I’m new to the ha world an at the moment pulling my hair out, not that I have much anyway, after reading a lot about switches/dimmers I plumbed for the Fibaro 212, I am an retired electrician so understand wiring and have decided due to the small back boxes that we use in the UK to fir these devices at the ceiling rose where I also have a neutral. Fitted the first device because all of the information that I had read stated that if you have a neutral then no device in parallel to the load was required, anyway, fitted the device, turned the power back on and the LED’s faintly glowed, the FIBARO DIDNT GO INTO DISCOVERY mode. Turned the light on at the switch and the lights went to full brightness but then couldn’t turn the light back off, after several attempts at getting this thing working, returned the wiring back to what it was and gave up. Has any else experienced the same and managed to rectify it, any help gratefully received.
Thanks for the info, tried again to set this up, it just will not register with ST, THINK ILL PROBABLY GIVE UP ON THIS DIMMER UNTIL SOMEONE BRINGS OUT SOMETHING THAT WORKS.
Yep, wired exactly like that, led shows red
Same room as the hub and using the existing switch
Interesting. Can you tell me where that picture is from? I’m no electrician, so I welcome any correction to my own thinking. I had always assumed that there was absolutely no need for a bypass when a neutral was present. What purpose does the bypass give in that setup?
Got it, thank you for your help, I wasn’t catching the b button properly, when I got it where I could see it I could see my mistake.
Also, to the best of my understanding in this scenario you won’t be able to control the module from the switch. You will be able to cut all power to the module (or vice versa) but once the module is off, it’s off and can’t be controlled with smarts. I think the 211 did give some way to send a signal over live, but this was taken away with the 212.
Ways to rectify that would be to have a smart switch at the wall and leave the main switch permanently on, run a wire from S1 in the module back to the wall, or move the module to the wall (after boring out some brickwork and fitting a deeper box).
Edit to add, I also have around 20 of these in my house (UK) working very well indeed with ST.
That is interesting, and I can see a similar diagram in the manual. I’d just thought that with a neutral it changed to an effective relay, and that no current would be present on the switched live of the module. I guess it’s not quite as smart as I thought it was.
The drawing came from Robin Wimborne another community member, I, as you, was under the impression that if you had a neutral then there would be no problem, evidently wrong, however, my problem appeared to end up being not depressing button b properly, it is very awkward, anyway with the kind help of Robin, my unit now works.
Well thanks for adding to my small collection of knowledge!
That is not my understanding, again I am under the impression that the switch will work in the normal way and the fibaro will also work with ST. I do hope that I’m not wrong as there is no way that I am going to start chasing plaster out to run another wire.
The drawing is showing the permanent live from the live loop, it isn’t showing the switch feed and switch wire which Robin alludes to in a previous e mail as connecting to the s1 and sx.
Ok, I think I understand. If you have access to a permanent live up there, then you can remove/use the switch wires to control the module. That’s not an option for everyone, or in every scenario though.
Yes, UK wiring. I’m just thinking of a situation where the presentation for a lamp connection is 2 wires, and the live loop is hidden away somewhere else. If things are done properly I guess that’s uncommon.
Ok, thanks for that.
I’ve left you a picture of my quadruple momentary schneider screwless switch in your thread as a thank you!
(although in retrospect, it appears it was someone else that was looking for them)
I’m having issues with the fibaro dimmer . The device used to work all good and suddenly it stopped responding to any command. The physical toggle switch works good but not the app. The strange thing is that it still reports power correctly on the app so I assume it’s communicating right with the hub but cannot control the load
I tried a soft reset, I tried zwave repair and i even tried to exclude the device but it wouldn’t. All didn’t work.
I also tried to change the device handler to a standard zwave dimmer but still nothing.
Any help ?