GE Z-wave add-on switch wiring

I’ve since done another 3 way install without issue in the house and tried multiple add ons in the problem location.

Worth noting that both of the easy installs had the red wire near the ground and on this add on that doesn’t work the existing wiring had the red one at the bottom. I know colors don’t mean much but its a notable difference from the ones that work and this one.

Here’s pics. I had just cut them loose and decided I should take a pick so re-wired them for that. Note the hot wire is taped.

Thanks for the pictures, I’m going to ask @Navat604 (Ray) if he’ll jump in and help. Before we go any further.

Sorry, I couldn’t make out the picture above. Possible you can take pictures of both switches of the same circuit and very important to identify the Common terminal of the switch. I couldn’t make out from that pic which is the common but assume it’s the one where the black wire with the tape.
You should be able to measure the load wire at the aux location by putting the meter between neutral and the C terminal of the aux switch and toggle the switches. 120V when light on and 0V when off.
As for traveler having 120V. The smart master switch supplies 120V to the traveler. This is not the same as the power source 120V of course. To test it. Just remove the traveler wire from the master switch. You should get 0V. If not then your circuit is something else.
You mentioned the master is working. Does it work with all the wires separate and cap at the aux location? At least with just relay clicking when toggle the switch? If the relay is clicking. put your Meter on neutral and with the switch in the on position. Check for the wire with 120V at your aux location. Once you find it. Turn the switch off and confirm 0V. That’s your load.

Master switch only works with red and a black tied together, which is how I have the aux installed… load tied to common and the other black in the traveler input. Basically the same as my other 2 installs but red is load and black is traveler. Same wiring as in the instructions.

“Traveler” does indeed go to 0V when unplugged, just scared me since they say NO 120V on the master traveler input! I see what you mean though the switches use up to system voltage to control.

Starting to think I will have to get to the light fixtures which is in the attic and its a low attic. Another note is that I pulled each can light down as if to replace the bulbs and can only see stubs of black and white wire “inside” the cans, which are not what we are looking for so will have to get into the wiring box above to see what the real wires are doing.

Might just get a non wired sensor to talk to the hub… or a cheaper yet $30 Fire tablet mounted there with tiles :slight_smile:

So with this. With this red in the traveler and white in neutral of your aux switch. It didn’t work? All the white wires tie together at both switch boxes?

Hey @Navat604 this sounds familiar to the last time you helped in this thread.

I believe @langevinrox had his hooked up like this EARLY in that thread.

If memory serves me right.

Ya thats right Ray the aux switch will turn off the lights… pressing it up or down. Neutrals all together which were bundled in the boxes so they really are neutrals.

I’ve read all the threads about this topic and appreciate the help. Will keep trying this weekend and let you guys know if anything works. I am taking a few days off away to come at it fresh :slight_smile:

According to this statement. I assumed he has 2 black, 2 white and a red at the aux. 2 black, 2 white and 1 red at master. That was why I was hoping for a picture to confirm.

The pictures above show what I have at each box … a white bundle, 2 black, and 1 red wire.

I consider the White bundle 1 white (a white jumper that I add to the existing bundle).

This is the only 3 way I have done in the house where the red wires are not wired in the same location on the old switches, hence I think there is something different in the ceiling that will need addressed.

I see. I see both pictures above with tapes on the black wire on the Common terminals that was why I thought they are not from the same circuit. Usually you will only put tape on the line hot if it connected to the source and not through a switch.
Is that your circuit? Line hot on both of the taped black wires regardless of switch positions?

Sorry… no its line hot at the Master and only hot when Master is switched on at the Aux.

Is that your common terminals? Darker color screw compare to the other 2 terminals on the same switch?

Yes indeed thats the black screw

OK, that black wire is your load wire. You should be able to tell by looking at the romex and it should be a 14/2.
The 14/3 red, black and white is the one going back to your master switch and the red and black of this romex connected to the 2 gold or white terminals of the aux switch correct?

Thanks for all the input I haven’t gone back at it yet, I’m waiting on some items to be delivered before I go back into the wiring… a GE keypad controller and a set of linear 3 ways which are wireless and don’t require the traveler.

Just want to have options in case I can’t get the wiring without going into the very tight and high attic.

what model is the keypad controller? if its the one i’m thinking of, it doesn’t work with smartthings as a button controller.

This one…

GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pwLyb6EFBS8B

yeah. Not sure how you intend to use it, but it doesn’t work as a button controller like a minimote does when you can takes action in SmartThings based on X button being pressed. it’s a secondary controller that you can use to directly control devices.

Ah that’s lame!

So I followed the instructions in the package and had no problem assigning my Lights to the up / down arrows, which act just like a dimmer switch.

I’m very pleased with this device since it can do 4 different switches or groups, and potentially other functions. And it can be mounted on the walls with a command strip to look just like a gang switch!

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