SmartThings Community

Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

smartlighting

(Paul Ockenden) #228

The intermittent thing sounds like an RF problem. Have you got another mains powered z-wave device (which should act as a repeater) that you can put half way between your st hub and the light switch?

Ot can you position the fibaro antenna wire differently?


#229

What device handler should you change it to after its detected by ST in the IDE also?

Is there a procedure in the thread on how exactly to add it and set it up? Device handler in IDE etc?

Thanks


(Dan Marson) #230

Interesting, I’ll have a move around with the antenna tomorrow, The Dimmer is in the room above the ST Hub so I wouldn’t have thought it would be a problem. Happy to try anything!

In the IDE I changed the device type to Fibaro Dimmer, and it appears correctly in the iOS app, but still not behaving correctly at the bulb.


(Dan Marson) #231

Update!

@R2D2 I have this working now!

I couldn’t sleep on this and wouldn’t let it beat me.

The problem seemed to be with the device type itself.

@PailOckenden I did move the antenna around within the backbox, but there is limited space in there, so you can only do so much. The device was getting discovered easily so it must be okay.

I read back through this thread and had a look at @rmbhatia device type code, started using this and boom, dumb switch and ST app working as expected.

I made a few changes to the tiles like removing the dimmer slider from view, as I don’t need it.


#232

Can you elaborate please, still learning ST. Which post about the code in here please?

So you had to publish some code in the IDE or something. Sorry for noob questions but I’m not a coder so everything I look on here to help!!

Great to see you got it working though. Hopefully can iron out so mine works straight away!!


#233

Have you had a chance to look at the custom code FAQ yet? It might give you a good overview of how the process works for any device, not just this one.


(Robin) #234

Hi Everyone, I have installed Fibaro Dimmer 2 modules and momentary switches in every room of my home and they are great.
Reading the manual it mentions that these dimmers can be configured to flash when receiving alarm data frames, it goes on to say “Alarm data-frames are sent by devices that are system sensors (e.g.,
flood sensors, smoke detectors, motion detectors, etc.)”

Is there any way to send alarm data frames via custom commands in the device handler / rule machine?
I have played around with some of the following but nothing seems to work:

zwave.basicV1.basicSet(value: 0x71)

zwave.notificationV3.notificationSet(notificationType: 2, notificationStatus: 1)

zwave.commands.alarmv2.Alarmset.ZWAVE_ALARM_TYPE_SMOKE

zwave.commands.alarmv2.Alarmset(zwaveAlarmStatus: 0xFF, zwaveAlarmType: 1)

zwave.commands.alarmv2.Alarmset(zwaveAlarmStatus: 0, zwaveAlarmType: 1)

Please help, for now I am using another custom command to turn on / off each dimmer several times with a delay between. This works well on one module at a time, but gets laggy and un-responsive when sending to multiple dimmers at the same time.


#235

Would the Fibaro FGD-212 be ok if I installed it this way…

Rather than getting a bigger back box as I have a stud wall, I removed the back box and where it’s mounted I could “shove” it above the back box, extend the required wires with “choccy” block and poke what’s required back into the back box.

Would it still be able to communicate with the ST hub like this on another floor?

I can’t fit a bigger back box in here with the way the stud wall is and strut across to fix the back box to.

Thanks


#236

My understanding is that this can compromise fire safety.

Instead, there are two good options.

One) find a different place on the circuit to put the relay. This is often at the ceiling rose. You may have more space to work with there.

Two) use a box extender that extends the box forward rather than back. These can be made to look quite nice with the appropriate face plate. These are often listed as a “surface mount pattress box” or as an “extension collar.” They come in a variety of colors and materials, as well as different depths. Don’t get a metal one, or you won’t be able to get signal through.




#237

Oh don’t like the sound of this, why is it a fire hazard? Does it have to be in a metal box?

Extending out is a no go afraid, they are flush mounted to start with, where this switch is also in the middle of a wall with nothing but this, so even if did extend out it would be an eye sore.

I can’t access the ceiling rose, I did have an AeoTec relay that required a neutral and tried but it’s all hidden so sent back, heard this didn’t need a neutral so was happy…until now…

What’s the risk, or requirements, maybe another small box if I can access stud wall?


(Paul) #238

You could install the fibaro in the stud wall void. but it should be put into a box of some kind. It might fit in a Choc box.
With sheathed cable between them.

