Help hooking up the neutrals for a GE Fan & Smart Dimmer Switch


(Travis Lipe) #1

Ok here is a pic of what I have. I have 4 total incoming romex wire bundles. Left switch I am wanting to put a GE Smart Dimmer 12724 on for the fan light which is on a 3 way & then the far right switch is for the fan, I am doing the GE Fan Control 12730. My question is on the neutrals, which of the 2 bunches do I use for each switch?? There is one bunch on the left and then another on the right, both of them have the yellow wire nuts on them.
Thank You!!


(Eric) #2

I didn’t look too closely, but can you not confirm that one neutral+nut is in the same romex as the fan-hot? Making it the fan-neutral.


(Chris) #3

Yep. Just identify which wire is your hot for the fans and the light, and use the associated neutral. It’s hard to make things out in that pic, there’s quite a few wires blocking the view, but from what I’m able to see I’m thinking that you’d use the right neutral bundle for the fan and the left neutral bundle for the light.


(Travis Lipe) #4

Gotcha thanks guys! So I was thinking this might have 2 circuits but now after looking closer I am second guessing myself. It looks like 3 of the Romex bundles are 14/3 and then there is 1 14/2 assuming this is from the breaker. Left switch is fan light and right switch is fan. Middle switch if off a hall 3 way light which I am not doing anything with. Does this make sense?


(Don) #5

I’m sure you already knew this. Make sure you use the GE remote switch for your 3 way.


(Travis Lipe) #6

Yep! Got that for the other switch!


(Steve White) #7

I think you have everything you need. I’ve marked up your image to assist. I recommend using an inductive voltage tester to confirm the hot wires as I’ve labeled them.

A couple notes…

Your Fan light (left switch) has 2 travelers (red & black) plus a neutral (white). The neutral must come from the remote switch. I’m not sure why they did that. It looks like there’s the possibility that 2 circuits could be feeding the fixture, (fan & light), however since that would be a major code violation, it’s probably the same circuit with the neutral coming from another location. You can validate that by killing the breaker and ensuring both the fan & light do not work.

The wire coming into the box on the bottom right appears to be from the breaker (or other a tail from an existing circuit). You should be able to get the neutral off the righthand white wire. You can use the group of black wires (red wire nut) to get your power for your z-wave switch. Make sure you cap off the hot lead in the box containing the remote switch, otherwise you’ll cook your new switch.

You’ll only need one of the wires going back to the remote box. I suggest using the red, and cap off the black on both ends.

Good luck to you, seems like a fairly straightforward project.


(Travis Lipe) #8

Thank you Steve I think I might have it! So I have the fan switch hooked up & I hook into the right-side for the neutral. For the fan lights, should I use the neutral on the right as well for it? Also when I put my Zwave add on switch for that one, should I just hook up the red traveler on that add on switch right & of course the neutral, then just cap off the other 2 right?


(Steve White) #9

Use the same neutral source for both the fan & fan light. In this cause use the neutral on the right for both.

Cap off the black traveler and use the red as the traveler. Use the neutral at the existing remote switch location for the neutral for the GE remote switch.

I think you’ve got it.