The specs are always in the manual.
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Wow. Well, then. In addition to thinking about load, hereās a couple other things to consider when selecting a switch/outlet. The switch you have is designed for permanent, hard-wired loads. Not lights that plug in. Also, if you have the plug outside, is it a GFCI outlet or circuit? That might impact how you make it smart.
There are outdoor plug-in modules such as https://inovelli.com/shop/outdoor-smart-plugs/outdoor-zwave-plugin-module-2-channel/ that should work, but check out the specs.
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The difference between a switch for turning on/off an outlet or turning on/off a lamp is basically nothing. Dimmers matter, because some loads will destroy dimmers (motors for example) but a switch is just that, a relay that opens and closes. The type of load on a switch doesnāt matter at all, just the amount of load.
Itās still a relay, whether itās mechanical or electronic, and it still has a rating on load. If there are restrictions on load types on electronic relays, Iād be interested in learning about that. Do you have a specific link?
Semantics, but okay. From wikipedia: A solid-state relay (SSR) is a solid state electronic componentā¦
More specifically, where does it specify that certain load types are not suitable for smart switches? Especially since the OPs usage is to control electronic transformers driving LED lighting.
That makes sense. They probably also donāt use a neutral wire. Lutronās caseta dimmers are definitely not for fans, but their caseta switch has a neutral and is rated for motor loads to 3A.
Yes, certainly neither the switch nor the load is cognizant of the receptacle/plug being in the circuit. You are correct of course. That said, the switch being discussed is specifically specāed as being designed only for
use with permanently installed fixtures. I suspect that FCC, UL, etc. certifications are conditioned on this assumption, and you and I can agree all day long that it doesnāt make any difference, but the manufacturer does make that statement.
Im sorry it has took so long to get back on here. I still have not had time to do anymore testing but I just had those dimmer switches extra and wanted to use them if they worked. I have no need to dim the lights but I figured the on/off would still work. We cut the plug and little on/off switch off the LED flood lights and hard wired them in a junction box. The smart dimmer switch will not work but a regular in wall on/off switch works fine. I donāt know if the non-dimming LED lights are causing the switch not to work or if the Watts are to high but if that is all it is then I need a smart switch rated to at least 480W if that is possible.
I live in a housing edition and these lights are REALLY BRIGHT! But I need them that way so I can back a trailer into the new building at night. They will not stay on all the time but I am impressed with how bright they are! My goal with having a smart switch is to link it to Smartthings so I can have them turn on at night when I open the Garage Door.
Would this one work?
That should work just fine. Itās rated for 960W, which is well above your requirement.
OK I tried the new switch listed above and it worked. Connected to my hub and everything. Now I have a new problem. The new garage that I have is a metal building and my house is brick. The switch and the hub are probably 30 to 35 feet apart but thru the brick and then metal building. I have a GE plug-in EZ smart switch plugged into the wall closest to the metal building. With the man door open on the metal building the switch connects to the hub and works perfectly fine. When I close the man door it drops connection. Any recommendations on how to get the signal into the metal building?
Sounds like you need a wired repeater. Metal buildings are like signal cages.