In the three-way setup, what did you use for the traveler wire?
For the Master switch I tied the line and loads together into the black wire of the Linear switch. I tied the traveler to the blue wire of the Linear switch. For the slave I tied load wire to the black wire on the Linear switch and tied the traveler and the line together in the wall (so they arenāt wired into the slave Linear directly)
Just following up on this - has anyone had any luck configuring their smart switches in a four way wiring config?
So just to update this thread in the event someone needs to seach this in the future. I have 5 switches controlling a single set hallway of lights. Iāve seen some struggles and mostly ignored them as inexperienced in electrical work. Well, I couldnāt have been more wrong. The basic working diagrams in the links are all correct when wiring standard switches. And for those of us with āwalking around senseā that diagram perfectly illustrates the use of a traveler in the context of completing a circuit. Ok now onto the GE/Jasco switches, the primary switch is the only switch that completes a circuit. The other switches require power and use the traveler wire to communicate to the master switch. So as you wire the passive switches, complete the circuits in the box (black to black, red to red, white to white) and pigtail the traveler and the neutral and connect the passive switch. Simple as that. For anyone with electrical experience this is completely counter intuitive. Iāve seen some remarks around calling an electrician they will also struggleā¦ Hope this helps.
3 way, 4 way, 5 way
Iāve been able to wire 3 way switches no problem with the GE/Jasco dimmer and Aux switches. I am not an electrician, however I have a good understanding of electrical switches. With that being said, I am working on a 5 way switch and not having much luck. I have 4 switches, switch 1 to the far left is an aux switch and is working fine, switch 2 is the primary switch (dimmer) and is working fine, and switch 3 and 4 are aux switches and I cannot seem to get them to work. Switch 3 has 2 traveler wires coming in, one should be to the fourth switch(I believe) and one should be from the primary. Shouldnāt both traveler wires be connected to the travel connection on the 3rd aux switch? Iāve done everything I have done on a the three way switches and think this is where I am getting hung upā¦ any ideas? Thank you!
Seriouslyā¦ Iād buy smart bulbs and some motion sensors and never touch those switches again!
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The travelers do go from switch to switch but depend on the local of the switch in the circuit. To make it easier. Do you know what kind of wiring configuration do you have? There are two standard config. For a 5 ways that I know off. One is power going into the first switch but load is at the last switch. The other standard one is power going into the light fixture.
Without hooking up the #3 and #4 aux switches. Do the master and Aux #1 switch still work?
I would draw out the old wiring circuit first to see where the load, neutral,line hot and travelers are and go from there. You can then label the # for the switches base on that drawing so it will be easy to identify.
Iāve read this post, and want to make sure I donāt cause a fire. I think I might have a similar set-up, but could you guys please help me decide how to wire my master / aux switches?
Iām assuming I would start with the master in the #1 box on the left, but as for the details of where each wire would get connected (especially with respect to the travelers), I get lost ā¦
Maybe this helps:
Thank you for your reply! After reading, I think I might understand. I need to complete the circuit with the switch in box 1, and just run travelers and neutral to the other boxes. Iāve made the proposed changes in red in the picture.
In Box 1:
- Insert the common Black pigtail into the LINE on the switch.
- Use a white pigtail to join the Neutral bundle in the box to the Neutral on the switch.
- Insert the Red traveler into the Traveler on the switch.
- Use the Black coming from Box 2 as the LOAD, to complete the circuit.
Box 2:
- Wire nut the blacks together, in order to complete the circuit.
- Insert both Red travelers into the Traveler on the switch.
- Use a white pigtail to join the Neutral bundle in the box to the Neutral on the switch.
- Insert the White Neutral from Box 3 into the Neutral on the switch.
- Cap off the Black from Box 3 - it will not be used.
Box 3:
- Insert the Red traveler into the Traveler on the switch.
- Insert the White Neutral into the Neutral on the switch.
- Cap off the Black from Box 2 - it will not be used.
Does that look right?
Sounds right, whatās throwing me off though is the wire in box 1 going up to the lights. What is that? In box 2 you also have a wire going up to the light. Typically there is only 1 unless they are not daisy chained in the ceiling.
