It’s going to depend on what sort of wiring you have to determine where the master (45609) is supposed to go.
If you were installing new wiring you’d run the line (hot - Black) from your breaker box to the location with the 45609. Then you’d run the load from that switch to your lights. This supplies power from the breaker box, thru the switch, to your lights.
Then you would have a neutral (white) running from the lights back to the breaker box. This completes the circuit. Ideally you’d run this neutral back thru the switch box because the switch needs a neutral too.
Next each aux (45610) will run a “traveler” wire from it’s switch box to the master switch. Each aux also needs a neutral.
Obviously the neutral’s from the AUX don’t have to go back to the breaker box on a separate run. If you already have wires leading to the main box then they can tap into neutral here.
So, that’s if you’re wiring from scratch. But you’re not. So, the question is: What does your existing wiring look like? And how do you get it to fit with the different way z-wave switches work? You probably have something like this:
I’m just guessing here of course, but I suspect this is at least a semi-typical setup. I’m not as familiar with 4 way setups, so I might be talking out of my butt here, but the three color paths (red, blue, green in my drawing) are the traveller paths. Flipping any of the three switches in this layout will open or close different paths along this line.
Now HOPEFULLY they ran the neutral from the light back through at least one of these switches, but there is no certainty of this. If there is no neutral here, then you have to get neutral to one of these boxes some how.
The other thing of course is that your wires will almost certainly NOT be nicely color coded like my drawing. But, assuming your wiring is like my drawing and assuming you can figure out which wires are which, here’s how you could set it up:
Put your master in the first box. Connect the black line from the break box into the “line” spot on the switch. We’re going to turn the “blue line” into our load line now. So connect blue to the ‘load’ part of the master switch. In the second box, we’ll connect dark blue to light blue. In the last box we’ll connect light blue to black leading to the light. We now have a complete run of power from the breaker to the light thru the master switch.
Next we need to hook up the traveler wires. So much an aux in the third box. We’ll use the “red line” for traveler. Connect the light red to the traveler on the first aux. Put an aux in the second box. Now connect light and dark red to the traveler spot on the second aux. Finally, connect the last dark red to the traveler spot on the master switch. And we not have a complete line from both aux switches to the master.
Finally, we need neutral for each switch. If you have neutral in all box, no problem. If don’t have it in any box, then we have a problem. You need to get neutral to at least one box. If you have it in one box but not all, we’ll use the “green line” to spread neutral to the other boxes. Assuming we get neutral to the middle box, we’ll connect the neutral to the light and dark green along with one extra wire we put in. That extra will connect to the neutral of the Aux switch in this box. Then light green will get connected to the Aux in the third box and dark green gets connected to the neutral on the master switch.
Again, I have to repeat that your wiring will NOT be as nicely color coded and this would be a serious mess trying to figure out which black, white, red or whatever color in box 1 is what color in box 2, etc. This may be a job for an electrician.
Finally… sorry if this is very simplistic. I don’t mean to insult your intelligence. It’s entirely possible you know more about this than I do. I’m just trying to make it as basic as possible so anyone can follow who might have a similar question later.