GE/JASCO 12724 keeps blowing

wallswitch
z-wave

(Ryan) #1

We remodeled the house and went with the GE dimmers switched and Add on switches. We have been using the system for about a year.

Then over the weekend, on dimmer switch blew and combo gfci/afci breaker tripped. Replaced the dimmer with a new one. it worked for a day, then it blew as well.

What is odd, is that this branch circuit comes into the 3 gang box feeds three dimmers in the box. The only difference is that it is wired in a three way configuration and powers six LED can lights. (about 10 watts each)

It has been very hot as of late, 97 or so, but I doubt that I exceed the operating temp of 104.

I just don’t know what changed to make the switch blow.

Any thoughts?


#2

Make sure all your wire nuts are tight at the switches and at the lights if you can. Maybe one of the LED lights is causing it also. Try to isolate them one at a time and leave the others off for a while and see if it blows again.


(Ryan) #3

Thanks manowar. I am going to start isolating the cans one by one and run a continutiy test to see f I can find the culprit. I use wago connectors not nuts, so I know the connection is solid.


#4

Seems this guy had a similar problem with LED lights.


(Mike) #5

I had a GE switch that I installed on an ARC Fault breaker and every few days it would trip. I couldn’t find any issues with my wiring so I finally tried changing out the breaker. That fixed it. In my case the breaker was about 12 years old, it was in there since the house was built in 2005.


(Rich) #6

It appears that the switch is rated for 500w not 600w which would definitely cause issues.


(Ryan) #7

@Terminal, I don’t think it is the breaker, as it is a branch circuit feeding two 4 other dimmers and they are not having any issues. Plus the breakers are less than a year old. Not that they couldn’t go bad, but I am thinking the LED cans are the issue.


(Ryan) #8

@Ex70s, the dimmer is rated for 150W CFL/LED so it has more than enough to cover the 60 or watts from the LED lights.

Something changed on the load side. As this dimmer has been working flawlessly for over a year.


(Rich) #9

Check for a loose common(white wire) somewhere in the run, having the hot go to any electronic device without the common even for a split second will fry the device. And yes, you are correct 150 LED my bad.


(Ryan) #10

@Ex70s Yeah I started tearing apart the wiring… and really haven’t found anything that would lead me to believe it is the wiring. The nuts are wago’s which clamp the wire individually.

I think I will have to replace the switch and add one can light back in at a time. The problem is the only way to find the culprit is to ruin another dimmer. Argh


(Ray) #11

Here’s what I would do. Since wiring, light bulbs or switch could be the cause. Assuming they are all using the same breaker and same neutral wire from the circuit breaker.
Move the load wire from the suspect dimmer (1) to the dimmer(2) beside it. Move the line,neutral and traveler to the dimmer(3). This should isolate most of the fault for you.
Personally, I think it’s a heat issue causing the dimmer to failed and tripped the breaker. Even though it’s below wattage spec but because it’s a 3 switch gangbox with 3 smart switches and probably with most of the heat fins broken off for proper sitting. Is this switch in the middle?
It’s also easier to move the LED bulbs to a none dimmable switch.


(Ryan) #12

@Navat604, Heat is also what I suspect. The ambient temp has been higher due to a heat wave. But I doubt it cracked 104 in the 3 gang box.

When I replaced the first dead dimmer with a new one, I left on side of the fins on. The dimmer is on the end. In the specs it only shows a decreased wattage for incandescent bulbs (500 down from 600). It still lists a 150 watt for LED.

As for your wiring suggestions, I understand the directions, but not seeing how this isolates the problem.

Thanks for the advice


(Ray) #13

This is to isolate the load/neutral romex away from the line/neutral romex. Unless the line/neutral are pigtailed off from the same connectors for the other 2 dimmers.
One other thing is. What dimming level do you usually set it at and the dimmer blew after leaving the lights on for a period? The reason for this question is because certain dimmer/LED create more heat at low dimming level.


(Ryan) #14

@Navat604
that makes sense. But yes neutrals are tide together. I really think it is a heat/load issue. The only discrepancy is the length in time for which the first dimmer lasted (about a year). The replaced one. lasted less than 12 hours. That is what makes me think the load side has changed.

As for the dimmer, it is our living room so it is mostly on 100%.

This morning I found a Leviton zwave dimmer rated a 1K watts in my garage. installed that (with out the companion switch as the dimmer was a three way) and left them on at about 50% to see if I can replicate the problem.

time will tell.

I really do appreciate the help.

Thanks,