Adding Neutral into switch box for smart switch

Looking for advise for installing a smart switch for my gas fireplace. I’d love to say Alexa turn on the fireplace and boom it’s on. I purchased a leviton smart switch only to find out that my outlet box does not have a neutral.
0kH7RmeHrM|478x500 is my current setup.

Luckily there’s an outlet about three feet below the fireplace switch. Wondering if I can just pull the neutral or a white wire from the outlet below to make my smart outlet work.

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Please be aware that most fireplace switches are simply switching a very low voltage signal, not 110vac. I’d hate for you to pull in high voltage wiring and fry your fireplace circuitry.


I ended up putting a smart Switch on the Fan for the Fireplace and using the power from the Fireplace Fan Plug to a 120v to 24v step down converter then to a 24v Contact Relay to open/close the circuit going to the Gas Valve. I can either turn the Fireplace on manually or via ST. However, if the Fireplace is turn on manually, then I can’t turn it off via ST. Works great and no one really touches switches in my house anymore…:rofl:

Here’s a good thread.

Short answer is yes, you can extend a neutral from one box to another without any issue. As long as your are sure that it is a neutral and not a white conductor.

All grounded connectors (neutrals) are white / grey (not to be confused with ground - which is green) - but not all white wires are neutral.
Just because it is white does not mean that it is a neutral. It is quite possible and not all that uncommon to have a white conductor. If the wire is white and a conductor, it is supposed to be marked as such by the installer - but markers fade and tape does fall off and in some homes it’s simply not marked.

But do keep in mind what ogiewon mentioned - that the fireplace switch may be low voltage. — I don’t ‘think’ you could do any damage if it is - since the fireplace would most likely be supplying the low voltage to the switch (like a garage door opener supplies the low voltage to the door bell button that opens an closes it).

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Typical z-wave light switch, the the GE’s, only have three wires attached - hot, neutral, and load. The hot/neutral power the z-wave circuitry, thus the need for a neutral. The hot/load are switch through an internal relay. This, my fear… if he manages to get 120vac to the z-wave switch, he could accidentally send 120vac along the low voltage wiring.

Other z-wave switches may have a truly isolated dry contact relay that could switch the low voltage signal. I just wanted to point out the electrical risks.

Of course, there are lots of other safety concerns with automating a fireplace, including inadvertent activation. Turning/Leaving a fireplace on and unattended is usually a bad idea.

The neutral SHOULD be on the same circuit as the existing. If not - extend all and re-wire the whole thing…

LOL I could see it happening to me because I leave my TV on a LOT even when I’m not home - Amazon commercial or someone on a tv show says “Alexa, turn on the fireplace”

And it must be if on a ground-fault circuit breaker!

sounds funny when you say it like that

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If your circuit is on an Arc Fault breaker, then your neutral would certainly matter. I did extend a neutral from my dining room ceiling fan to my kitchen overhead light since I did not have a neutral but they were on the same Arc Fault breaker, so I was OK with doing this (besides, once the wall is sealed up, no one would see it). Some codes require Arc Fault in locations normally occupied by people. They prevent gas explosions when turning on or off or plugging in devices. I have them on my overhead lighting and receptacles on my main floors.

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