Hue trigger from Fibaro micro module? (UK)

I am trying to work out whether it is possible to use a physical light switch (momentary or toggle) connected to a fibaro/aeotec/qubini micro module to trigger a Hue scene.

The use case is this: 2 overhead GU10 light sockets, each with a Hue bulb. I would like the switch to turn on and off those lights (and add some ‘smartness’ - if after sunset, turn on to 80% and specified colour, if after midnight turn on to 5% etc etc).

So what I need is for power always to be supplied to the light socket, and for the module, when triggered by the wallswitch, not to do anything to the power it supplies but instead just to trigger an action in ST. Could I hardwire the lights (would this meet electrical code here in the UK) and use S2 on the Fibaro module for this? But then how would the module receive power? Any other ideas?

I’m actually not bothered about going via the Hue ‘scene’ if I can just use ST to control the bulbs direct. This is really a question about the micro modules.

Tagging @anon36505037

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Thanks, that’s very helpful (and fast!). And that sounds great re programmability - is that also possible for S1 (so e.g. for bedroom switch I could program it to switch off all downstairs lights on a double click)?

As it happens the existing faceplate is a Schneider Ultimate Grid faceplate with three gangs. The first gang controls the landing light; the second two gangs control two separate bulbs in the bathroom. Which isn’t necessary - could easily wire them both to both to achieve the layout you describe (I think? No harm in having the single module run both single-bulb fittings?). I suppose I could use a normal momentary switch for S1 also and always just leave it on and make appropriate threats to family members to ensure it’s never turned off… though history suggests my threatening powers aren’t particularly effective.

A couple of other questions, if you don’t mind:

1/ What’s the merit of using the Fibaro Dimmer 2 over the Fibaro Switch? On the basis I won’t be using it to do any dimming, and I’ve had real issues with Hue bulbs with conventional dimmer switches, even where it’s left set at 100%.

2/ Again, bearing in mind I don’t want to dim these ‘conventionally’, should I be thinking about the bypass? 2 LED bulbs, way under 35w… but not sure if that’s an issue with the Fibaro dimmer module if set in software always to 100% (i.e. ‘full on’) with dimming controlled ‘in-bulb’ by the Hue bulb itself.

3/ Quite specific, but any idea of likelihood of fitting the module in behind the grid faceplate? Could I achieve the same thing by wiring the module in one of the (aluminium) ceiling roses?

4/ I assume I won’t get the benefit of electricity monitoring from the Fibaro module (S1), since it will just see the bulbs as always-on?

5/ Will the Hue bulbs accurately report status to the ST hub? (I suppose this is a different question, so I should ask this in a separate thread.)

I would check with Fibaro with regard to the S1 feeding the current to the hue bulbs.

Most dimmer switches, whether they are smart or not, cannot be used to feed current to a smart bulb. The two devices confuse each other as the bulb changes the current draw even if you have the switch set to “100 percent.” This can burn out the switch, the bulb, or both.

There are some exceptions. In the US, the Lutron Caseta switches can be converted from dimmer switches to on/off switches with a parameter change, but when you do so it literally changes how the device processes current. That is, “on” is not just a dimmer set to 100 percent. But I have no idea if the fibaro dimmer does the same thing, or if it just jumps between 100 percent to zero percent, as many smart dimmers do.

But I’m sure this is a pretty common question these days, so I would just ask Fibaro tech support, they should know if it will be feasible. :sunglasses:

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Thanks both, very generous of you to take the time. Incredibly helpful.

@JDRoberts I will ask Fibaro that question and report back.

@anon36505037 In this particular instance (given my 3-gang situation) I might just do that - I could ‘smartify’ the landing light and use the S2 for the bathroom Hues. Although the landing light has two switches (top and bottom of stairs)… another problem for another day!

Similarly, though, could I just wire up a switch only to S2? Not use S1 at all? So the switch could be anywhere, and just used as a scene trigger. Or does the Fibaro dimmer need S1 to power the module?


That sounds like Regulation 537.3.2.4 - Principal requirements for devices for switching off for mechanical maintenance - suitably located.

