Looks right. I take it that Red and black used to be across com and 1WAY? Can you confirm that Live is indeed Red and Black the switched return to the lamp?
After connecting the power, does the LED do anything before going dim green. Do you see it glow red for a while first?
yes red was to com on original switch i have reverted back just so i can go to bed later:-)
ah ok - maybe i didn’t do it wrong then - surprised myself - i saw a video and the light was supposed to flash and cycle through a test - i didn’t see this so presumed it was wrong
is the b button the one below the green light on the fibaro ? i thought it was as its the only button i have noticed so far
i thought about the flickering - i was using a dimmable IKEA smart bulb - if i use a standard (more watt) bulb i should not need the bypass module as watts should be enough - if i am right in thinking - would be shock - twice in a day
When you say ‘smart bulb’ what do you mean? If you have a ZigBee or such like lamp, then that won’t work, it need to be a ‘dumb’ dimmable lamp.
Edit: just to be clear when I say ‘dumb’ that can still be a electronic lamp like a LED, it just can’t be ‘smart’ IE ZigBee, z-wave or WiFi these must have full voltage 24/7 and then over data they dim up and down. A fibraro dimmer is a phase dimmer so reduces the voltage to reduce the light output.
If a light flickers it is usually because your using a none dimmable lamp and you a stretching the driver to work harder than possible to keep the lamp voltage the same (that’s it’s job). If it hardly dims or jumps from 100% to off this is usually because the load of the lamp is smaller than the dimmers minimum capabilities, that’s when you need a bypass. This is hightend when you don’t have a neutral at the switch, as it gets a potential difference from the higher load of the lamp and so can’t run its self.
I keep a set of good old-fashioned incandescent and halogen bulbs for testing. This way I can see if the low energy bulbs are causing an issue. As Robin says all you need to do after a bulb type change is re-calibrate.
Do you have a old 60w build you can use to prove your setup is correct?
when i put a lap 4w led bulb in the light stays on all the time really bright and i couldn’t pair and switch did nothing
when i put the ikea 12w smart bulb on it just flickered feintly and no pair and switch did nothing
put in an older led 11w bulb and it was very dimly lit but allowed the pairing as the light on the fgd212 was bright green - prior to this it was feint and flickery and now turns on and off via the switch
just need to find the correct bulb to fit or add the fibaro FGB-212 Bypass 2 Dimmer and use existing bulb
But seems very dim not as bright as before but all works
Any suggestions to improve brightness
If I plug the bulb into normal light socket I get double brightness
reset and re-added - had 1- mins spare and missus was ok with lights flickering
lights are full brightness now so looks ok
had to set a few settings in st app, noticed some had red bars down the side
as soon as i set some the app stops responding via alexa and app but turns off on the switch - think i have set the nightvmode wrongly will look into this
thanks for all your patience
changed the protection settings and now all works fine - dimming / alexa
My Vera recently died so have just installed a new Smart Things hub.
All of my dimmers are Fibaro 1 (FGD211) and my physical switches are toggle. As such, whilst I can operate the lights via the app I can no longer use the actual switches; my wife is about to kill me…
Does anyone know of, or have, a Device handler for Fibaro 1 dimmers? I think all I need to do is change the switch from momentary to toggle? Have tried Z-Wave Tweaker but no dice.