I had leviton dimmers working flawlessly for 3 years. This is extremely bizarre. The only thing that changed recently is smartthings has pushed out an update which has been a nightmare. And i migrated from nest to google finally. I dont think that should matter in this situation. I do use smartthings with google home, but the smartthings app itself is also showing the dimmer going offline at times.
I have one leviton dimmer near by it and its working perfectly. But one keeps going offline all of a sudden, I believe it was after the recent firmware update. Whats also odd is i have a logitech harmony remote thats connected with smartthings and when smartthings reports the dimmer is offline, my harmony remote can still turn it on and off flawlessly…Literally that dimmer is saying offline in the app, and my harmony which integrates with smartthings can still control it fine…I am turning it off and on with the remote as we speak.
I have other leviton on/off switches that seem to be going on and offline as well, sometimes a hub reboot brings them back. And yet again other leviton switches and dimmers near by are still rock solid.
Can anyone help me figure out whats going? This is frustrating and just started after the recent update.
Thanks for the assistance, is there somewhere i can find the model number? This was from 2018, I guess id have to track down my amazon orders from 3 years ago, i dont see anything in the ide suggesting a model? Im also unsure what “call” the airgrap switch means?
I dont use smartthings for much, it is literally just to integrate a few lights and on/off devices into my harmony remote, thats about it.
I have seen a few historical threads suggesting updating the firmware fixed a similar issue, but it had been working great since 2018. My other switch nearby is on firmware 1.20, this one is on 1.13. But im not sure why after 3 years suddenly it keeps going offline.
I noticed in IDE there was a long route for this light if i clicked on the device (I literally have other z wave lights and switches near by it). Although everything in the problematic dimmer lights route was showing online. However I also had another on/off plugin z wave switch near by showing offline.
It was not listed in the route oddly for my problematic dimmer, but i unplugged it and left it unplugged a few minutes so it had no power, and then plugged it back in. It came online and so did the lights…
But according to route, the problematic light was not using this z wave device in the route? Weird.
So i turned it on manually on the switch itself and it seemed to come back online in the smartthings app again this time.
Then i turned it off in the smartthings app, and it worked, but the app cant turn it back on, keeps getting network error then trying to turn it back on.
Works fine using my harmony remote through smartthings though… and right now its still showing online so i can control it through google home.
This recent ios update and smartthings update has just made a mess for me.
The smartthings app also is reporting the status correctly (its off and it still thinks its on)…
I meant to say pulling the airgap switch. I have the same dimmers that you do. And if you pull out the little dimmer rocker on the right hand side, with a fingernail, and effectively resets the switch. It cuts electricity to the switch. I had to do that with mine other day.
Ever sort this? I am having the same issues with a Decora wall outlet….just started randomly going offline? But I can still control it from my action tiles page which makes zero sense.
I have a few Leviton DZS15 Z-wave switches and DZ6HD Z-wave dimmers. My issues with ones I purchased about 3 years ago all went away after I upgraded the firmware to 1.20.
I purchased a couple more around one year ago, those shipped with 1.20. I’ve never had issues with them.
First off, I don’t know if the same thing applies to outlets. A few other folks here have the same experience as me but I’ve only seen switches and dimmers mentioned.
Contact Leviton support. What they have done for folks with switches is send a loaner Z-wave USB adapter for your computer plus some software, the newer firmware, and instructions.
The Z-wave USB controller and software will create a separate Z-wave mesh. You’ll exclude your device from the SmartThings Z-wave mesh, add it to the USB controller Z-wave mesh, update the firmware, exclude it from the USB controller mesh, and finally add it back to the SmartThings mesh.
Seems like a lot of work…I only have one outlet, so I may as well just buy a new wifi outlet (rather than zwave) and go that route. The time to switch out one outlet would be the same or shorter as doing that zwave update steps. Thanks for your help - much appreciated.
Exactly. Updating Z-wave device firmware, at least as done by SmartThings, is annoying.
You almost always have to exclude the device from the SmartThings z-wave mesh, add to another primary z-wave controller that supports z-wave firmware updating, update firmware, exclude from the extra controller, add back to SmartThings where it will be a new device, then reconstruct any automations.
In theory it’s possible to update a device via a z-wave controller that is running as a secondary on the SmartThings z-wave mesh without excluding. Not all devices behave properly when trying that. And it requires that the device to be updated was up and functional on the SmartThings mesh to begin with.
Personally I dunno how well a mobile app can be used for updating firmware in a way that makes any sense. For instance, how do you choose the firmware files? Are they on your phone/tablet? You select them for upload thru the app? Good luck with supporting that.
I always pair a secondary controller with SmartThings to do firmware updates. I’ve used both HomeSeer Z-Flash (meh) and PC Controller (much better) to do the update. It works great, even with more complex devices like Inovelli red/black dimmers that have 2 different CPUs to update separately. My only complaint is when a device is paired with security, the update can take 5-10x longer due to the overhead, but thats not ST’s fault.
Agree, mobile device is useless for this. I’ve used a Windows computer with a z-wave stick and a free program.
Updated some Leviton devices that kept dropping offline (see older posts above). That required using the stick as a primary for its own mesh.
I tried updating several Zooz devices with the stick as a secondary. The Zooz devices required a full reset after a firmware update and did not rejoin so I ended up with an orphan to get rid of and had to pair as new.
This was a couple of years ago so maybe they’ve improved since then.