There is provision for remote location so long as everything is clearly labelled though. I’m conducting research as to if that means consumer board isolation could be okay in some circumstances where it’s clear the light switch isn’t going to isolate the circuit. My local electrician seems to think it may be okay in my case (consumer board is easy to access, not many lights involved in circuit, switch in question in adjacent room to consumer board)

NB: My use case is not your use case so I may get different results. I’m keeping the keyswitch in reserve as a backup option for now. Usual caveats apply, &c

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Replying to my own post to add a bit more info.

According to the folks over at there’s no requirement for a switch for lights.
In fact:

  • ordinary switches fall under EN60699-1 and are “functional” not “isolating” so it’s expected you’d isolate from the consumer board
  • the same is true of key switches

However good practice is to make it clear if you’re doing something “unexpected,” also a couple of people pointed out that removing the switch altogether can make it more challenging to reset the bulb if it goes wrong.

@anon36505037 I’m not sure where that leaves you and your electricians, but I’m satisfied it’s not against code to wire a permanent feed to a light fitting.

(Once again, I’m not a lawyer, or an electrician. Do your own research and don’t take any risks with mains voltage.)

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Exactly - colour temperature. And dimmability, though I’m now wondering if I’ve been too hasty on that (bought the Hue bulbs before fully appreciating how annoying it would be not to have a wall switch, and how much more sophisticated things like self-calibrating modules and bypasses have become).

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Reasons I went for smart bulbs in ES and BC sockets:

  • tunable white/colour
  • easy starting point
  • dimmable (see below)
  • no flickering at low power - an issue I’ve had with so-called dimmable dumb bulbs

NB: I’ve generally gone for LIFX. I know they’re not everyone’s cup of tea, but they’ve been reliable from day one for me, and have a better colour profile than most others. Also I didn’t want another hub in my life.

Reasons I’m sticking with dumb bulbs in GU10 sockets:

  • cost
  • (reasonably) failsafe
  • couldn’t find a decent wide angle smart option

At some point I’m going to be getting either some Fibaro or Aeotec dimmers for these. There are even a couple on my Christmas list!

There are a couple of edge cases: under counter lights in the kitchen just run off a smart plug, as do the Christmas lights. The only zigbee lights in the system are a set of Osram Lightify gardenspots (white) and they’re by far the least reliable lights in the house.

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I hope im not hyjacking this thread but have a dimmer 2 and trying to use S2 to trigger a hue bulb… I have put the network ID into the field on Association Group 4 - nothings happening.

HAve searched aroud but cant figure out what im missing.


That would explain that… I tried via webcore… no such luck with the IS on the scene ID

What have I missed

You are only doing something with RGB Bulb 1 if it is at 80%. Take out that AND clause.

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Thanks Robin,
Thats all looking good except now, the bulb is flashing…

This is what webcore has now.

I don’t use Webcore so am not sure of how things are triggered, but, at present, the code is dropping into your ELSE clause when the piston is triggered with the scene id being 26 OR the bulb being on. I suspect that’s what’s causing it to flash

Change the logic to (different precedence):

if dimmer 1 scene id is 26
(if bulb 1 switch is off
with bulb 1 turn on
with bulb 1 turn off)

Thanks Paralytic…

More like this?

That’s doesn’t look right. Again, I suspect the else clause will trigger when not wanted.

I think it should be (caveat: I don’t use Webcore and Groovy isn’t a core language for me):

   Dimmer 1 scene id is 26
    if bulb 1 is off
      with bulb 1 turn on
      with bulb 1 turn off
    end if
  end if
end execute

Eugh… I feel like im getting close but back to flashing now…
Thanks for all your help I know this is basic stuff I should really know by now…

My webcore script doing similar with a LIFX bulb uses “changes to” rather than “is”.

Your problem is that you’ve got a “true” statement (scene == 26) which is getting called over and over rather than just once.

It’s then falling through to your ‘if/else’ statement and switching the bulb on, then on the next call switching it off, then on, and so on.

Ok that makes sense…

changes to has fixed the flashing but now wont turn off

Tried it like this to see if away too would help but now it wont go on or off…