hi all,
trying to install the fgd 212 , i wired as per setup and all the light does is stay on all the time
i can see a very feint green light on the fibaro
some pictures of my wiring and how i wired it
red went into L and black went into the far right
I initially had a dimmable bulb in and it flickered so i swapped it out for standard bulb
i had no cycle happen they just stay on all the time
any ideas what i have done wrong?
Looks right. I take it that Red and black used to be across com and 1WAY? Can you confirm that Live is indeed Red and Black the switched return to the lamp?
After connecting the power, does the LED do anything before going dim green. Do you see it glow red for a while first?
yes red was to com on original switch i have reverted back just so i can go to bed later:-)
ah ok - maybe i didn’t do it wrong then - surprised myself - i saw a video and the light was supposed to flash and cycle through a test - i didn’t see this so presumed it was wrong
is the b button the one below the green light on the fibaro ? i thought it was as its the only button i have noticed so far
ill download the handler now and try again
i thought about the flickering - i was using a dimmable IKEA smart bulb - if i use a standard (more watt) bulb i should not need the bypass module as watts should be enough - if i am right in thinking - would be shock - twice in a day
When you say ‘smart bulb’ what do you mean? If you have a ZigBee or such like lamp, then that won’t work, it need to be a ‘dumb’ dimmable lamp.
Edit: just to be clear when I say ‘dumb’ that can still be a electronic lamp like a LED, it just can’t be ‘smart’ IE ZigBee, z-wave or WiFi these must have full voltage 24/7 and then over data they dim up and down. A fibraro dimmer is a phase dimmer so reduces the voltage to reduce the light output.
If a light flickers it is usually because your using a none dimmable lamp and you a stretching the driver to work harder than possible to keep the lamp voltage the same (that’s it’s job). If it hardly dims or jumps from 100% to off this is usually because the load of the lamp is smaller than the dimmers minimum capabilities, that’s when you need a bypass. This is hightend when you don’t have a neutral at the switch, as it gets a potential difference from the higher load of the lamp and so can’t run its self.
I keep a set of good old-fashioned incandescent and halogen bulbs for testing. This way I can see if the low energy bulbs are causing an issue. As Robin says all you need to do after a bulb type change is re-calibrate.
Do you have a old 60w build you can use to prove your setup is correct?
got installed and registered in ST
when i put a lap 4w led bulb in the light stays on all the time really bright and i couldn’t pair and switch did nothing
when i put the ikea 12w smart bulb on it just flickered feintly and no pair and switch did nothing
put in an older led 11w bulb and it was very dimly lit but allowed the pairing as the light on the fgd212 was bright green - prior to this it was feint and flickery and now turns on and off via the switch
just need to find the correct bulb to fit or add the fibaro FGB-212 Bypass 2 Dimmer and use existing bulb
ive ordered the bypass should be here tomorrow
will see how to install and hopefully should be sorted
Got bypass fitted and new 10w bulb
But seems very dim not as bright as before but all works
Any suggestions to improve brightness
If I plug the bulb into normal light socket I get double brightness
think something is not quite right
i can edit the settings - param 13 to 2 click save (not done) and then nothing happens - it says updated and that is all
same for all settings
clicked on the app and tried to change the brightness
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:33:18: info New meter reading: Instantaneous Power: 0.4 W
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:33:18: info New meter reading: Accumulated Energy: 0.00 kWh
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:33:18: error java.lang.NullPointerException: Cannot invoke method and() on null object @line 481 (dimmerEvent)
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:33:18: info Dimmer level is 100%
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:33:18: info Dimmer turned on.
19dad3b1-9076-4e8a-af86-4321b44e22dd 20:36:52: debug Parse returned {{ linkText }} has arrived
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:36:51: info on(): Turning dimmer on.
8a102538-5fc8-45e5-88c4-6cdcac043346 20:36:49: info off(): Turning dimmer off.
dd74fae1-40e5-4db4-ae19-0141d36fb318 20:36:47: trace getPhrases(), state.welcomeIssue = null
i can’t see any sync messages
ah - oops me being special
ornage circle its shows YNC pendin
which i guess means sync pending
ok ill have to try this tomorrow
ok ill update tomorrow when ive tried
should i delete the handler as well?
reset and re-added - had 1- mins spare and missus was ok with lights flickering
lights are full brightness now so looks ok
had to set a few settings in st app, noticed some had red bars down the side
as soon as i set some the app stops responding via alexa and app but turns off on the switch - think i have set the nightvmode wrongly will look into this
thanks for all your patience
changed the protection settings and now all works fine - dimming / alexa
thanks
My Vera recently died so have just installed a new Smart Things hub.
All of my dimmers are Fibaro 1 (FGD211) and my physical switches are toggle. As such, whilst I can operate the lights via the app I can no longer use the actual switches; my wife is about to kill me…
Does anyone know of, or have, a Device handler for Fibaro 1 dimmers? I think all I need to do is change the switch from momentary to toggle? Have tried Z-Wave Tweaker but no dice.
Can anyone help - please?
Thanks
Duncan
