GE 45609 and 45610 3 way switch Auxilliary not working

Before I assume that there my Master switch is not working properly as I have read previously I wanted to make sure everything is wired properly. I have the master paired and it works perfectly. The original switch was wired with a three wire red, white, and black wire. I used a tione and probe just to make sure that I had the right wires, which I do. At the I used the red and the white wire to connect the auxiliary. The red was connected to the traveler on both sides and the white was connected to the neutral in the auxiliary and the neutral at the master which is also wired to a group of three other neutral wires that were in a bunch together.

As an additional point, when I tested the voltage at the auxiliary, I get small reading and I am getting no reading from the neutral wire. Any thoughts before I assume that it is a bad master switch.

I’m having the same problem I think. I have installed 3 sets of these, and 2 worked perfectly. When I installed the third pair, for some reason I can’t figure out yet, the Master works but the Auxiliary does not. I thought perhaps it was a bad auxiliary switch, so I changed that out and still no joy.

Did you end up replacing the Master switch? and did that help?


I am pretty sure my problem was the master which that was the problem. I first replaced the auxiliary switch twice and got no joy. Then I replaced the whole unit including the master and everything is working perfectly now.

I had this same problem with my 3 way switch about 2 months ago. It was driving me crazy. It turned out that the traveler wire on the master switch wasn’t carrying the signal to the aux. I replaced both master and slave switches and it works perfectly now.

I think GE sent out a bad batch of these. I spent 2 weekends having the same issues as everybody in this thread and finally called an electrician. Two hours later he noticed the master wasn’t sending proper voltage down the traveler.

Did anybody happen to notice the date sticker on the back of the bad switches? Might be helpful for others having the same issues if we could identify the bad batch using this number. I believe mine was 1337 or something similar.

I’m glad I came across this thread while troubleshooting my AUX switch. I also had purchased from Amazon (months ago) and was absolutely sure my wiring was right, but the stupid AUX switch would not work. So, after reading the replies here, I headed down to Lowes and picked up a replacement, and sure enough, with the exact same wiring the new AUX switch works perfectly. The sticker on my broken unit says “1301” for what it’s worth. I hope I’m not so late in installing this that I can’t return the broken unit to Amazon . . .

I finally got around to replacing the Master switch, and that fixed my problem! Thank you everyone.

The date on the back of my bad switch says “1301” as well. I guess maybe that was a faulty batch? Oh well, I have a spot where I can use a non-3 way switch, so I’ll just use it there.

I just installed these in my Kitchen (Purchased from Lowes) and have the same problem, the Master works but not the aux. I took one set back and have the same problem with the second set. I contacted the customer support number and was told that the problem was impedance on the line.

I have to say I hate these switches - they are a complete pain to install - the screws don’t come out enough to actually use the screw terminals as I would on a normal switch. Also having to break off those tabs when installing in a multi-gang j-box is a pain. My next purchase will be looking for a different brand.

From everything that I have read, it’s always the master not the auxiliary that has the problem, that was the problem with mine. It took me several returns before I got one that worked. The wiring is fairly basic, but I agree having wired and exchanged several masters, the screws are horrendous.