you on the forum if you don’t

2 Likes
37

Is your fireplace a 2 switch set-up? Mine I have to hit switch 1 for a few seconds before hitting switch 2 to start the fire.

I have not taken the wall switches out to see if there is a neutral or anything.

Not sure I want to splice an extension cord in. I have the same diagram you posted for my setup.

38

Forgot I got a voltage detector for xmas. Ok looks like one of the switches kills total power to the outlets below, while the second switch triggers the fireplace.

I am assuming the first switch is 120, and the second is low voltage.

This is a handy tool:

39

I have only one switch. It supplies a low voltage to a box below the fire place. Wires coming from that go to a gas on/off solenoid, the flameless igniter and other stuff.

40

Thanks, this give me a lot of info. I am debating on getting a dry contact for the low volt switch, or a regular zwave on/off for the other.

http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/controllers/contact-modules-and-repeaters/15-amp-dry-contact-module