Funny you should mention that. I have indeed confirmed that the cable from Box 2 goes up to Light 4, and that the cable from Light 4 goes straight to Light 3. But ā¦ I wasnāt able to confirm anything else with lights 1 and 2 ā¦
Lights 3 and 4 were easy due to their location (wall sconces - in close proximity to the boxes). Lights 1 and 2 are ceiling recessed cans. I pulled them down and tried to test for continuity, but either I donāt know how to do it right, or the wire doesnāt do what I think it does.
The breaker also turned off the lights in the bedrooms nearby, but these four lights are the only ones controlled by these 3 switches. Perhaps the wire in Box 1 doesnāt go to the lights, but connects to the remainder of the circuit for the bedrooms?
Ok maybe they arenāt daisy chained. Your wiring looks correct. Install your primary Zwave switch in box one and keep box 2 and 3 disconnected. Some lights should work once you turn on breaker. Then hook up box 2 and see if others come on.
Success! I wired it up as diagrammed, and everything works!
Thank you so much for your help, and to āold_schoolā for his explanation in the link you sent me. For anyone else that comes across this post, the key to understanding how these switches work is that the master switch completes the circuit and does all the work. Then, the Add-On switches just communicate with the master switch through the Traveler and Neutral wires.
Awesome happy to help. 4 way switches can make your head spin sometimes with all the wires.
This 4 way switch issue is driving my crazy! I can handle the apples-to-apples swap out but this is above my pay grade. Any suggestions on where to start (possibly already answered) for wiring the GE/Jasco Z Wave in the below scenario?
So I have three switches controlling one light. Here is what I believe is the āmiddleā switch. Wires are positioned as they were on old switch exactly.
My thought is I need main switch here then two auxiliaries at the other two locations. Ignore neutral I wired in (white) and assuming no ground as there isnāt one on this switch and Iām left with 4 wires. I just donāt know how to figure out how to get these 5 wires on to the 4 ports of the GE/Jasco.
WIth the switch off, the only two lines getting power are the left two (black). From what I can gather that can help me determine that the others are travelersā¦? Then Iām lostā¦
Here is a reference diagram for 2 standard 4 ways.
This is just a guess but look like you have option 2 which you can put the master switch at any box you want. Just figure out which box has line hot and neutral from the main breaker and which box has the load wire. Once you figure that out. Decide where you want to put your master switch.
Option 2. Smart switch wiring.
All your white will be your neutral so go and tie all the white together.
Red will be your traveller. Tie all red together.
Now. Here is the tricky part with back. With option 2. You will have two bundles at each box. One will be your line hot and the other one will be your load.
Let say you want you the master at the middle switch and your wiring configuration is exact match with option 2. Then the black wires from box 1 tie together and will be your load. The 2 blacks at box 3 tie together and will be your line hot.
Edit. If you have option 1. Then you are out of luck with switches. Your Only option is relay module at the light fixture.
Thanks Chris (and others) for all the detailed instructions. I only see one diagram on http://www.how-to-wire-it.com/wiring-a-4-way-switch.html, so perhaps that page has changed since you last linked to it. I have the following configured.
Box 1: 1 red, 2 black wires
Box 2: 2 red, 2 black wires
Box 3: 1 red, 2 black wires
Since box 2 has 2 travelers, I assumed that was the master, but when the 45609 didnāt work at that location, I actually did a voltage test. With all the switches removed (all bare wires), the only wire that was hot was one of the blacks at box1, so it appears that should be the master. Initially that seemed correct when I put the 45609 at box 1. The blue light goes on and off as I toggle it from itself and the other 2 aux switches. (I tried the master at each location and having it in box 1 was the only one where the blue light illuminated).
However, the lights will not go on or off. I think I might have the situation where I need to tie together the blacks at the aux locations, but like I said, I see only one diagram on that linked page, so Iām not sure what configuration I have.
Dan, try the suggestion I posted above your post. Look like you have wiring option 2.
I tied the 2 blacks together at the aux locations and it does indeed work correctly. In the option 2 diagram, I have the master switch in box 3. Do I need to determine whether box 1 or 2 is the load? I assume since I am tying blacks together at both locations it really doesnāt matter. It is working now, but I just want to make sure it is safe.