The main proper constraint is that the connections on it need to be enclosed, and you can’t have unprotected insulated conductors between them. Ie sheathed etc.

To roughly some. Unless its a multi dwelling unit with a compartmented escape route the other side. fire propagation reg’s through stud wall don’t apply.

Putting it in a box also resolves any other issues. Ie fire risk due to exposed connections that could be bridged. etc


(Paul) #239

It can go in a plastic box. which is better due to z-wave signal.

You could also cut the noggin out deeper that the box is fitted to. to allow a deeper box.

Or if it is just a really small bit of timber knock it out the way and fit a dry line box.

If the timber runs vertically, that it is fitted to. best not to cut it without someone looking at it.
generally, horizontal pieces are not that important once all the plasterboards are fixed to the wall. Unless its on a plasterboard joint, which is unlikely at switch height.


#240

I wouldn’t put uninsulated wires between them no, I’ll be using some extra twin and earth, and sheathing on the earth.

This is my house, it’s just the way the wall is, this room is backed onto the hall and it’s a hollow plasterboard wall.

The timer runs horizontally, but that’s what the back box is fixed to and it’s a flush wall switch.

So basically it has to be enclosed inside a box of some sorts, either the original back box, or another box. Why though if the cables to/from it are all proper size, insulated etc?

Thanks


(Paul) #241

They won’t be were they terminate into the fibaro unit, you’ll have to strip the sheath back.
And the terminals are exposed.
Any box will do. That’s not flammable. It should just be enclosed.

Drilling the timber out with a spade bit so you can fit a deeper box. Is probably the better way to go about it. Better for maintenance etc. going forward. The timber will most likely just be a noggin with very little structural benefit.


(Robin) #242

I haven’t figured out how to send alarm frames from the SmartThings hub / device handlers yet, starting to think it’s not possible, but I have found a decent workaround that I wanted to share.

The Fibaro Universal Sensor module can send alarm frames!

By closing the sensor wires an alarm frame gets sent directly from the sensor module to all of my Fibaro Dimmers, bypassing the hub and starting all my lights flashing. When re-opening the wires it sends an alarm cancel frame halting the flashing and returning the Fibaro dimmers to their previous states.

As the Fibaro Sensor cannot act on commands from the hub (it only sends it’s state) I have uses a Fibaro Relay to toggle the sensor wires on/off thus allowing me to toggle the flashing on/off from the SmarThings app / rule machine etc.

The Sensor module will only send alarm frames when Parameters 5, 6 and 13 are setup correctly (see manual).

If anyone wants more detail on this let me know.


#243

Got this reply from vesternet support about putting it in a stud wall, no box…

“You don’t have to install the Dimmer module in the back box. You can install it in the stud partition. so long as you do this safely and make sure the wires are secure and can’t be touched easily then it will be fine”

However this from Fibaro support…

“Fibaro Dimmer 2 should be installed in wall switch boxes of dimensions allowing for installation, conforming to provisions of applicable regulations.
Check the national regulations for this type of installation.”


#244

@JDRoberts, @John_Crighton: gentlemen, I managed to solve the problem and you can now react to double, triple taps, S1 and S2 taps of Fibaro. Check it out here: Fibaro Dimmer Double Click Action


(Bob) #245

Not sure if this is the right place but here goes.
I have just installed one of these but because of the wiring for my kitchen unit lights, I have had to wire it up so that when the light switch for the unit lights is turned on, it supplies the power which then powers up the Fibaro dimmer.
Not ideal but it seems to work OK.
What i want it to do is when the power is provided to the dimmer that it goes into an ON state and turns the lights on and leaves them on.
At present it turns the lights on and they flashe while it associates again and then turn the lights off.
Hope this all makes sense.


#246

Further to my previous post about adding capability to handle scene changes in Fibaro Dimmers, I have now also added all configuration parameters of both dimmers to preferences of each device handler. So no need to fiddle with those in the code anymore. If you use my device handlers you will be able to set all parameters you need directly in the SmartThings app. I included all configurable parameters that were mentioned in the manuals.

Here is the link to the repository: https://github.com/hajar97/FibaroDimmers


(Chris Petzny) #247

Hello, I tried using your Dimmer 1 device handler, but on changing parameters and tapping Done, it always asks me to fill in all the required fields, even though I have filled them all in.

Am I missing something?