GE 45609 and 45610 3 way switch help


(Wkmaylish) #1

I have been trying to wire these switched for the last few days with no luck. I have read through several posts but everyone’s situation is a bit different.

I have been able to get the primary switch working and connected to the hub but I can not get the aux switches working.

You can view my wiring diagram here: http://maylish.net/wiring%20diagram.pdf

I currently have everything disconnected.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


(Im Brian) #2

I had trouble with my secondary switch as well. Do you have a standard 2-way switch? I happened to have one on-hand, and I swapped it out for the master 3-way and it worked. I had a faulty master 3-way switch (that worked, but would not listen to the transfer wire). Using a volt meter, I could see the signal was coming in, but the master was apparently not acting on it.

Other posts you may find helpful:
http://build.smartthings.com/forums/topic/wiring-3way-ge-jasco-switch/
http://build.smartthings.com/forums/topic/problem-with-jasco-3-way-switch/

Also be aware that the Jasco switches do not act like standard 3-way switches. A standard 3-way has line in - and load out, but also carries the transfer wire to the secondary switch - not used for alternate load, but to carry this signal. Your wires should be:

Black: load OR line (use a volt meter to be sure)
Green: Ground
White: Common
Red: Transfer


(Wkmaylish) #3

I am going to make a mock up like this video:

This way I can verify that it is not the switches causing my headache.


(Chrisb) #4

Okay @wkmaylish,

Here’s how I’d do it:

Note that you don’t need to use the Blue wiring runs at all… just the Green. The yellow stars are the lights, the green stars are the Aux Switches. I’m assuming that the first switch it the master. If not, let me know… that will change some of the setup here.

The red wire that is inside the green runs will be our traveler wire. This wire is what is used to signal back to the master switch that an aux switch has been pressed. The red wire will not be connected to the lights at all. Just the switches.

The black wire is obviously the load wire. This needs to be connected to each light. When the master is turned on (Either physically at the switch or when an Aux tells it to turn on) it sends power down the black wire to each light. The black wire does NOT need to be connected to the AUX… and really it shouldn’t. The Aux is not designed to handle that load of voltage.

The white wire is obviously the neutral. This needs to be connected to each light AND each switch. But you can use the same “run” for all neutral so no need to get that run of Blue wires involved. We can just use the neutral from the Green wires for everything.


(Chrisb) #5

Darn it… I always forget to talk about the ground wires. Connect ground just like you would the neutral. Same ground for all lights and switches.


(Wkmaylish) #6

Thanks for the drawing… This is the exact setup I just had to no avail.

The one thing I will have to check is the ground wire. I had them hooked up but the second switch may have been to the wrong line.


(Chrisb) #7

Hmm… Okay, so master in the first spot (left most switch) works for turning on and off all lights, right?

We’ve got the red wire going from the traveler spot on the master switch thru to the traveler spot on the first aux switch AND you have neutral connected to the neutral spot on the first aux switch., right?

But the aux switch isn’t working.

Here’s what I’d do next to test it… take the master out of the wall. Leave it wired up properly, but have it accessible. Next, grab one of your aux switches and wire it directly to the master: traveler to traveler. Obviously have to hook up neutral here too. Obviously be careful here when you turn power back on as you’ve got exposed wiring here, but try the aux switch this way, see if it works.

If so, then there’s a problem with the wiring somewhere. If not, then we’re sure the aux switch is the problem. Do the same with the second aux switch.


(Wkmaylish) #8

Switch 1 is the master.

Red wire is going from switch to switch as the traveler and the neutral (white) is connected to each switch.

As soon as I get home I will try your test and let you know the results.

Thanks.


(Wkmaylish) #9

I ran the test like you said and the switch still did not work. I had 3 other aux switches so I tried them all and the same thing. I made the assumption it was the master switch and went to Amazon to get a replacement. I just got it (one of many reasons I love Amazon) and switched it out…everything now works.

Thanks for the help.


(Chrisb) #10

Glad it’s working for you. Obviously your assumption (re: Bad master) was correct.